The care and feeding of the stropping wheel

[CleanCut]

Elsewhere I posted that my instruction booklet recommended that I use 14mL of light oil on a new leather wheel (T7). I don't recall a recommendation in the booklet for additional oil to rejuvenate the leather. My leather wheel gets infrequent use so, presumably, the oil evaporates and leaves behind a concentrate of paste, spent grinding particles and steel burr. It is black. So, how do I refresh (rejuvenate) the leather?

[grepper]

I've had that happen to mine.  The wheel turned shiny and hard.  I did a very light sanding with coarse sandpaper.  Not enough to actually remove any of the leather, but just enough to break the glaze.  Then I put oil on a piece of paper towel and ran it around the wheel. 

The paper towel worked very well to distribute the oil evenly over the surface rather trying to drool it over the surface.

You don't want to hurt the surface or remove any leather, just enough to break the crusty cement. 

I don't know if this is recommended, but it worked great.

Black is good.  It is normal.

[CleanCut]

Thanks grepper, seems a good way to go. Those who care for leather (saddles, boots) may use leather soap!

[grepper]

Yea, in a way the saddle soap reference is about right.

What worked best for me was to get the leather ever so slightly rough, then apply just enough oil to make the leather slightly abosrbant. Supple on the surface but still dry and absorbant under the surface. (Seems I'm using the word "slightly" a lot).

What you don't want to do is to apply so much oil that you end up with a slimy rubber tire feel to the leather.  If you try to apply Tormek magic honing compound, (MHC), to that surface, when you press the edge tool against it, all that will happen is that the MHC will slide around on the surface rather than being held in place by the leather and fulfilling it's destiny as an actual abrasive to steel.

I think it's a cool feeling when the wheel is cutting correctly.  Kind of a smooth, grabby, resistance. I can imagine what's happing at the surface when the tool is pressed against the wonderful Tormek 1-3 micron abrsave MHC adhered to the supple yet slightly clingy leather surface.

[Rob]

Like you I find after prolonged abstinence the strop gets a little stiff.  I just run the bevel of a wide chisel across it with reasonable pressure and then reverse it as you would when honing.  I find that breaks off lots of tiny particles of caked on detritus and kind of frees the leather underneath.  When you then apply the compound, that has all the creamy, oily conditioning agents in it to set the right texture of the wheel....and of course the abrasive.

So no oil for me.  I find the stuff in the compound does it just fine.  And sure my wheel is black....they all are...... after a few strops that tan colour'd leather look goes very quickly indeed.

[Rem]

Hello, all.  New guy here.   I received my new T8 about a week ago and have been playing with it.  A quick quesiton about the honing wheel surface ... to oil or not to oil??   I oiled.  Anyway, can someone give me a brief but as descriptive as possible as to what the surface of the leather honing wheel should feel like when it's ready for use?   Mine is pretty rough feeling.  Is this normal, or should it feel smooth to the touch?    Thanks very much.    Rem

[Ken S]

 Welcome to the forum, Rem.

I don't have a definitive answer. I would suggest you follow the beginning chisel procedure ( the permanently top topic on this section of the forum). If you spend enough repetitive time on the parts of sharpening a chisel, you will learn a lot. Sound, feel, and appearance are important. When you become proficient with coarse and fine grinding, you will soon develop a feeling for the leather surface which helps good polishing. It can be a bit of a Goldilocks experience; you will also learn what does not work well. That's one reason the learning chisel experience is important; no customer is waiting for your results. You can take the time you need and repeat the process.

Be skeptical of anyone with a pristine tan colored leather honing wheel.

Do not be shy about asking questions; that's how we all learn.

Ken

[Rem]

Thanks for your response, Ken.   Much appreciated.  I've read quite a bit of the various "oil" threads.   I'm pretty sure I've put enough oil on the leather.  So I'll hide and watch for a while.  I don't have any chisels so I'm sharpening every knife on the place.  There definitely is a technique.  And I might even be getting it.  We'll see if I can cut it.  My wife is a professional seamstress, and keeping her scissors sharp is what got me into this whole sharpening situation.  Let's just hope I don't destroy them in the process.   Thanks again.  R

[Ken S]

Rem,

I watched an experienced Tormek demonstrator break in a leather honing wheel using just Tormek Honing Compound. It worked, although the result was a bit "dusty". My point is that while there may be an optimum 14ml of oil, as recommended with the included tube ( by the way, an outstanding idea!), there is some latitude.

At the risk of sounding pushy, your new T8 came with an SE-77 square edge jig. That is the expensive part of the chisel program. If you google "irwin 3/4" blue chip chisels" you will find them for reasonable prices. ($6.81). I highly suggest splurging and getting two. (I have five and could use a couple more.)

DO NOT be tempted to take the quick path with whatever chisels your local hardware store happens to sell. Irwin blue chip chisels are not prime chisels. They are inexpensive, have enough blade length to be usable, and have a properly ground back ground crisply with the sides. Shiny chisels with pretty radiused sides require an extreme amount of work to grind flat, or they will not be sharp. Do it right; use blue chips.

Give yourself plenty of time to get to know your chisels. Once you really master the 3/4" chisels, you can learn to sharpen other edges. Be prepared to pass through a learning curve.

Enjoy the ride!

Ken

[Rem]

I will do that and thanks for the advice re: chisels.  However, I live in northern Canada, so the cost of the same chisel to me will likely be about $87.93.  But, hey ....  I'm used to that nonsense. 

I've actually been wanting a basic set of chisels, so if I can get the Old Bear (my lovely wife) to go along with this, I'll getter done.    Thanks again for the tip.  R

[Ken S]

Oops....... I forgot you lived north of the North Pole. You might check with Big Bear Tools. I have had good dealings with them, and they are in Western Canada, which might reduce the cost of shipping via dog sled.

Ken

PS A simple set of three or chisels goes a long way. No need for a Compleat set.

[jeffs55]

If you are north of the north pole, are you actually south of the north pole or in the air above the north pole? Inquiring minds want to know.

[Rem]

Well, the magnetic north pole moves around a bit.  So it is possible to live north of it.  The geographic north pole is pretty stationary.  Fortunately, I'm still a long way from either.   I am in Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, Canada.  But it's still a long way north, and the freight companies still like to stick it to us.  But I checked and not so bad.  I am just now corresponding with Amazon.ca as some of their info didn't make much sense to me.  I'm sure we can chisel something out.   Thanks again, and for your concern regarding us remote, isolated dwellers.  Winter is settling in soon.  Time to put the motorcycle away and tune up the Kubota.  But I digress .........  I just turned 70 and I do that a lot.   Lucky to find my way home these days.   Thanks.   RR

[Ken S]

In Maine there is a saying that they have "ten months of winter and two months of rough sledding". 

Ken

[jeffs55]

I will do that and thanks for the advice re: chisels.  However, I live in northern Canada, so the cost of the same chisel to me will likely be about $87.93.

Just a thought, it might be cheaper for someone in the US to buy the item and then ship it to you. Of course it might be hard to figure out what is best because of the potential customs fees and VAT, if any. As I said, just a thought.....................