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#11
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finetuning 2 Condors
Last post by kwakster - July 05, 2026, 07:41:12 PMFirst step refining the blade surfaces with 240 grit wet & dry SiC paper on a rubber backing using WD40 as a lubricant, while using the Tormek WM200 AngleMaster to check regularly if the apex stays around the 30 degrees inclusive mark:
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#12
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finetuning 2 Condors
Last post by kwakster - July 05, 2026, 07:40:10 PMThe Bushcraft Parang already had a convex edge with an apex around 40 degrees inclusive, a bit much for my taste, so i reshaped/reground the blade by hand with a Chinese 120 grit diamond file into a convex form which starts higher up the blade sides and now come together in an apex at around 30 degrees inclusive.
Also did something of a "Kephart-mod", where the upper sides of the blade are ground a bit narrower compared to the midsection.
For the pictures i crosshatched the now thickest parts of the blade, and the next step will be hand sanding the blade surfaces on a few different grits of wet & dry on a rubber backing using WD40 as a lubricant.
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Also did something of a "Kephart-mod", where the upper sides of the blade are ground a bit narrower compared to the midsection.
For the pictures i crosshatched the now thickest parts of the blade, and the next step will be hand sanding the blade surfaces on a few different grits of wet & dry on a rubber backing using WD40 as a lubricant.
#13
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finetuning 2 Condors
Last post by kwakster - July 05, 2026, 07:38:43 PMThe hard shouldered V-shaped edge with an apex of +/- 30 degrees inclusive was changed into a soft shouldered convex shaped edge, also with an apex of +/- 30 degrees inclusive, with the help of a bastard file & a smooth file.
Going to find out how a filed convex edge holds up in my use.
I tried to make the file marks pointing a bit backwards, which will aid in grabbing the thin to medium sized branches this tool is mainly going to be used for.
The final stubborn burr remnants i could not remove with just the smooth file alone were abraded away on the Tormek leather wheel with a dab of PA-70 aluminium oxide paste.
The resulting apex is armhair shaving sharp on skin level, but the slightest sideways motion makes it slice into the skin, so this is not an edge you want to try to shave your face with.
BTW: Condor's 1075 steel is noticeably harder to file compared to the 1055 steel in the Cold Steel machetes.
Starting the new convex bevels by filing the hard shoulders down with an F.Dick bastard file:
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Refining the now convex bevels made by the bastard file with an Öberg smooth file:
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Done:
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While having about the same angle at the apex when compared to the old V-shaped edge, the new convex shaped edge is thinner behind that apex, and it also eliminates most or all of the hard bevel shoulders, making the blade more streamlined and thus more efficient for it's job.
If the steel allows it, with next sharpenings the convex will also be "pulled up" somewhat higher up the blade sides for an even shallower convex shape (while keeping the apex at about the same 30 degrees inclusive angle) for an even further increase of efficiëncy.
Below you can see two pictures of the Eco Golok machete with it's new convex edge resting into the 30 degrees V-shaped slot of my Tormek WM200 AngleMaster, to show that the apex reaches the correct measuring depth for 30 degrees inclusive, and that the bevels behind the apex are thinner than a V-bevel with about the same 30 degrees inclusive apex.
The pics were taken with an old IPad and are far from perfect, but they do give some idea.
The first pic makes the real apex look translucent due to reflecting light from both sides, so the distorted and dark apex-like shape just above it is just some sort of shadow.
Similar effects also make it look like the right side of the convex bevel isn't touching the slot wall, which of course it is.
The second pic is a bit too dark at the apex, but shows the thinner bevels and the lack of shoulders behind it maybe just a bit better.
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Going to find out how a filed convex edge holds up in my use.
I tried to make the file marks pointing a bit backwards, which will aid in grabbing the thin to medium sized branches this tool is mainly going to be used for.
The final stubborn burr remnants i could not remove with just the smooth file alone were abraded away on the Tormek leather wheel with a dab of PA-70 aluminium oxide paste.
The resulting apex is armhair shaving sharp on skin level, but the slightest sideways motion makes it slice into the skin, so this is not an edge you want to try to shave your face with.
BTW: Condor's 1075 steel is noticeably harder to file compared to the 1055 steel in the Cold Steel machetes.
Starting the new convex bevels by filing the hard shoulders down with an F.Dick bastard file:
Refining the now convex bevels made by the bastard file with an Öberg smooth file:
Done:
While having about the same angle at the apex when compared to the old V-shaped edge, the new convex shaped edge is thinner behind that apex, and it also eliminates most or all of the hard bevel shoulders, making the blade more streamlined and thus more efficient for it's job.
If the steel allows it, with next sharpenings the convex will also be "pulled up" somewhat higher up the blade sides for an even shallower convex shape (while keeping the apex at about the same 30 degrees inclusive angle) for an even further increase of efficiëncy.
Below you can see two pictures of the Eco Golok machete with it's new convex edge resting into the 30 degrees V-shaped slot of my Tormek WM200 AngleMaster, to show that the apex reaches the correct measuring depth for 30 degrees inclusive, and that the bevels behind the apex are thinner than a V-bevel with about the same 30 degrees inclusive apex.
The pics were taken with an old IPad and are far from perfect, but they do give some idea.
The first pic makes the real apex look translucent due to reflecting light from both sides, so the distorted and dark apex-like shape just above it is just some sort of shadow.
Similar effects also make it look like the right side of the convex bevel isn't touching the slot wall, which of course it is.
The second pic is a bit too dark at the apex, but shows the thinner bevels and the lack of shoulders behind it maybe just a bit better.
#14
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finetuning 2 Condors
Last post by kwakster - July 05, 2026, 07:37:32 PMFor me the Cold Steel kukri machete has proven to be very comfortable with it's contoured PVC handle, and even more so with a fuzzy finished surface.
The PVC tends to shed most of the fuzzy bits after a few days of chopping, leaving a surface that is very hand friendly and doesn't produce any blisters, even with prolonged use (like the factory checquered surface can do)
Being softer, the PVC on this specific model also dampens shock more effectively compared to the harder polypropylene which is on most other Cold Steel machetes (as well as on these Condors)
But contouring & fuzzy finishing really does wonders for both the handling & comfort.
Being so thick, the handles on the Condors offer lots of tough amorphous polypropylene to work with, and being longer also gave me the opportunity to provide each handle with 2 distinct handle positions: one up front for thinner wood and a second one at the back for thick branches and small trees.
Shaping the inside of the flared handle end into a hook proved also very useful, as this tends to guide your pinky inward instead of outward, which is much easier on the hand.
The last two pictures in my post above already show the hook on the Bushcraft Parang, and later i also did this on the Eco Golok.
The PVC tends to shed most of the fuzzy bits after a few days of chopping, leaving a surface that is very hand friendly and doesn't produce any blisters, even with prolonged use (like the factory checquered surface can do)
Being softer, the PVC on this specific model also dampens shock more effectively compared to the harder polypropylene which is on most other Cold Steel machetes (as well as on these Condors)
But contouring & fuzzy finishing really does wonders for both the handling & comfort.
Being so thick, the handles on the Condors offer lots of tough amorphous polypropylene to work with, and being longer also gave me the opportunity to provide each handle with 2 distinct handle positions: one up front for thinner wood and a second one at the back for thick branches and small trees.
Shaping the inside of the flared handle end into a hook proved also very useful, as this tends to guide your pinky inward instead of outward, which is much easier on the hand.
The last two pictures in my post above already show the hook on the Bushcraft Parang, and later i also did this on the Eco Golok.
#15
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finetuning 2 Condors
Last post by kwakster - July 05, 2026, 07:35:54 PMThe Bushcraft Parang now also has a contoured & fuzzy finished handle:
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#16
Knife Sharpening / Finetuning 2 Condors
Last post by kwakster - July 05, 2026, 07:34:18 PMCurrently busy finetuning two Condor choppers, a Bushcraft Parang and an Eco Golok machete.
For years i've only used kukri models for trail clearing (a Tora Blades Camping kukri and a Cold Steel Kukri machete) here in the Veluwe nature reserve, and the plan is to get some hands-on experience using a few other tried & true chopping blades from different parts of the world.
Just did the contouring & fuzzy/chewy finishing of the Golok machete handle with the wood rasp (the Parang will get the same treatment), and tested the blade on a few thick dried oak branches and various green branches.
Very well hardened 1075 steel i must say (no visible flattening or rolling at ~30 degrees inclusive), and now the handle is much more comfortable and grippy compared to the thick and slick factory handle (for my hands anyway)
Also no need for additives like grip tape etc.
Both will receive a narrow convex edge later.
No job for my Tormek T7, but the WM200 will come in quite handy.
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For years i've only used kukri models for trail clearing (a Tora Blades Camping kukri and a Cold Steel Kukri machete) here in the Veluwe nature reserve, and the plan is to get some hands-on experience using a few other tried & true chopping blades from different parts of the world.
Just did the contouring & fuzzy/chewy finishing of the Golok machete handle with the wood rasp (the Parang will get the same treatment), and tested the blade on a few thick dried oak branches and various green branches.
Very well hardened 1075 steel i must say (no visible flattening or rolling at ~30 degrees inclusive), and now the handle is much more comfortable and grippy compared to the thick and slick factory handle (for my hands anyway)
Also no need for additives like grip tape etc.
Both will receive a narrow convex edge later.
No job for my Tormek T7, but the WM200 will come in quite handy.
#17
General Tormek Questions / Re: EzyLock Best Practice
Last post by Ken S - July 04, 2026, 02:29:17 PMLike many of us, I experienced frozen EZYlock several years ago. I finally resorted to using my Channelocks. I was fortunate that my problem was fixed without damaging my grinding wheel. (This is NOT a recommendation to use Channelocks!)
I have always been careful in not leaving my grinding wheel in the water trough. Also, I always remove my grinding wheel after each sharpening session. Having noticed several posts with this problem over the years, I emailed Mats in support. Mats is Tormek employee number six. With his years of experience and dedication, I believe that no one understands the Tormek more than he does.
Mats devised a series of tests to determine what might make the EZYlock fail. With no grease on the spacer, he could get an occasional EZYlock failure. With a light coating of grease on the face of the spacer FACING AWAY FROM THE GRINDING WHEEL, he could not produce a failure. I believe this is the key to unlocking the problem.
For those who do not remove the grinding wheel regularly, I suggest loosening the EZYlock before each sharpening session. This starts each session with no residual thread resistance.
Ken
I have always been careful in not leaving my grinding wheel in the water trough. Also, I always remove my grinding wheel after each sharpening session. Having noticed several posts with this problem over the years, I emailed Mats in support. Mats is Tormek employee number six. With his years of experience and dedication, I believe that no one understands the Tormek more than he does.
Mats devised a series of tests to determine what might make the EZYlock fail. With no grease on the spacer, he could get an occasional EZYlock failure. With a light coating of grease on the face of the spacer FACING AWAY FROM THE GRINDING WHEEL, he could not produce a failure. I believe this is the key to unlocking the problem.
For those who do not remove the grinding wheel regularly, I suggest loosening the EZYlock before each sharpening session. This starts each session with no residual thread resistance.
Ken
#18
Knife Sharpening / Re: Modding 2 Cold Steel Heavy...
Last post by kwakster - June 30, 2026, 04:34:20 PMJust came home from a camping & hiking holiday in France, mostly in the Morvan nature reserve, which itself lies in the Burgundy region.
Still not very touristic when compared to the south of France, and especially if you like good quality local food, various wines & beers i would highly recommend this region.
The beef cattle you can see in the background of the pictures are of the Blonde D'Aquitaine breed, which thrives in the area and are a prime source of high quality beef.
The modified machete again came in very handy during our hikes, as some trails were almost grown shut.
It devours brambles, various types of green undergrowth, as well as both thin & thick saplings with just a flick of the wrist.
Thinner trees with a thickness the size of a grown man's upper arm take just a few hits at speed for them to fall over.
Because of the efficient design of the thin blade together with the high tip speed this machete bites very deep, so consequently on thick wood i do have to wiggle the blade free after each hit, but that is to be expected.
Still not very touristic when compared to the south of France, and especially if you like good quality local food, various wines & beers i would highly recommend this region.
The beef cattle you can see in the background of the pictures are of the Blonde D'Aquitaine breed, which thrives in the area and are a prime source of high quality beef.
The modified machete again came in very handy during our hikes, as some trails were almost grown shut.
It devours brambles, various types of green undergrowth, as well as both thin & thick saplings with just a flick of the wrist.
Thinner trees with a thickness the size of a grown man's upper arm take just a few hits at speed for them to fall over.
Because of the efficient design of the thin blade together with the high tip speed this machete bites very deep, so consequently on thick wood i do have to wiggle the blade free after each hit, but that is to be expected.
#19
Knife Sharpening / Re: Modding 2 Cold Steel Heavy...
Last post by kwakster - June 30, 2026, 04:32:48 PMStill had these 2 pics on my wife's phone.
Most green stuff around this size takes just one swipe at speed.
Most green stuff around this size takes just one swipe at speed.
#20
Knife Sharpening / Re: Modding 2 Cold Steel Heavy...
Last post by kwakster - June 30, 2026, 04:31:59 PMWhat remains of the second Heavy Duty machete after completely reshaping both the blade & the handle, pictured here below a slightly modified Cold Steel kukri machete.
The idea was to combine an only 2.0 mm thick & lightweight machete blade with a modified kukri form which uses a more forward placed & pronounced belly as it's sweet spot, with an aggressively slicing forward curve as a follow-up.
It's in the testing phase and i'm still working on it, but so far it has already proven to be very effective as well very easy on the wrist joints due to it's low weight.
With a 45 degree angled hit at speed the blade will cleanly pass through a wrist size young birch tree/sapling, almost without feeling the impact.
Thinner springy stuff that isn't immediately severed by a direct hit by the belly gets sliced by the forward curve, but most of the time the combination of a high tip speed with that curvy sweet spot is more than enough to do the job.
The current convex edge is done on 400 grit wet & dry SiC paper on a rubber backing using WD oil as a lubricant, and measures ~30 degrees inclusive.
The handle is contoured & fuzzy finished with the woodrasp.
Playing around with crosshatching using a waterproof marker to check on the location & size of the sweet spot as well as the effectiveness of the slicing forward curve after a chopping session.
Before:
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After:
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Currently busy with giving the forward portion of the blade somewhat of a lenticular cross section to further improve upon pass-through cuts.
So far i'm having a lot of fun for only very little money,
Current specs:
Overall length: 51,2 cm
Blade length: 37,5 cm
Blade thickness: 2.0 mm
Weight: 386,9 grams
Steel type: 1055 carbon steel
Hardness: ~56 HRC
Handle material: polypropylene
The idea was to combine an only 2.0 mm thick & lightweight machete blade with a modified kukri form which uses a more forward placed & pronounced belly as it's sweet spot, with an aggressively slicing forward curve as a follow-up.
It's in the testing phase and i'm still working on it, but so far it has already proven to be very effective as well very easy on the wrist joints due to it's low weight.
With a 45 degree angled hit at speed the blade will cleanly pass through a wrist size young birch tree/sapling, almost without feeling the impact.
Thinner springy stuff that isn't immediately severed by a direct hit by the belly gets sliced by the forward curve, but most of the time the combination of a high tip speed with that curvy sweet spot is more than enough to do the job.
The current convex edge is done on 400 grit wet & dry SiC paper on a rubber backing using WD oil as a lubricant, and measures ~30 degrees inclusive.
The handle is contoured & fuzzy finished with the woodrasp.
Playing around with crosshatching using a waterproof marker to check on the location & size of the sweet spot as well as the effectiveness of the slicing forward curve after a chopping session.
Before:
After:
Currently busy with giving the forward portion of the blade somewhat of a lenticular cross section to further improve upon pass-through cuts.
So far i'm having a lot of fun for only very little money,
Current specs:
Overall length: 51,2 cm
Blade length: 37,5 cm
Blade thickness: 2.0 mm
Weight: 386,9 grams
Steel type: 1055 carbon steel
Hardness: ~56 HRC
Handle material: polypropylene