Recent posts

#11

Wood Turning / 30 to 35

Last post by Sawboy - February 15, 2026, 03:49:13 PM

I bet this must be out there somewhere but can't find the thread, sorry. The t8 handbook gives examples for spindle gouges for 30 and 45 degree bevels and shows the 3-step recipe (hole, protrusion, 186 setting). I'd like to re-grind a SG via my BGM-100's/grinder from 30 to 35 degree bevel before transferring over for final sharpening on my t8 but can't understand whether to use hole A or B on the TTS-100 as it's not mentioned in the handbook. Hope I've explained myself OK here or am I missing something! Anyone able to help with this, please?

#12

Knife Sharpening / Re: Noobie Advice About Stones

Last post by Ken S - February 15, 2026, 01:53:52 PM

Rich,
As a thrifty person, I understand wanting to squeeze all of the juice from a grinding wheel. However, I would interject another point of view. The late Terry Beech was one of the most prolific Tormek knife sharpeners. He was also one of the thriftiest. His mobile shop was an ancient VW bus. His Tormek was an ancient model he purchased used. In addition to his local sharpening he also coached sharpeners. Here is a link to his obituary:

https://montereybayfarmers.org/market-news/the-sharpest-guy-at-the-market

He routinely replaced his grinding wheels once they were worn to 220mm, because beyond that point they became inefficient. Surface speed is circumference x RPM. Below 220mm he felt the wheel slow down interfered with grinding efficiency.

Ken

#13

Knife Sharpening / Re: Noobie Advice About Stones

Last post by RichColvin - February 15, 2026, 12:48:30 PM

There are ways to extend the useful life of a grindstone.  I've catalogued some here:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Grindstones-StoneLife.html. 

#14

Knife Sharpening / Re: Noobie Advice About Stones

Last post by Ken S - February 15, 2026, 11:51:28 AM

I learned how to drive with a stick shift on a VW Bug in the 1960s. It was great fun, and met all my driving needs. I won't disparage all the improvements over the years; however, if I was still driving, that VW would still fulfill my needs.

My sharpening needs have always been simple. I sharpen only my own tools and knives. My kitchen knives are Victorinox and Henckel. Other knives are an assortment of basic SAK, Mora, and Buck. I have no desire to own more exotic higher priced knives. I fully acknowledge that my sharpening needs might change if I sharpened more exotic knives or sharpened professionally. I don't see that happening.

For my needs, the SG is all that I need. ( I have noticed that the Tormek instructors on the online classes almost universally prefer the SG, although they have full access to any of the Tormek grinding wheels.) Gradual wear in the SG is really not a big deal. Nor is using the stone grader to adjust the grit. Foro forty years, that was the only choice for Tormek users and just accepted, just like manual transmission. The SG offers advantages the superabrasive wheels do not have. The wheel can be reshaped with radiused corners, something I recommend for general use. Surface damage can be repaired as well as bringing up fresh grains. The SG has a lot to offer. For those needing to sharpen harder steels frequently, the SB offers these advantages in a wheel designed for harder steels.

Ken

#15

General Tormek Questions / Re: Should I buy the LA-220 ev...

Last post by Ken S - February 15, 2026, 10:54:11 AM

In my opinion, the leather and composite wheels were designed for two different purposes. The leather with honing compound was designed for working with wet sharpening, the "traditional Tormek technique". The composite honing wheel was designed for the T2 and later T1. They were designed to work in commercial or home kitchens where water and honing compound would be undesirable. Tormek later added a composite honing wheel for the T8. The smaller composite wheel also works with the T4, which is essentially the same machine as the T2.

I have both honing wheels. I admit this is overkill for my simple needs. I also have two T8s, each with a different boning wheel. For someone starting out, I would recommend the SG wheel and leather honing wheel with PA-70 honing compound. After gaining proficiency, feel free to spread out if you feel the need.

Ken

#16

General Tormek Questions / Re: Some Questions about my ne...

Last post by Ken S - February 15, 2026, 10:26:03 AM

My T7 came with the older plastic drive wheel. I had no problem with it;it never cracked. Along with the EZYlock shaft and Advanced Water Tray, I purchased the upgrade parts. I am very impressed with the new zinc drivewheel.I gave my functioning plastic wheel to a friend.

Zinc machining must be a fairly new technology. I believe Tormek first used it for the machined top of the T4 in 2014. It is a game changer. It solves the thirty minute duty cycle overheating problem. Machined zinc top is the major difference between the T7 and T8 as well as the redesigned jigs. I suspect it is also a major factor in the eight year warranty.

For those on a tight budget with the older plastic drive wheel, there is no immediate need to replace it if it is not cracked. I'm sure there are many cracked and glued wheels still doing trooper service. I don't regret replacing mine.

Ken

#17

Knife Sharpening / Re: Noobie Advice About Stones

Last post by John Hancock Sr - February 15, 2026, 08:03:46 AM

I may try the existing stone in the meantime just to see what happens

You can use the SG so long as the jigs et all allow you to use it. The only difference is that the hollow is slightly deeper due to the reduced radius.

#18

Knife Sharpening / Re: Dc-250 - Df-250 - Sg-250?

Last post by John Hancock Sr - February 15, 2026, 08:00:28 AM

Many times DE-250 (grit 600) is the final step

The DE is 1000 grit.

Is there any practical or theoretical pros with using diamond (or CBN) as the last step of sharpening super steel's like m390, rather than traditional aluminium oxide stone?

Your abrasive needs to be harder (MOHS) than your steel or you will simply glaze your wheel. This is the process whereby the sharpening process rounds over your grit and leaves it blunt, thus making the wheel less effective and deforming rather than scratching the steel. I am assuming that you are dressing the SG otherwise you are leaving it glazed and not working efficiently.

#19

General Tormek Questions / Re: Should I buy the LA-220 ev...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - February 15, 2026, 07:53:41 AM

The composite wheel is a lower grit and will not leave as fine an edge as the leather wheel. On the other hand honing on the composite wheel will be faster that on the leather wheel. As for customer experience it all depends as they say. The composite wheel will leave a toothier edge and for many operations will cut more easily as a result. For very fine and precise "food craft" even the leather wheel will leave too coarse an edge.

For general sharpening your average kitchen knife the composite wheel will be fine.

#20

General Tormek Questions / Re: Some Questions about my ne...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - February 15, 2026, 07:47:28 AM

new drive wheel seems of much higher quality than the old one

Yes. They upgraded it significantly. The old plastic wheel would crack over the years.