pfeil gouges

[Kiwi]

Hello my name is Kara aka Kiwi from NZ.  I have had my Tormek T7 for 6mths and must admit I am very impressed.  But like anything it still takes a bit of practice.  My question is to do with my pfeil straight gouges #9/10 and #9/7.  Every time I try to sharpen them the wings or side edges break off. I am using the svs 32 which seems to work well for the flatter gouges but not so much for the more straight curved gouges such as the #9s.  I realise the metal is thin at the wing tips and the bevels have to be flat although once finished the whole bevel shape looks more like a semicircle.  Perhaps the SVD 185 could assist me better especially for the more 'curved' straight gouges and hopefully eliminate the torn wing situation I am experiencing. I also notice the svs 50 multi jig could be handy for these particular gouges.  Don't get me wrong this is an excellent machine your help and guidance would be most appreciated.

Check this link out I wonder Jeff if you approve.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AY9kAkUudG4 shows the svs32 jig being used like a svs 50 where the jig is pushed up against the micro adjuster bar rather than in between the 2 flanges.

[Stickan]

Hi,
Just checked out the video and using the jig that way would make the sharpening process less accurate.
Honing these kind of tools I also use the supportbar while honing.
Watch this video with Jeff Farris and at 1:45 you can see how to apply compound the easy way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n4GzXVQvUE

Please read the instruction again for the SVS-32

http://tormek.com/international/en/grinding-jigs/svs-38-short-tool-jig-svs-32/

Page 69 about Grinding shows a relevant tip. You need to flatten the edge and then use the "line of light" and then you see where to sharpen. A common problem is that users roll their tool all the edge line all the time and the the wings will be sharpened off.

Also, on a tool with very thin wings you need to use less pressure on the wings and use the honing-wheel to get the burr off. Many times when you are sharpening and thinking you are getting it right and then hone it, the burr made it look like it was done perfectly but you actually sharpened a little to much.
Page 20-23 in the handbook will also help you understand how it works.


Good lightning is important and clean water so you can see what's going on.

Hopefully this will help you get your tools right.

Stay sharp!

Stig

[Ken S]

Welcome to the forum, Kara.

I am not a carver. Stig answered your question better than I can.

I did notice a couple things in the video link you posted. The presenter did not mention, however, I presume he was using the wheel graded fine with the stone grader.

There is an old (but instructive) joke about using an old fashion large wet grinding wheel to make paring knives from chef's knives. The video wisely showed using the horizontal support bar position. Using the fine graded wheel and very light pressure frequent checking will carry the day. I am certain you already knew this. In this regard, carving tools are like fine knives.

When applying honing compound, I don't bother to turn the motor off. This seems like safety overkill to me.

Do you use the shaped leather honing disks on your Tormek?

I hope you will keep posting.

Ken

[Kiwi]

Thanks Stickan and Ken. Yes these large pfeil sweep gouges (#9s) is somewhat an art.  Not for a minute did I think it was going to be easy without practice.  I think at the end of the day Stickan is to be extremely weary of the line of light etc.  I am obviously over grinding on a spot or it looks as if things are sharpened evenly but no (perhaps I am applying to much pressure on the wings).  Yes Ken I do use the profiled leather wheels on my t7 I find them usefull and once again things that seem obvious aren't  quite as it seems ie: applying honing compound.