Tormek Drive Wheel Problem

[Rick_B]

Recently purchased the Tormek system (November 06 via Buffalo, NY woodworking show).  I watched the Jeff Ferris viseo and followed all instructions including applying the provided belt dressing.  However, I can still easily stop the drive mechanism with minimal hand pressure.  The stone and drive wheel stop but the motor shaft contihues to turn.  Tried a second application of the belt dressing with no success.  The dressing provided is not a paste like that that appears in the video.  It is more like a thick yellow oil.  Is this the right stuff?  if so - what next?  Thanks!

[Jeff Farris]

Unfortunately, the belt dressing shown in the video is no longer available.  There was a notice on the Maintenance Kit Instruction sheet that tells you not to use as much as is shown in the video.  The new dressing needs only a few drops.  You now have too much on.  It is not a catastrophe.  Take a paper towel and wipe off as much of the belt dressing as you can. Then,  take a piece of coarse sandpaper (80 grit or so) and hold it against the drive wheel while it runs.  That will rough up the surface.

[Rick_B]

Thanks Jeff - I had already tried the 80 grit sandapaer with no success so I went to a 60 grit and it seem to be working OK.  

How pressure do you need to apply to the grading stone when going from fine to rough?  How do you know when you have graded enough?

I know I have a lot of questions but so far I ma ompressed with the Tormek.. I took an old block plane blade that looked a lot like your "axed" one in the video and re-shaped it in less than 5 minutes.  Unfortunately I used a bevel angle of 30 degrees - not the 20 degrees I wanted  .  so I'm starting over but it is going relatively fast.

BTW - ice site and forum - very user friendly!

[Jeff Farris]

Firm pressure is needed for grading in both directions.  When bringing the stone back to fast cutting with the coarse side of the grader, you can angle the stone grader so that the corner is on the grindstone. It will clean the stone faster than a flat approach.

[Rick_B]

Jeff - thanks for the info - machine is working fine now - except for the user error  

I was sharpening a plane blade and had it installed in the tol holder.  When I got done sharpening the bevel was 1/8 out of square with the side of the blade - obvioiusly too much.  I believe this is repairable but how do I avoid this the next time?  Do you have to intentionally put the blade in the holder "out of square" - that is not against the pins or is this the result of uneven pressure?  Thanks!

[Jeff Farris]

Rick, you have one of a couple of issues occurring, check them all out.

The most common cause of out of square grinds is too much tension on the clamp that is on the opposite side from the index pins. That will "roll" the blade to that side and lift it up on the side next to the pins.  Always look at the back of the tool and its relationship to the base of the straight edge jig. The back of the chisel or plane iron should be flat on the jig base.

Another cause that is less common, is the alignment of the Universal Support and the grindstone.  If the stone has worn unevenly, and is not parallel to the Universal Support, it can cause you to grind out of square. The truing tool will recut the grindstone parallel to the Universal Support.

It also comes down to the operator.  Sometimes a person will inadvertently apply more pressure on the side of his dominant hand. I always keep a small square handy when I am sharpening plane irons so that I can check for square and adjust the pressure and time spent on one area of the blade to bring it into proper shape.

[Rick_B]

Thanks Jeff - I will try your suggestions!

[Ken S]

Another still applicable topic.

Ken