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Recent posts
#11
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Stanley #1 plane
Last post by rolsen - March 27, 2026, 09:55:10 AMSurface rust can often be dealt with WD-40 and Scotch-Brite pads.
#12
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Stanley #1 plane
Last post by John Hancock Sr - March 27, 2026, 05:59:17 AMIf it is just surface rust then I would use Ballistol as a lubricant on some wet&dry - 80-120 as rolsen says. Ballistol disolves surface rust and also lubricates and protects. As for flattening, it does depend on how out of flat it is. If it is way out then it may require a LOT of patience to flatten. You do really want it as flat as possible for best performance.
One of the better hand tool teachers is Paul Sellars. A man with a lot of experience and a great teacher. His plane restoration video is here.
https://paulsellers.com/2016/01/restoring-bench-plane-video-on-youtube/
One of the better hand tool teachers is Paul Sellars. A man with a lot of experience and a great teacher. His plane restoration video is here.
https://paulsellers.com/2016/01/restoring-bench-plane-video-on-youtube/
#13
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Stanley #1 plane
Last post by rolsen - March 26, 2026, 09:28:50 PM1. https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/ is quite helpfull usually
2. It depends. If you're going to make it a user, then go for it.
3. Evapo-Rust is my go-to for rust removal, it is safe to use and it does a very good job.
All in all, Stanley #1 is a very collectable hand plane, all things you do for it, will lessen its value. But, if you gonna make it a user for yourself, do whatever you need to make it functional. Thick glass plate is good base to put some 80-120 grit sandpaper on, for flattening of the sole.
2. It depends. If you're going to make it a user, then go for it.
3. Evapo-Rust is my go-to for rust removal, it is safe to use and it does a very good job.
All in all, Stanley #1 is a very collectable hand plane, all things you do for it, will lessen its value. But, if you gonna make it a user for yourself, do whatever you need to make it functional. Thick glass plate is good base to put some 80-120 grit sandpaper on, for flattening of the sole.
#14
Hand Tool Woodworking / Stanley #1 plane
Last post by TomA - March 26, 2026, 07:44:16 PMHello, I recently acquired a Stanley #1 plane. I am looking for advice: 1) how can I date it, and 2) should I flatten the sole, which currently is rusty, but not deeply pitted, and 3) how much restoration should I do, e.g., use electrolysis to remove rust on the body and blade, repair chips on tote. Thank you for your advice. Tom
#15
Knife Sharpening / Re: ****CLAIMED**** Free dispo...
Last post by Rossy66 - March 25, 2026, 04:23:31 PMThanks
#16
General Tormek Questions / Re: Hollow ground messes up sw...
Last post by Ken S - March 25, 2026, 02:22:15 AMGood post, John.
Ken
Ken
#17
General Tormek Questions / Re: Hollow ground messes up sw...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - March 25, 2026, 01:17:43 AMIf it were me ... at the risk of restating other people's posts! ... I would heel and tip grind on the SJ which is all you need really. It creates the secondary bevel with one advantage. You can hand sharpen just the secondary bevel on a hand sharpening stone between regrinds on the Tormek by placing the heel/tip on the stone. This gets you back to work much faster.
This is what I do with my woodworking tools. I use a 5,000 Shapton and leather strop to get me back to work without breaking out the Tormek. I rest the tip and heel on the stone which makes it easy to refresh the edge. It only takes about 30 seconds to re-establish an edge. The hollow grind makes this an ideal technique for keeping tools sharp. After a while I can break out the Tormek and re-establish the hollow grind on multiple tools I find this much more efficient.
This is what I do with my woodworking tools. I use a 5,000 Shapton and leather strop to get me back to work without breaking out the Tormek. I rest the tip and heel on the stone which makes it easy to refresh the edge. It only takes about 30 seconds to re-establish an edge. The hollow grind makes this an ideal technique for keeping tools sharp. After a while I can break out the Tormek and re-establish the hollow grind on multiple tools I find this much more efficient.
#18
Tormek T4 and T4 Bushcraft / Re: T-4 compatibility in the 2...
Last post by Ken S - March 24, 2026, 10:24:49 PMHobbit,
Good question. Many years ago, my T7 was stolen during a break in while I was moving. I contacted a friend who was a former US importer for Tormek. He referred me to a large US dealer who also stocked spare parts. While there was no official "custom" program at the time, he sold me a stripped down version of the T7 at a fair price. Neither he nor I got rich on the deal.
I have no knowledge of UK dealers. I would suggest you contact the UK importer and several larger dealers. Include the dealer who sold you your present T4. Explain your situation and that you are looking for a second T4, either regular or Bushcraft (they are identical). Watch for sales and the second hand market.
Unlike the T8 Original, the T4 does not include any jigs in the original box. Essentially, you would end up with a spare SG-200, leather honing wheel, and marker, all of which you would probably end up using.
Ken
Good question. Many years ago, my T7 was stolen during a break in while I was moving. I contacted a friend who was a former US importer for Tormek. He referred me to a large US dealer who also stocked spare parts. While there was no official "custom" program at the time, he sold me a stripped down version of the T7 at a fair price. Neither he nor I got rich on the deal.
I have no knowledge of UK dealers. I would suggest you contact the UK importer and several larger dealers. Include the dealer who sold you your present T4. Explain your situation and that you are looking for a second T4, either regular or Bushcraft (they are identical). Watch for sales and the second hand market.
Unlike the T8 Original, the T4 does not include any jigs in the original box. Essentially, you would end up with a spare SG-200, leather honing wheel, and marker, all of which you would probably end up using.
Ken
#19
Tormek T4 and T4 Bushcraft / T-4 compatibility in the 200mm...
Last post by Hobbit72 - March 24, 2026, 01:14:14 PMAs pointed out by Ken S in the previous thread - the 200mm stone size of the T-4 is highly prevalent across many grinder brands and models.
I have a T-4 Bushcraft and have added the Japanese stone, All 3 (DC, DF and DE) diamond stones for scandi grinds and modern steels (Magnacut, Elmax et all, the large guide, the hand tool kit and the new angle finder - a great system
Love the system but would like another machine to reduce the number of inevitably time consuming stone changes as I move through grits.
If I had a T-8 the situation would be simple - I could by a bare "T-8 custom" without the stones or base kit for half the full set price (in UK terms at least) and crack on but that option is not available for the T-4 and I am loathed to pay double the implied price of a base unit for extra jigs and stone etc that I already have.
I am not aware of any uk second hand forums that cover Tormek's and eBay hasn't thrown much up that doesn't include a value destroying 300 mile round trip to collect.
Are there any simple but reliable machines that are known to be compatible with a Tormek stone? Apologies if that is heresy on this site btw
I might contact Tormek about a bare/custom version btw
I have a T-4 Bushcraft and have added the Japanese stone, All 3 (DC, DF and DE) diamond stones for scandi grinds and modern steels (Magnacut, Elmax et all, the large guide, the hand tool kit and the new angle finder - a great system
Love the system but would like another machine to reduce the number of inevitably time consuming stone changes as I move through grits.
If I had a T-8 the situation would be simple - I could by a bare "T-8 custom" without the stones or base kit for half the full set price (in UK terms at least) and crack on but that option is not available for the T-4 and I am loathed to pay double the implied price of a base unit for extra jigs and stone etc that I already have.
I am not aware of any uk second hand forums that cover Tormek's and eBay hasn't thrown much up that doesn't include a value destroying 300 mile round trip to collect.
Are there any simple but reliable machines that are known to be compatible with a Tormek stone? Apologies if that is heresy on this site btw
I might contact Tormek about a bare/custom version btw
#20
General Tormek Questions / Re: Hollow ground messes up sw...
Last post by Ken S - March 23, 2026, 11:28:33 PMTwo thoughts:
The actual cutting is only done by the very edge of the blade. I agree with the secondary bevel. I understand the desire for the entire bevel to be shiny; however, this shine is mostly for looks. Spending time with the leather honing wheel will help narrow the gap.
A possibility is purchasing a new SG-200. That will make the two wheel diameters much closer. Use your present SG-200 for tools which don't require the SJ-200.
Ken
The actual cutting is only done by the very edge of the blade. I agree with the secondary bevel. I understand the desire for the entire bevel to be shiny; however, this shine is mostly for looks. Spending time with the leather honing wheel will help narrow the gap.
A possibility is purchasing a new SG-200. That will make the two wheel diameters much closer. Use your present SG-200 for tools which don't require the SJ-200.
Ken