centering with SVM jigs

[Ken S]

The logical, easy way to center bevel grinding is with the self centering KJ jigs. However, for someone who only sharpens one or two very thick hunting knives and who has only non auto centering SVM jigs, Wolfgang suggests another method.
He mentions it in the KJ knife jigs online class linked here, starting at just after 6:00:

https://www.youtube.com/live/JFHqQg5wZEg?si=P0SphynZhYKs7LEJ

Wolfgang also mentions another reference to this in earlier lectures, although I have not been able to locate these references. (If anyone can find them, please post a link.)

The correction is just to take extra grinding strokes on the fixed jaw side of the knife bevel until both sides match.

Ken

[Para Steve]

Hi Ken,

I watched their knife sharpening video and ordered what I thought was the correct jig but it's actually a Tormek KJ-45 Centering Knife Jig.  It's not arrived yet but from the pictures it doesn't have the fine adjustment knob that the one in the video does.   Do you know if I've got a revised one or just plain wrong one?

Once again thank you for help and guidance. 

Steve

[Ken S]

Steve,

My opinion may not be popular with many forum members. However, The KJ-45 you ordered is the only current model. The end stop is non adjustable, which makes it somewhat slower to use. For users on a farmers market schedule (100 knives in four hours), this could be a handicap. However, there are both pros and cons with the new jig.

How many knives do you plan to sharpen? I suspect that most of us, including me, might sharpen no more than a dozen, probably two or three times per year. Especially when the KJ-45 is used with the new KS-123 set up tool, the time per knife should be close and not a problem. The KJ-45, especially when used with the new KS-123 setting tool, work very well together. Both are reasonably priced, around $50US each. Unless you sharpen thin flexible fillet knives longer than 160mm, you won't need the longer KJ-140 jig (If at some point you decide you want one, you can always purchase it separately).

My suggestion would be to use the KJ-45 jig you have ordered and plan to get a KS-123 soon. In the meantime, you can use the marker method. Be sure to watch the online classes on both of these.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Para Steve]

Thank you Ken,

It is a delight to be so encouraged! I will keep you posted and, yes, for now just a handful of knives and non that need the longer/wider flexible knife jig.   Have watched and understood the videos, just need to get time to practice.   

Next is to research benefits between Japanese and Diamond stones as can only afford the one. 

Steve

[Ken S]

Steve,

One of the rare opportunities I have had has been getting to know and work with Stig Reitan. For many years, Stig was one of Tormek's top demonstrators. I continue to watch and recommend the online class with Stig. Stig has a real love of knives. His wife is a gourmet cook and he keeps their Japanese knives in top condition.

Being retired, I was able to spend the weekend in Hartville during the big shows. I spent almost the entire shows observing and talking with Stig. When he was busy, I watched. During slow periods, I had plenty of questions for him. It was wonderful one on one training. As his sharpening skills developed, his technique intensified and simplified. Among other things, he essentially stopped using his 4000 grit Japanese grinding wheel. He became quite expert using the SG-250 with the grading stone and the leather honing wheel with PA-70 honing compound. This is to explain why I would recommend not being in a hurry to purchase the 4000 grit wheel.

The diamond wheels have some unique advantages, as does the SG. The SG can be easily graded to cover a range of grits. If it is damaged or needs to be refreshed, the TT-50 can restore it. Using the KS-123 makes compensating for wheel diameter changes a very minor inconvenience. The SG can also be reshaped with radiused corners to sharpen concave knives.

If you do decide to switch to diamond wheels, I suggest doing so while your SG has useful life remaining. Even if diamond wheels become your primary wheels, there are times when the SG is the first choice.

Ken

[RichColvin]

I use the KJ-45 with the KS-123 and I find it to be a quick setup to get sharpening.

[Para Steve]

Once again I'm indebted.   The stone has been used by a wood turner and had a dip in the middle.  I've got a new tip for the TT50 as it was so worn he'd been grinding the tip mount too. That or somehow doing it free hand and dropping off the edge of the stone.   

Anyway, it's true now and I graded it before attempting my first knife.  It's sharp but not pretty!  You can see the dip I somehow developed in the main length of the blade.  It didn't have a 'bevel' and the WM200 suggested it was quite acute at about 15°

I'm just glad I chose the cheapest IKEA knife we have to try first.   

[tgbto]

Hello Steve,

This overgrind in the middle is common with a lot of knife sharpening setups where you can easily spend more time sharpening the middle section than the heel and tip. It is especially pronounced on the Tormek which removes metal fast (the downside of fast sharpening). You will have to learn to focus on spending more time/pressure in those area that see the stone less often.

Do you sharpen going back and forth, or only from heel to tip ?

Also, rounding out the shoulders of the stone helps a lot.

Lastly, it is important to care about the way you lay down your knife: make sure it is not tilted towards the tip when you approach the stone. For safety's sake, I prefer to tilt it ever so slightly towards the heel.

Cheers,

Nick.