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#91
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by kwakster - January 30, 2026, 03:27:06 PMOriginally the blade used to be full convex ground, but sometime during it's existence a previous owner had sharpened a bit of a rough secundairy bevel into it.
So i reground the blade by hand to full convex again on 400 grit wet & dry using WD40 oil as a lubricant on a medium hard rubber backing (old piece of fiber reinforced conveyor belt)
The old blunt "edge" measured between 35 and 40 degrees inclusive, while the new edge apex fits almost exactly in the (specifically aimed for) 30 degrees inclusive slot of my Tormek WM200 Angle Master.
I do consider this a bit on the conservative side, as i think the steel can most likely handle a thinner edge geometry just fine, but for now i want to play it safe with this rare & valuable knife (to me anyway)
If need be further thinning can always be done later.
There is still a tiny burr on the apex, next step will be to refine the scratch pattern with probably 800 grit wet & dry.
After that the plan is to recut the swedge with a small diamond file followed by wet & dry paper & some WD40.
The handle has already been smooth sanded with 400 grit wet & dry and treated with several coats of warm Granger's wax.
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So i reground the blade by hand to full convex again on 400 grit wet & dry using WD40 oil as a lubricant on a medium hard rubber backing (old piece of fiber reinforced conveyor belt)
The old blunt "edge" measured between 35 and 40 degrees inclusive, while the new edge apex fits almost exactly in the (specifically aimed for) 30 degrees inclusive slot of my Tormek WM200 Angle Master.
I do consider this a bit on the conservative side, as i think the steel can most likely handle a thinner edge geometry just fine, but for now i want to play it safe with this rare & valuable knife (to me anyway)
If need be further thinning can always be done later.
There is still a tiny burr on the apex, next step will be to refine the scratch pattern with probably 800 grit wet & dry.
After that the plan is to recut the swedge with a small diamond file followed by wet & dry paper & some WD40.
The handle has already been smooth sanded with 400 grit wet & dry and treated with several coats of warm Granger's wax.
#92
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by kwakster - January 30, 2026, 03:26:16 PMCurrently i'm doing a bit of online research on what kind of steel was used in these knives, and according to this old ad the Boone blades were made from (the famous) Wardlow steel.
Then i found these posts from 2017 on a forum:
Question: "What type of knife was used by Camillus in the early years, was it 1095 ?
I have a stockman made between 1920 and 1930, use it every day for carving, sharpest pocket knife I every had.
I am 64 years old this steel beats them all."
Answer: "Camillus forged their blades from Wardlow's best crucible steel from Sheffield England."
Reply: "All I know this blade steel is great, I carve 4 to 6 hours a day, sometime just strop and keep cutting.
My new pocket knives will not do this no matter the brand."
And from Bladeforums: "The S. & C. Wardlow steel that Camillus imported from Sheffield, England, was derived from about 8o percent pure Swedish iron ore; wide variation in heating did not injure it."
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Then i found these posts from 2017 on a forum:
Question: "What type of knife was used by Camillus in the early years, was it 1095 ?
I have a stockman made between 1920 and 1930, use it every day for carving, sharpest pocket knife I every had.
I am 64 years old this steel beats them all."
Answer: "Camillus forged their blades from Wardlow's best crucible steel from Sheffield England."
Reply: "All I know this blade steel is great, I carve 4 to 6 hours a day, sometime just strop and keep cutting.
My new pocket knives will not do this no matter the brand."
And from Bladeforums: "The S. & C. Wardlow steel that Camillus imported from Sheffield, England, was derived from about 8o percent pure Swedish iron ore; wide variation in heating did not injure it."
#93
Knife Sharpening / Knife restoration- Wade & Butc...
Last post by kwakster - January 30, 2026, 03:24:47 PMMy most recent find is this Wade & Butcher "Boone" carbon steel hunting knife.
It was discovered together with several other vintage hunting knives in an old leather hunting bag from the 1930's somewhere in Amsterdam.
The steel has gotten a dark grey patina from being stored inside the sheath for decennia.
On the blade the letters "ILLWELL" are very faintly visible, and through Google i found that originally it spelled "GILLWELL", which is the 144 acre sight North of London given to the Scouts in 1919 and now the worlds historical site for scouts.
It seems that the change from "GILLWELL" to "GILWELL" took place when Baden Powell was made the first Baron Baden-Powell of Gilwell in 1929.
So in 1919, when the first Wood Badge course was held, it was Gillwell Park.
If the info from Google is correct that would date my knife to have been manufactured between 1919 and 1929, although the sheath is probably not original to the knife but most likely from Scandinavian origin.
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It was discovered together with several other vintage hunting knives in an old leather hunting bag from the 1930's somewhere in Amsterdam.
The steel has gotten a dark grey patina from being stored inside the sheath for decennia.
On the blade the letters "ILLWELL" are very faintly visible, and through Google i found that originally it spelled "GILLWELL", which is the 144 acre sight North of London given to the Scouts in 1919 and now the worlds historical site for scouts.
It seems that the change from "GILLWELL" to "GILWELL" took place when Baden Powell was made the first Baron Baden-Powell of Gilwell in 1929.
So in 1919, when the first Wood Badge course was held, it was Gillwell Park.
If the info from Google is correct that would date my knife to have been manufactured between 1919 and 1929, although the sheath is probably not original to the knife but most likely from Scandinavian origin.
#94
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by Rossy66 - January 30, 2026, 01:02:24 PMThat is exactly what I am trying to accomplish. I like the composite wheel as I don't need to use any polishing compound. May I ask where did you get your wheel from?
#95
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by WimSpi - January 30, 2026, 11:56:30 AMI do use the felt wheel, but I can't say it's a game changer.
For inspiration: I do think it's important that all the wheels I use are 250 mm. So I also have a leather wheel with a diameter of 250 mm. I use the M-102 as an FVB and use a long toolbar that I can use for both wheels. The wheels turn away from me.
This process means I don't have to change or adjust the setup as often.
For inspiration: I do think it's important that all the wheels I use are 250 mm. So I also have a leather wheel with a diameter of 250 mm. I use the M-102 as an FVB and use a long toolbar that I can use for both wheels. The wheels turn away from me.
This process means I don't have to change or adjust the setup as often.
#96
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by tgbto - January 30, 2026, 09:13:12 AMStill, a quick double check with Tormek support (support@tormek.se) cannot hurt, right ?
They've probably run into this problem already so...
They've probably run into this problem already so...
#97
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Woodpeckers Router Plane
Last post by John Hancock Sr - January 30, 2026, 06:12:12 AMThis could work - https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=5335.0
#98
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - January 30, 2026, 06:09:01 AMHmmm, not sure that it is vitrified but I cannot see that it would damage the bond in any case.
#99
General Tormek Questions / Re: Some Questions about my ne...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - January 30, 2026, 06:07:28 AMA few thoughts.
Is the wheel on the machine the SG or the SJ? It is not clear from the photos. If it is the SJ then you will take forever to get a bevel. If it is the SG then do you have the grading stone to change the grit? You reshape the bevel with the coarse grade then finish with the fine grit and then if desired the SJ wheel.
If you ware having trouble holding the jig down then toy are using too much pressure on the knife. Let the wheel do the work. If so then it may be you are not regrading the SG to the coarse setting, see prev para.
My old T7 was a bit noisy, did not worry me too much. Also if the honing wheel has a bump then it is perfectly fine. The leather is not always perfectly smooth. That will not impact the honing.
Did you clean and grease the shaft? The recommended is white lithium. It is water resistant and really sticky. Remove the shaft, clean it with a rag and re-grease the bearings. It pays to repeat this every few months, especially if you are using it a lot.
As for the heat it can get quite hot without doing any damage but if the shaft is not properly lubricated and/or you are using too much pressure then it can put excessive load on the motor.
Is the wheel on the machine the SG or the SJ? It is not clear from the photos. If it is the SJ then you will take forever to get a bevel. If it is the SG then do you have the grading stone to change the grit? You reshape the bevel with the coarse grade then finish with the fine grit and then if desired the SJ wheel.
If you ware having trouble holding the jig down then toy are using too much pressure on the knife. Let the wheel do the work. If so then it may be you are not regrading the SG to the coarse setting, see prev para.
My old T7 was a bit noisy, did not worry me too much. Also if the honing wheel has a bump then it is perfectly fine. The leather is not always perfectly smooth. That will not impact the honing.
Did you clean and grease the shaft? The recommended is white lithium. It is water resistant and really sticky. Remove the shaft, clean it with a rag and re-grease the bearings. It pays to repeat this every few months, especially if you are using it a lot.
As for the heat it can get quite hot without doing any damage but if the shaft is not properly lubricated and/or you are using too much pressure then it can put excessive load on the motor.
#100
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by Rossy66 - January 30, 2026, 12:49:58 AMThanks to everyone who replied and I apologize for not being more concise. I do have the MB102 and use it with a second USB that I bought but, unless the knife is small (pairing knife size) the handle still touches the diamond wheel when honing, no matter what the angle is. The reason for the same size honing wheel as the main diamond wheel is so I have handle clearance when honing so I can just flip the usb around (with the diamond wheel rotating away, I can never remember if that's edge trailing or leading) or use both USB's one for rotating towards me (my current sharpening position) and then rotate the machine around and use the USB in the MB102 for the honing to cut my overall time down.
Sorry if the explanation is not very good, I have seen the guy from Alexander Knife Sharpening with a 10' honing wheel on a T8 on some of his video's, I think it's leather, and the movement from sharpening to honing is quite effortless.
Sorry if the explanation is not very good, I have seen the guy from Alexander Knife Sharpening with a 10' honing wheel on a T8 on some of his video's, I think it's leather, and the movement from sharpening to honing is quite effortless.