Long shipwright and timber framing chisel sharpening

[Haitham]

Hello,

I have a couple of long shipwright and timberframing chisels. Awesome chisels made in Petrograd though.
I'm a bit concerned about if using the original setup or if I have to buy the US-430 Extended Universal Support to move the se-77 jig away from the wheel and balance it better so that the fulcrum would be around 15 or more cm from the wheel. My other concern is of what is the maximum blade thickness that the jig could accomodate. Otherwise could I just lay the back of the chisel directly on the support rod
and slide it freehand? Like I would do on a normal grinder

Anyway these are the chisels. The middle of the blade is a bit rough on the back because it has the hammer textures. But still parallel. I might scratch the rod though. Maybe I can find a little copper pipe to slide on it and stop with the se-77 lateral stop knobs.

https://petrograd-tools.com/id/stameska-plotnickaya-petrograd-model-vyatka-38mm-11791.html

https://petrograd-tools.com/id/stameska-plotnickaya-petrograd-model-istra-25mm-18058.html

First has a blade and overall length of 300mm - 550mm
Second has a blade and overall length of 350mm - 480mm

Thank you
Haitham

[RichColvin]

The distance of the SE-77 from the grindstone is based on the angle of the edge being sharpened, not the tool length.  At 30 to 35 degrees, the distance is not much.  

[Haitham]

Sorry i haven't explained myself. The problem is, being the tool too long, when I position it in the jig with so short distance from stone to jig and so long blade and handle remaining behind I have a lot of weight on the jig and if I use the multibase with the extended support I'm able to balance the weight of the chisel. Because half the weight will be put on the Waterstones. The other half right on the jig

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Haitham.

Very long chisels can often be removed from their wooden handles for sharpening or more compact storage. They are called socket chisels. Your sash mortise chisel appears to be this construction. Tapping the side of the wooden handle should release the blade of the chisel. Sharpening just the blade is less clumsy than sharpening the long assembled chisel. After sharpening, tapping the bottom of the reassembled chisel on your bench should hold it together. (If the handle is still loose, a kittle hair spray has enough tack to hold it together.)

Your first chisel appears to be tang construction and probably cannot be disassembled. The US-430 is primarily for larger knives; however, it may also be useful with your long chisels. Your long chisels are similar to "very narrow cleaver knives". The longer projection should work with the taller legs of the
US-430.

Regarding the thickness of your chisels, if they are too thick to fit in the SE-77 (or the SE-76), they will probably fit in the long discontinued SVH-60 jig. These are only available now used. Here is a current link on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/135067024062

I remember a very similar forum discussion many years ago with forum member Ionut. He had a thick "pig sticker" mortise chisel which was too thick for the SE-76 jig. The newer square edge jigs tighten from below. The SVH-60 tightens from above, and has more adjustment room. SVH-60 jigs are available occasionally on ebay.

Keep us posted.

Ken

[Haitham]

Ken S. Thank you very much for the useful information.

I will buy that used jig of course because I have some mortise chisels with beefy
blades and I also think it's a good overall accessory.

Anyway I was thinking if instead of buying the extended support I could alternatively
use the standard support along with the multi base mb-102 to distance the jig from the wheel

[Ken S]

Haitham,

What equipment do you have presently?

The MB-102 as a frontal vertical base is primarily for grinding and honing with the grinding wheel turning away from the tool. The multibase function is primarily to allow flat grinding using the side of the diamond wheels.

I am reluctant to see anyone purchase equipment which will not do what they want.
With that in mind, I recommend some study time with the Tormek online classes.

Ken

[Haitham]

Ken S thank you for your honesty.

I didn't notice it has to be mounted on the othe side in
such a way that the wheel will spin against you. That wouldn't
be a real problem though, because I sharpen my chisels either on the push or the pull stroke. The idea was to make the distance from the wheel more adjustable
like you would see in this Tormek class that I link below:

https://youtu.be/uNupoAP5gAU?t=759

What do you think?
Thanks
HJ

[Ken S]

HJ,

The MB-102 is a direct descendant of the MB-100. It has all functions of the MB-100, plus two holes which also make it a FVB. Tormek combined these two tools at essentially the cost of either one. Be sure and watch the online class for the
MB-100. At about 9:00, it covers mounting the jig in either position. Here is a link:

https://www.youtube.com/live/3r_1mZ9XjIs?si=kgulycw3geEc3Xm8

Ken

[Haitham]

Thank you very much for all the support Ken S.

I will see what to do then

Regards,
Haitham