Another stuck EZYlock (on a T-2000)

[grymoire]

I'm having a similar problem to the previous post - my EZYlock is frozen onto the shaft.

I have a T-2000 and "upgraded" to the EZYlock when it was announced - it was just a replacement nut upgrade.

It's frozen to the shaft now. I have three stones, and when I tried to swap stones - I was unable to free the EZYlock. There is visible rust in the threads. I have tried everything I can think of to remove the EZYlock - including putting on a 12-inch pipe wrench and whacking the wrench handle with a hammer. I removed the entire shaft from the machine - and my black carbide stone is still stuck onto the shaft.

I think the problem is that the T-2000 did not have a stainless steel shaft, and my "upgrade" kept the same shaft. I don't think I had the option of a stainless steel shaft at the time.It was probably 8-10 years ago when I got the EZYlock washer/nut.

The only think I can think of is to buy a new shaft, and when I want to switch from the black stone - I have to replace the entire shaft to change to the standard or Japanese stone.

I don't know if I can hammer the shaft to knock it through my black carbide wheel. I suspect the shaft diameter is reduced around the wheel and it would crack the wheel.

[Ken S]

I just emailed support about this. I will post the reply when I hear back. In the meantime:

You say you upgraded to EZYlock when it was first announced and that it was just a replacement nut upgrade. Tormek switched to stainless steel shafts in 2006. My 2009 vintage T7 came with one of these stainless shafts. It had the same M12 right hand threads as the regular steel shafts. These right hand thread shafts usually required a tap of a wrench and hammer for first loosening and final tightening.

The EZYlock uses a more coarse left hand thread. It requires no hammer and wrench. It was incompatable with the original right hand threads.

If you just replaced the rusted nut with a stainless nut, and the threads matched, you only fixed half of the problem. Stainless steel will rust in the presence of rust, as in rust from the shaft.

I replaced my original stainless shaft with the EZYlock kit. The kit should fix your rusted shaft. You will also find the EZYlock very convenient for changing wheels.

Ken

[grymoire]

Yes you are right. I did get a new shaft with the upgrade. (I found the old rusty shaft).

I still have a SB wheel stuck solid onto the shaft. I can order a new shaft so I can switch to other wheels.

I'd rather find a way to remove the EZYLock. I've used heavy pipe wrenches to budge the nut but no luck. I don't want to chew up the shaft with the wrenches.  I am considering grinding a couple of flat spot on the shaft - somewhere - just so I can grab the shaft with a crescent wrench.

[Ken S]

Tormek support (support@tormek.se) or (info@tormek.com) in the US has solved more EZYlock problems that the entire forum combined will ever see. Contact support; their stellar service is one of the things which makes Tormek a cut above.

Ken

[Tormek T-8]

Tormek support (support@tormek.se) or (info@tormek.com) in the US has solved more EZYlock problems that the entire forum combined will ever see. Contact support; their stellar service is one of the things which makes Tormek a cut above.

Ken

I am going to tell you a little about an EzyLock problem that I had. And Tormek in the USA was not able to help.
The EzyLock was seized to the shaft on my T-8. I had tried the various wrenches I owned. After no success there and recognizing a cost of almost $300 to solve my problem I started researching Magnetic Induction Heating Coils. You should do some research on interwebz, but these electric devices (sometimes called Flameless Torch) will heat up ferrous metal to 800 degrees F in less than 2 minutes.
My T-8 has the stainless steel shaft and SS EzyLock. So NO RUST. But a large amount of the grindstone grit had lodged behind the EzyLock nut. And the threads in the shaft and EzyLock were jammed up with the sandy stuff.
After a few heat and cool cycles, including some penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench), I poured a little bit of ATF (tranny fluid) on the end of the shaft. After one more heat cycle I was able to muscle the EL off with my Knipex waterpump pliers.
The induction heat device cost over $200 on Amazon. Made in China, but already used for another impossibly stuck nut.
Hope this helps some Forum users!! 🤞😊

[Ken S]

T8,

Interesting idea using Magnetic Induction Heating Coils. I have used a heat gn to separate two steel parts on my belt grinder. It's less high tech; however it works.

I am curious about the abrasive grinding dust you found. When you start a sharpening session, is the shaft area clean? If you were doing a long session, possibly involving using the diamond truing tool, did you change to clean water mid session and clean out any gunk?

Using the forum trick of removing most of the dirty water with a turkey baster followed by wiping the gunk with a paper towel and a water rinse should eliminate grit accumulation in the water trough.  A small round plastic brush should keep your EZYlock threads clean.

Ken

[Herman Trivilino]

I don't know if I can hammer the shaft to knock it through my black carbide wheel. I suspect the shaft diameter is reduced around the wheel and it would crack the wheel.

Yes, there's a huge danger of breaking the grindstone. I speak from experience. :-)