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#91

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 - Oil Better Suited...

Last post by Thy Will Be Done - May 18, 2026, 02:29:37 PM

If you reduce friction you will reduce sharpening efficiency. In another post, you seem to complain that the stone is glazed and needs refreshing... If the stone wears down it means that new abrasives are exposed, therefore maintaining sharpening efficiency. If the stone wears down too quickly, it means it is not hard enough for the material you're trying to sharpen.

This is patently false and a myth that needs to die. Friction is nothing more than generating heat.  Abrasives work by cutting, friction actually reduces cutting of abrasives and increases wear of abrasives.  The stone surface wearing is not at all the same as the stone releasing abrasive grains via bond strength being low enough to do so.  You can easily see this in the fact that if you continue grinding on a piece there will be an increase in the level of polish very quickly and noticeably as the surface gets more and more glazed/loaded.  It will burnish more than cut the steel as this progression happens, burnishing is not desirable.

#92

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Bond Strength - Too...

Last post by tgbto - May 18, 2026, 09:05:59 AM

In my experience, the SG is okay for most stainless and carbon steels. Only carbide steels or one type of very scratch-resistant carbon steel require the SB or a diamond wheel. Could it be an issue with applying too much pressure on the wheel ?

#93

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 - Oil Better Suited...

Last post by tgbto - May 18, 2026, 09:03:24 AM

If you reduce friction you will reduce sharpening efficiency. In another post, you seem to complain that the stone is glazed and needs refreshing... If the stone wears down it means that new abrasives are exposed, therefore maintaining sharpening efficiency. If the stone wears down too quickly, it means it is not hard enough for the material you're trying to sharpen.

#94

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 - Oil Better Suited...

Last post by RichColvin - May 18, 2026, 04:20:16 AM

Ken once told me that grindstones are like brake shoes:  both are meant to be worn down through use.

#95

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 - Oil Better Suited...

Last post by Ken S - May 17, 2026, 10:48:33 PM

Has anyone tried using Tormek ACC with the SG? It has cooling properties like water, and also has anti rusting properties.

Ken

#96

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 - Oil Better Suited...

Last post by John_B - May 17, 2026, 09:51:48 PM

The Tormek system using water does not heat the blade being sharpened to a point where it will lose temper.

#97

General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...

Last post by John_B - May 17, 2026, 09:47:45 PM

Not YouTubing. Not disappearing up my own or anyone else's. So what's the point of expensive sophisticated camera microscopes? Not needed for volume sharpening.

I already had a good macro setup including lighting, lens and focusing rails using my Nikon D750 DSLR. I used this for macro photography for a long time. I would not advocate buying this or any expensive camera kit if all you are going to do is view knife edges especially in any production setting. For my customers I do not use anything other than a Bausch & Lomb loupe to view the edge. Being able to minutely alter the focus point while taking multiple images then stacking them in Photoshop does yield superior results though.

#98

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Bond Strength - Too...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - May 17, 2026, 04:34:03 AM

The bond strength is not the issue. The critical factor is the MOHs hardness of the abrasive compared to what is being sharpened. MOHs hardness is the resistance to scratching. In other words the sharpening material, the wheel in this case, has to have a higher MOHs hardness than that which is being sharpened, for instance the knife. The SG is Aluminium Oxide and is good for regular carbon steels.

In summary the abrasive has to be able to scratch that which is being sharpened otherwise the abrasive will glaze and not cut. It may cut but very slowly and require frequent re-dressing.

If your wheel is glazing then this is an indication that the steel is wearing out the grit in the wheel and is a higher MOH hardness than the wheel and this the wheel is unsuitable for sharpening this particular item.

The SB wheel is Silicon Carbide has a higher MOHs hardness and suitable for high carbon and alloy steels. Silicon Carbide is also suitable for Tungsten Carbide such as you find on some turning tools for instance. CBN and Diamond are harder again and thus also suitable for your harder steels.

I keep the SG for low to mid carbon steels and for harder steels such as special alloy and HSS I use my Diamond wheels but the SB is also an option.

#99

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 - Oil Better Suited...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - May 17, 2026, 04:21:18 AM

Definitely not. It is a water stone and designed to be soaked in water for best results

#100

General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...

Last post by Sir Amwell - May 17, 2026, 01:03:57 AM

I have been using the Kingmas 60X as recommended by Rick, really useful and far less fiddle faddle than a tomlov or camera set up.
Depends on what you're hoping to achieve with magnification.
I struggled to use the Kingmas to start with but got used to it and find it a quick and efficient way to see exactly what's going on at the edge, especially for curved scissors and thinning/ texturising scissors where it's hard to use a static lens.
So good for everyday use and good value.
Not YouTubing. Not disappearing up my own or anyone else's. So what's the point of expensive sophisticated camera microscopes? Not needed for volume sharpening.
Kingmas is all I really need for the occasions when I just need to know what I'm missing.