Recent posts

#11

General Tormek Questions / Re: New YouTube Concept

Last post by Rossy66 - Yesterday at 08:36:56 PM

Great video (I also watched the Tanto knife one) would like to see closer camera shots and brighter lighting, not to complain as I am a huge fan.

#12

General Tormek Questions / Re: Vibrations and noise Torme...

Last post by Rossy66 - Yesterday at 08:11:19 PM

Thats good information, my MB102 is really hard too slide in and out. I may give them a call.

#13

Knife Sharpening / Re: The pain of choice

Last post by John_B - Yesterday at 07:59:34 PM

Here is my opinion and the order in which I would buy things.

1. I would get the MB-102 as it is more versatile and cost difference is marginal.
4. KS-123 I have used App and KS-123 and prefer the KS-123 for ease of use and no extra measuring needed.
I would do 1 and 4 together

2. I have 2 leather wheels one is used most often with Tormek paste. The otheer I keep in plastic bag and it uses 1µ spray. No experience with felt.
3. No opinion on jigs

#14

General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...

Last post by John_B - Yesterday at 07:31:04 PM

Is your machine in a basement that has high humidity? I have a dehumidifier in my basement that runs mostly in the more humid months. I have never had mold on my wheel as it dries fairly soon after use.

#15

Knife Sharpening / The pain of choice

Last post by Andy - Yesterday at 05:17:53 PM

Hello masters. I have not met a better forum than this one.
I ask masters to help with the choice. Tormek will not come for a long time. But you need to buy a lot for Tormek. Reading the forum, I still did not understand what suits me best. Supposedly everything works. I understand that everything is individual.
I think about this:
1. FVB vs. MB 102
2. Leather wheel (2 pcs) vs. Felt wheel (2 pcs) (and I have WSKO ELIT )
3. SVM 45 vs. KJ 45 (by SVM 45 I mean custom)
4. KS 123 vs. app
tormek vs. clone (joke)
I have already purchased Vadim's book.
I already have CBN #400. #1000 is already on its way. #160 I will order. #80 under ?
Thank you.
Andriy .

#16

Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife modification - Spyde...

Last post by Tony Montana - Yesterday at 12:11:30 PM

Did you thin a knife using a Tormek? I thought it was nearly impossible...

I'm very curios.
What does this clamp looks like? And how does a window cleaner prevent the SB-250 from glazing?

#17

General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...

Last post by carlhanger - February 08, 2026, 07:45:47 PM

Maybe, instead of mold, the white fluff is efflorescence?

#18

Knife Sharpening / Re: Newbie question: chef kniv...

Last post by RickKrung - February 08, 2026, 05:44:14 PM

...snip...
That said, how do I remove the excess of material towards the grip? I found a video on YT where someone repaired a similar knive by grinding away the excess metal with a belt sander before grinding the blade. I don't have a belt sander, can I use the standard (coarse) Tormek stone for this?

M.

PS. I now can add pics, this is the knive I want to sharpen.You cannot view this attachment.

Unlike yourself, I started with a belt grinder.  I use mine quite frequently for different needs when sharpening.  I have a 1x30 variable speed Rikon, but there are a ton of different units out there.  They can be pretty inexpensive and would quickly deal with that particular issue you're having.
If you're just sharpening your own knives it may be overkill , but you will find other uses as well.

A belt grinder could be an excellent option, if you do enough sharpening and need the heavier metal removal often enough.  I have two, a Viel 1x42 and now a Vevor 1x30.  I also have diamond and CBN wheels for my T8 and a Rikon slow speed bench grinder.  All cost a good bit (but not nearly as much as a Tormek) and all perform reasonably well. 

One note of caution, belt grinders can generate a lot of heat quickly, so to avoid ruining the temper, I highly recommend one that is variable speed.  I have just recently been using the Vevor 1x30 and it can be slowed to the same low surface speed as the Tormek grinding wheels.  It can also be reversed (through programming steps) to be able to run edge-trailing.  This machined, while running about $200 USD is one of the cheaper options (to diamond and CBN wheels) and is extremely versatile, being usable for general purpose grinding of all sorts of things.  It does generate that annoying grinding grit debris, however. 

However, I think the least expensive and appropriate for the occasional heavy grinding is a traditional high speed grinding wheel mounted/adapted to a Tormek.  There has been a lot of discussion on this forum, since at least 2010 about mounting Norton 3X (blue) grinding wheels of either 64 or 80 grit.

They can be quite aggressive, run in the water bath just like Tormek grinding wheels and trued using the Tormek truing tool.  At 1" width, and (at least in the USA) an arbor hole that requires custom sleeves to adapt to the Tormek 12mm shaft.  Ken S and I have been strong proponents of this method. 

If you do a search here for "Norton" or "Norton 3X" you will find so many posts, it may be difficult to find one specific to actually doing the adaptation.  It likely will require a bushing to adapt the arbor hole and some flange washers to take up space on the shaft, due to the difference in wheel width.  I machined both because I could.  Others have found creative ways, one being 12mm fender washers.  I think someone found an online source for an adapter.  Below is a photo of an 8" Norton 3X mounted on my T8 and another of the bushing and flange washers I machined.  Here is a video of truing a 10" no-name grinding wheel on my T8.

#19

Knife Sharpening / Knife modification - Spyderco ...

Last post by kwakster - February 08, 2026, 04:05:53 PM

Years ago i modified this Spyderco Endura ZDP-189 from a saber/flat ground to a saber/hollow ground knife with the help of my trusted Tormek T7 fitted with an SB-250 Black Silicon stone & a modified knife clamp.
Previously the knife looked like this (with an already Tormek reprofiled edge angle of ~25 degrees inclusive)







Afterwards the knife looked like this.
Although the edge angle was only marginally thinned to ~22,5 degrees inclusive, the area just behind the edge is much thinner now at ~0.3 mm, making the the knife cut better noticeably.













The job took about 2 hours of grinding (with the SB-250 stone graded to coarse with the help of the TT-50 diamond stone grader), as ZDP-189 in it's hardened state (64-65 HRC on this model) is quite some wear resistant stuff.
To grade it back to fine (for normal sharpening) i use a large diamond stone, as the standard SP-250 grading stone is completely useless on the silicon carbide stone.
For this project i ran my SB-250 in a trough completely filled with a Windex clone to avoid glazing the surface during grinding & sharpening.

The knife is on a more or less permanent loan with a friend of mine who works as a process operator in a baby milk plant, where part of his job is cutting open huge plastic bags (with glued cardboard top layer and about the size of a small room) containing milk powder.
The wear & tear resistant plastic plus the industrial type of cardboard in those bags ruin edges in no-time, and so far this reground ZDP-189 Endura lasts the longest from all the knives used in the plant, also because of those serrations which enable him to get the job done when the plain edge part gets too dull.

#20

General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...

Last post by BPalv - February 08, 2026, 03:21:26 PM

Hi,

I seem to have some mold growing in and on the wheel, thinking I need to run a solution of hydrogen peroxide through the wheel to kill all of it.  Any idea whether this will harm the wheel?  Seems like a vitrified bond abrasive which should be chemically invincible I'd imagine.

I don't know the cause, but my wheel does the same.  Occasionally I don't use my SG for a couple weeks.  As it starts to dry it grows a little white fuzz.  It hasn't seem to make any difference.