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#11
Knife Sharpening / Re: Guide to Knife Steel Types
Last post by tgbto - May 27, 2026, 08:49:37 AMQuote from: Jamie007 on May 26, 2026, 11:39:54 PMFor more details, you can read a piece I've written in my personal blog.
Hello Jamie,
I sincerely hope your presonal blog is not a collection of AI-written articles. Still, a couple of things would have me either believe the contrary or at least think you should cross-check what you present as definite truths.
A few examples amongst many :
- On your page about "hollow edge knives", what you are describing is not a hollow edge (the edge being the part that actually cuts the food, a hollow edge or concave edge is created by a convex sharpening medium such as a wheel). I suggest you quickly compute an estimate of the weight difference between a scalloped blade and a plain one, you'll see soon enough that there is no significant difference in knife weight. And... "I prefer chef knives because they're thick"? Really ? The "hollow" santoku you show is probably twice as thick as the thickest of my chef knives. The thicker the knife, the higher the resistance to cutting because of the effective surface.
- What you present on your article as a chef knife is actually a santoku, the chef knife being a gyutou instead. I fail to see how a chef knife would be less able to handle mincing herbs than a utility knife. A chef knife, having a higher blade, allows for more control and consistency while mincing.
And there are countless others.
Well, actually it does look like AI slop. I'm not sure it does anyone a service, including yourself.
#12
Knife Sharpening / Re: Guide to Knife Steel Types
Last post by John Hancock Sr - May 27, 2026, 02:59:12 AMWith the prevalence of diamond and CBN the sharpening difficulty is not so relevant anymore
#13
Knife Sharpening / Re: Guide to Knife Steel Types
Last post by Jamie007 - May 26, 2026, 11:39:54 PMHello,
TDRL; There are two main types of steel you'll find on most knives i.e. Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel.
1. Carbon Steel- It holds the edge for a really long time and is much stronger however, it can't withstand corrosion resistance and needs regular maintenance.
2. Stainless Steel- It is corrosion resistance due to the addition of Chromium and needs fewer maintenance.
For more details, you can read a piece I've written in my personal blog.
TDRL; There are two main types of steel you'll find on most knives i.e. Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel.
1. Carbon Steel- It holds the edge for a really long time and is much stronger however, it can't withstand corrosion resistance and needs regular maintenance.
2. Stainless Steel- It is corrosion resistance due to the addition of Chromium and needs fewer maintenance.
For more details, you can read a piece I've written in my personal blog.
#14
General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening a Curved 10" Kn...
Last post by Ken S - May 25, 2026, 10:39:06 PMWelcome to the forum, Johanna.
I do not presently have access to my sharpening area presently, so I am operating on memory. Several years ago, I could not understand why the handbook stated that honing could only be done freehand with the T4. Upon my T4 and SVM-45, I found the problem and the solution. The plastic locking knobs on the knife jig and the horizontal support bars prevented the knife jig from moving smoothly across the support bar. Switching the plastic locking knobs with grub screws corrects most of the problem. I found that I needed to grind just a little off the knife jig. This is easily done with the T4. Your local hardware store should carry the M6 grub screws.You will need a metric Allen wrench for this. The metric wrench set costs around $10US. Three M6 grub screws cost around $5. A more elegant solution is an MB-102. For a very occasional long knife with your T4, the grub screw solution will work. The MB-102 or a regular frontal vertical base will do the same function more efficiently, but at considerably higher cost.
For longer knives, like your 10" knife, you will also need a US-430 to handle the extra blade length.
If this does not solve your problem, please post again. We will solve this.
Ken
I do not presently have access to my sharpening area presently, so I am operating on memory. Several years ago, I could not understand why the handbook stated that honing could only be done freehand with the T4. Upon my T4 and SVM-45, I found the problem and the solution. The plastic locking knobs on the knife jig and the horizontal support bars prevented the knife jig from moving smoothly across the support bar. Switching the plastic locking knobs with grub screws corrects most of the problem. I found that I needed to grind just a little off the knife jig. This is easily done with the T4. Your local hardware store should carry the M6 grub screws.You will need a metric Allen wrench for this. The metric wrench set costs around $10US. Three M6 grub screws cost around $5. A more elegant solution is an MB-102. For a very occasional long knife with your T4, the grub screw solution will work. The MB-102 or a regular frontal vertical base will do the same function more efficiently, but at considerably higher cost.
For longer knives, like your 10" knife, you will also need a US-430 to handle the extra blade length.
If this does not solve your problem, please post again. We will solve this.
Ken
#15
General Tormek Questions / Sharpening a Curved 10" Knife ...
Last post by johannaguzman - May 25, 2026, 12:24:28 PMHelping a neighbour. Tried to sharpen a 10" knife, max 1" depth. Bit of a curve too.
My t4 was scraping the edge of the blade by the time I got to the tip.
Not sure if this was / is possible.
Gave up in the end and used a t-2 which worked well.
Horses for courses?
My t4 was scraping the edge of the blade by the time I got to the tip.
Not sure if this was / is possible.
Gave up in the end and used a t-2 which worked well.
Horses for courses?
#16
Scissors Sharpening / Re: The way I found to sharpen...
Last post by Fingures40 - May 22, 2026, 10:10:50 PMNot all can be taken apart.
Some are a rivet.
Some are a rivet.
#17
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: History of the twist bit
Last post by John Hancock Sr - May 22, 2026, 04:21:23 AMThe intro is not quite correct. There have been many refinements over the years which is patently obvious but otherwise quite interesting.
#18
Drill Bit Sharpening / History of the twist bit
Last post by Ken S - May 21, 2026, 11:03:59 PM #19
General Tormek Questions / Re: Angle Master Degree Differ...
Last post by tgbto - May 21, 2026, 10:35:54 AMAs a side note, you can also get an accurate value of this offset if you use one of the many calculators available (calcapp, tormekcalc, etc.) by both changing the diameter of the wheel to 254mm *and* reducing the distance to top of the wheel by 2mm.
#20
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: SPAs on Twist Drills
Last post by John Hancock Sr - May 21, 2026, 03:51:47 AMThat can be a life saver (figuratively of course) for larger holes on lower power drill presses where the burr on the underside of the material can catch and stall the machine.