SVH-320 issue

[thomaspancak]

Hello,
I bought my T8 a few months ago and I was able to sharpen my chisels and handplane blade easily and efficiently. Then I tried to sharpen my 310mm jointer blade and there came the issue...
I first used the TT50 to flatten my SB250 then I set the angle (40°) and clamped my knife into the SVH320. Then I lowered the system in order to put the bevel onto the stone without space between the knife holder and the SVH's guide. I checked it was correct coloring the bevel with a black marker and rolling the stone by hand so that my black line was erased. Till that point I was happy...
Then I turned both knobs about 3 or 4 units to set the depht. Doing that, by the way, the sharpenning will start from the heel of the bevel which is not advised to be done in the manual (useless and long) but how to do differently ? I don't know.
I now move the SVH back and forth and the knife start to be grinded (from the heel of the bevel !). But then, about half of the bevel, the process stop whatever pressure I put or grade the stone. And there is still a gap between holder and support.
Moreover, the stone itself stop turning even with light pressure and I have to hold the blade so that it can restart !
Then I get mad and frustrated...
At this point, my knife is grinded on both ends (about 4cm) but I still have my black marker line on the rest of it. About 2mm from the bevel 'line'. And I spent so much time that my knife is rusty.
Please, could you give me instructions so that I can achieve my sharpenning and be happy again.

I hope my message is clear enough even if my french english is not really accurate.
Cordialement,

[Even]

Hello.
I think you've done everything right, but I think 4 stops on the micro adjuster is too much.
I lower it until it touches the stone as I tighten, then I lower 1 to 2 stops on the micro adjuster.

The SB250 has tendencies to glaze up, and the glaze must be removed to make it cut again. This can be done with the TT-50, but I prefer and use the diamond plate at 80gritt.

You also say that the stone stops even under light pressure, this must be something wrong, remove the LA-220 and clean the drive wheel, possibly the engine will slip there.

Greetings Even

[RichColvin]

Thomas,

You should contact Tormek support. I believe that their email is Support@Tormek.com.

Kind regards,
Rich

[Ken S]

Rich,

The email address for support is: support@tormek.se

Ken

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Thomas.

I have never used my planer jig, however, many principles are common to different areas of Tormek sharpening.
You are wise to true (and dress) your grinding wheel just before sharpening planer blades.
I agree with Even that you may be taking too deep of a cut. Just like with the TT-50, I would start with very light cuts (one microadjust or lighter to start). I recommend you begin with a mental objective of becoming familiar with your planer jig, instead of aiming to complete sharpening. Once the jig becomes intuitive, your speed will increase.
Adding 1:25 Anti Corrosion Compound (Tormek ACC-150) should eliminate any rusting. It has uses beyond the diamond wheels.
I will let others with more experience with the SB-250 comment on the glazing situation. Rich Colvin's 80 grit diamond stone idea sounds promising.

Please keep us posted with your progress.

Ken

[thomaspancak]

Hello,
Thank you for your answers. I will first try to fix the problem of the stone stopping under pressure. I noticed that the SB250 glazes up quickly. Once this problem fixed, I will try again with 1 or 2 stops on the micro adjuster. I wrote to Tormek support yesterday.
Thank you again, I will let you know the result. I will probably retry this week. For now I just sharpenned my knives by hand on my DMC stones but the result is far from wet shaving my arm's hairs...
Sharpening appears to be an 'art' and I realize it needs time and practise. I'm stubborn and I want my knives to cut...

Kind regards,

Thomas

[Ken S]

Stubbornness, tempered with logic, is a good trait for a sharpener.

Ken

[thomaspancak]

Hi,

I've had a busy last week so I could not retry to sharpen my knives. Nevertheless, I could fix the problem I had with the wheel stopping when grading it. Thank you Even, I removed the LA220 and clean the driving wheel which becomes slippy when wet... Then I could grade again.

I will let you know when I can shave my arm.

Kind regards,

Thomas

[Ken S]

Thomas,

Being busy is not necessarily bad. Using a Tormek well is a combination of mastering several basic functions. You used your time well in cleaning and slightly abrading your rubber drive wheel instead of trying to rush through sharpening. You can now move drive wheel slippage from your problem list to your mastered basic function list. Should it ever reappear, you recognize the symptoms and know how to correct it.

You are building your Tormek skill foundation.

Ken