different paths to a common destination

[Ken S]

Sharpening knives with a Tormek reminds me of one of my favorite Mark Twain lines: "Man is the only animal with the one true religion, all seven of them!"

"Orthodox" Tormek knife sharpening is done using jigs, with the SG grinding wheel moving into the blade. This is the method described in the handbook.

Herman uses the same SG grinding wheel also moving toward the blade. However, he uses the HK-50 small knife platform jig he designed and built. While this jig was originally designed for small blades, an area that Tormek had no jig to handle at the time, Herman has also sharpened a machete with his jig.

Steve uses his Tormek with the SB wheel moving in the opposite direction (moving away from the blade) He rarely uses the jigs, having taught himself to work very skillfully freehand.

We also have several methods of setting bevel angles.

Two questions come to mind:

1) Which method is correct?

2) Which should a beginner learn?

I think a beginner should learn the orthodox Tormek method. Once proficient with it, the beginner is in a much better place to decide if he wishes to explore other paths.

Which is best? I do not believe there is a simple cut and dry answer. I do believe that the fluent Tormek user can call upon several methods well known when he feels they are appropriate.

I welcome thoughts.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

I think we are currently discussing this, in several different sections, when discussing tapers.

[Ken S]

That's true. However, setting bevel angles is one of the primary functions of any sharpening, and should be approached from different ways depending on the tool.

Ken

[RichColvin]

Two questions come to mind:

1) Which method is correct?

2) Which should a beginner learn?

I think a beginner should learn the orthodox Tormek method. Once proficient with it, the beginner is in a much better place to decide if he wishes to explore other paths.

Ken, in one of the Fine Woodworking podcasts, they were discussing sharpening (of chisels).  There was a discussion about picking and choosing methods.  A strong opinion was expressed (and supported by everyone on the show) that :

When you are learning something new, first master it using the method taught.  You can then move on to a new method if you wish.  But if you do, but then master the new method before moving on to an even different one.  It is only after you have mastered a few methods that you can make your own.

An example of this would be something like sharpening of plane blades.  The folks at FWW do advocate sharpening the plane's primary bevel on a Tormek as it is fast.  However, they also advocate sharpening the secondary (or micro) bevel on Japanese waterstones (up to 8,000 or higher grit).  Hence, the mixing of methods.

I'm not a user of wood planes, so I can't speak to the validity of this approach.  But, I do believe their argument to master a method is the right one.

The Tormek method is one that :

• is time tested,
• has world-wide acceptance, and
• is a repeatable approach.

Repeatability is a big deal.  This cannot be stressed enough, so I will say it again.  Repeatability is a really big deal.  If you get a tool that is sharpened a certain way you will learn to use it in a manner that matches the edge.  As you progress, you will start developing muscle memory in this way of work.  Then you have mastered the tool and you can start thinking about the art.  Resharpening the tool should not require the relearning of how to use the tool.

For the shooting sports, a wise coach in trap shooting has said :

        Those who think do not know; those who know do not think.

When you know what sharp is and how to get it, you don't think about how to get that done.  You adjust according to parameters such as steel type, use for the tool, etc.  But you are not having to re-learn how to sharpen every time. 

Master the Tormek method and you'll go a long way in your woodworking.  Then, you can determine if further honing is required ...

Kind regards,
Rich

[RichColvin]

Oh, and by the way, this past week I went to use a fractional drill bit and found it woefully dull.  So, I took 4 evenings last week and sharpened them all using the DBS-22 Drill Bit Sharpening Jig. 

I started at the ½" one, and went down from there.  The first few went slowly, taking 20 minutes or so.  And somewhere around the 5th one I had to go back to re-grind the primary bevel as I had over-ground the secondary bevel.  But, I persevered and got better with each one.  By the time I got around to the ¼" ones, I was sharpening each one in 5 minutes or less.

During the process, I came across a couple that I had already sharpened with the DBS-22.  Re-sharpening those was about one or two minutes each.  Definitely repeatable.

My confidence in using the DBS-22 is greatly improved, and now I think I can attack my metric bits and complete them in a much faster manner.  Alas, there are also numbered and lettered bits after that.

[Ken S]

Interesting posts, Rich.

I happen to have been one of the Fine Woodworking charter subscribers from the last millinium. I understand the thinking behind their micro bevels with 8000 grit (or above) water stones. While this is heroic, and I do not doubt the utility of it for some purposes, I also think it is overkill for some of the more mundane purposes. Leonard Lee thought 4000 was quite adequate for most purposes.

I used to sharpen with the Tormek and finish with water stones. That is certainly not a bad way to work. The "heavy work" is done with the Tormek. I finally decided that my lack of skill with the leather honing wheel did not necessarily make water stones a superior method. I am leaving the jury out. My honing technique has improved, however, my need for sharp chisels has diminished.

I confess I have a tendency to "improve" something before I master it. I am working on outgrowing this.

I think you have found the secret of success with the DBS-22, practice. Once mastered, it is a fine tool, and reasonably quick. Most of us could go through our whole lives delighted with four facet very sharp bits using only the standard settings. (I might say the same thing about the SVD-186.)

Keep up the good work.

Ken

[Stickan]

Hi,
As Ken and Rich write, when using a Tormek, learn how to use it with the handbook close to you. Don't read it all at once, but read about the jig you are using to sharpen the tool. After a while when you get to understand the method you discover shortcuts and use them. I have had demos and shown things and got comments that "that's not in the handbook" but after explaining why the user picks up new techniques.

Best,
Stig

[Ken S]

Stig,

Good comment. I refer to the handbook often. I have acquired several over the years, and like to keep at least one handy. Both when at home or traveling, I often arise very early (around 4am). Combined with a cup of coffee, the handbook is a pleasant and informative early morning read.

I do not feel the handbook is the end all resource. It certainly could use some updating, especially with the new grinding wheels. However, I do find it offers a very solid foundation knowledge in using the Tormek. I find this foundation knowledge invaluable in pursuing my own ideas. The whole kenjig concept is easily traced to the handbook and the Tormek method of sharpening turning gouges and skews. A Tormek user handicaps himself by not having a good working knowledge of the handbook.

Ken

[Rob]

The Tormek Handbook is one of the great differentiators about the whole Tormek concept.  Name me one other manufacturer that goes to the trouble of publishing that much "training" with their product where that product exists in the consumer market.  It's on a par with car manuals :-)

I have my share of criticism of the Tormek but their published information isn't one of them, truly outstanding.  Literally in a class of it's own.

[Ken S]

I agree, Rob. The Tormek handbook is in a class of its own and quite commendable. I would just like it to be even more commendable, especially with the SB and SG grinding wheels. The essential handbook was written many years ago. It is solid and well done. It needs more than a few sentences about some of the new developments.

On a dream level, I would love to see it become more interactive in the download version, like ebooks.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

When I bought mine, used, I scanned the whole book and looked for tools that I had.  Then I would go through, after grabbing them, and try to learn them individually.

[Ken S]

Good thought.

Ken

I still think the humble 3/4" chisel is a good learning tool.