New SVD-186R jig

[Ken S]

I just received the linked email from Advanced Machinery:

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/copy-of-tormek-svd-186-tormek-jig-for-gouges-and-cutters-upgrade-from-svd-185-and-svd-180

More information will be posted when available.

Ken

[Ken S]

Here is a link to Tormek's new video showing the SVD-186R

https://youtu.be/BaQoKA7jq_0

Ken

[RichColvin]

Ken,

The email I received today from Tormek showed it being used with an MB-100 Multi Base on the side of a diamond wheel.  What are your thoughts on using it on a traditional grindstone?

Kind regards,
Rich

[Ken S]

Rich,

Tormek has always recommended using the side if the grinding wheel to flatten chisel and plane backs. As I recall, the handbook states "reserving the side of the grinding wheel" to flatten backs. I would use the side of the wheel with caution as Tormek does not recommend a side truing procedure and as we both know, traditional grinding wheels will wear. How much wear would a couple carbon steel carving chisels cause if sharpened with a light touch?

Related to this, why wouldn't Wootz' extended sharpness knife deburring techniques also work with carving tools?

Ken

[Jan]

The Multi Base MB-100 and diamond wheels offer new possibilities for flattening chisels backs and grinding flat bevels provided the tool blade is not twisted.

Jan

[RickKrung]

Here is a link to Tormek's new video showing the SVD-186R

https://youtu.be/BaQoKA7jq_0

Ken

Is there something else different about this "new" version other than the addition of the locking screw?  I am not seeing it and it appears nothing else is mentioned by Tormek in their advertising. 

If it is just the screw, that is a very easy addition, with an M6x1 tap and another locking knob.  Or am I missing something?

Rick

[Ken S]

Rick,

You are partially correct. In fact, I was thinking the same thing on the surface until I took the 186R apart. the area of the shaft is thicker than the rest of the shaft. I don't know the technical term for this. This allows more threads to grip.
My first thought, before I noticed this, like you, was to drill and tap the shaft and add a locking screw. That seems iffy now. The original 186 shaft costs $31.95 US as a spare part. The larger plastic knobs cost around eight dollars, although I have not found the exact size yet. So for around half the price of a 186R, one could probably modify his original 186.
I have not noticed any other changes.

Ken

EDIT:

If the extra thickness around the threaded hole had not been added, I would have thought modifying the older version was cost effective, especially for those of us with a drill press and metal working experience.
Whether or not the extra functionality is worth while is an individual decision. For anyone planning to purchase an SVD-186, I would definitely recommend the new, revised version.

On a more personal level, I am very pleased to see the new version. For me, it represents what I hope will become a trend in Tormek thinking. Those of you who have followed my posts over the years will know that I like to apply sharpening skills from one tool to another. For example, my kenjig began as an idea for sharpening carving tools before moving to chisels and plane blades before moving to knives. I like the idea of a turning gouge jig helping to sharpen carving tools.

I hope this thinking will continue with Tormek.

Ken

[jvh]

Hello,

I needed to grind some V-chisel so I made this 1 € modification to old jig SVD-186 to have life easier.

I hope that pictures are self-explanatory.

Used material:
- M5 Stainless steel Blind Rivet Nut, Open End Grooved Reduced
- Knurled knob M5x15 (or you can use a screw M5x15)
- Drill bit dia. 6,9 mm


jvh

[RickKrung]

Hello,

I needed to grind some V-chisel so I made this 1 € modification to old jig SVD-186 to have life easier.

I hope that pictures are self-explanatory.

Used material:
- M5 Stainless steel Blind Rivet Nut, Open End Grooved Reduced
- Knurled knob M5x15 (or you can use a screw M5x15)
- Drill bit dia. 6,9 mm


jvh

Very nice thinking.  I've not used that type of blind nut before, which I know as a "threaded insert", although I happen to have some in my shop for a potential mod on a bamboo planing mill. 

I think another way to do it would be to just add a collar over the OD.  Could be made snug fit over the barrel.  Threads in the collar would carry the load, wouldn't even need to have threads in the barrel, although that is what I would do, by drilling and tapping both at the same time. 

Rick