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#91
Knife Sharpening / Knife restoration- Wade & Butc...
Last post by kwakster - January 30, 2026, 03:24:47 PM
My most recent find is this Wade & Butcher "Boone" carbon steel hunting knife.
It was discovered together with several other vintage hunting knives in an old leather hunting bag from the 1930's somewhere in Amsterdam.
The steel has gotten a dark grey patina from being stored inside the sheath for decennia.

On the blade the letters "ILLWELL" are very faintly visible, and through Google i found that originally it spelled "GILLWELL", which is the 144 acre sight North of London given to the Scouts in 1919 and now the worlds historical site for scouts.
It seems that the change from "GILLWELL" to "GILWELL" took place when Baden Powell was made the first Baron Baden-Powell of Gilwell in 1929.
So in 1919, when the first Wood Badge course was held, it was Gillwell Park.

If the info from Google is correct that would date my knife to have been manufactured between 1919 and 1929, although the sheath is probably not original to the knife but most likely from Scandinavian origin.




























#92
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by Rossy66 - January 30, 2026, 01:02:24 PM
That is exactly what I am trying to accomplish. I like the composite wheel as I don't need to use any polishing compound. May I ask where did you get your wheel from?
#93
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by WimSpi - January 30, 2026, 11:56:30 AM
I do use the felt wheel, but I can't say it's a game changer.

For inspiration: I do think it's important that all the wheels I use are 250 mm. So I also have a leather wheel with a diameter of 250 mm.  I use the M-102 as an FVB and use a long toolbar that I can use for both wheels. The wheels turn away from me.

This process means I don't have to change or adjust the setup as often.
#94
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by tgbto - January 30, 2026, 09:13:12 AM
Still, a quick double check with Tormek support (support@tormek.se) cannot hurt, right ?

They've probably run into this problem already so...

#96
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - January 30, 2026, 06:09:01 AM
Hmmm, not sure that it is vitrified but I cannot see that it would damage the bond in any case.
#97
General Tormek Questions / Re: Some Questions about my ne...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - January 30, 2026, 06:07:28 AM
A few thoughts.

Is the wheel on the machine the SG or the SJ? It is not clear from the photos. If it is the SJ then you will take forever to get a bevel. If it is the SG then do you have the grading stone to change the grit? You reshape the bevel with the coarse grade then finish with the fine grit and then if desired the SJ wheel.

If you ware having trouble holding the jig down then toy are using too much pressure on the knife. Let the wheel do the work. If so then it may be you are not regrading the SG to the coarse setting, see prev para.

My old T7 was a bit noisy, did not worry me too much. Also if the honing wheel has a bump then it is perfectly fine. The leather is not always perfectly smooth. That will not impact the honing.

Did you clean and grease the shaft? The recommended is white lithium. It is water resistant and really sticky. Remove the shaft, clean it with a rag and re-grease the bearings. It pays to repeat this every few months, especially if you are using it a lot.

As for the heat it can get quite hot without doing any damage but if the shaft is not properly lubricated and/or you are using too much pressure then it can put excessive load on the motor.
#98
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by Rossy66 - January 30, 2026, 12:49:58 AM
Thanks to everyone who replied and I apologize for not being more concise. I do have the MB102 and use it with a second USB that I bought but, unless the knife is small (pairing knife size) the handle still touches the diamond wheel when honing, no matter what the angle is. The reason for the same size honing wheel as the main diamond wheel is so I have handle clearance when honing so I can just flip the usb around (with the diamond wheel rotating away, I can never remember if that's edge trailing or leading) or use both USB's one for rotating towards me (my current sharpening position) and then rotate the machine around and use the USB in the MB102 for the honing to cut my overall time down.

Sorry if the explanation is not very good, I have seen the guy from Alexander Knife Sharpening with a 10' honing wheel on a T8 on some of his video's, I think it's leather, and the movement from sharpening to honing is quite effortless. 
#99
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by Sir Amwell - January 30, 2026, 12:25:56 AM
I agree with Ricks replies 100%.
With regards the felt honing wheel though.
My personal experience with using one (bought from Vadim) was not that good.
Couldn't get it to produce Vadims' results no matter what I did and how much I tinkered with it. Always higher Bess initially and always higher Bess after subsequent honing on leather.
Enquiries on this forum produced mixed conclusions.
I wanted to make it work but gave up after much experimentation and frustration.
So to return to an old inconclusive subject:
Who in this community has good results with a felt wheel à la Vadim?
How, EXACTLY, have you made it work?
This is maybe a word of caution to the OP before they rush in headlong thinking the felt wheel will be game changing.
#100
General Tormek Questions / White Fluffy Mold On SG-250
Last post by Thy Will Be Done - January 29, 2026, 10:39:30 PM
Hi,

I seem to have some mold growing in and on the wheel, thinking I need to run a solution of hydrogen peroxide through the wheel to kill all of it.  Any idea whether this will harm the wheel?  Seems like a vitrified bond abrasive which should be chemically invincible I'd imagine.