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#11
Knife Sharpening / SG-250 - Oil Better Suited Tha...
Last post by Thy Will Be Done - May 16, 2026, 12:51:44 AM
After extensive use of this stone with water trough, I'm beginning to think that this stone is much more suited to using something like a thick mineral oil on the cutting surface.  That may not even be thick enough because ideally it would not be something that would simply soak into the stone at all.  I suppose that is the issue with oil after all and wondering if there is anything similar one could use to both act as a coolant and a friction reducer to limit wear to abrasive much more than water and also keep the edge from losing temper.
#12
Knife Sharpening / SG-250 Bond Strength - Too Str...
Last post by Thy Will Be Done - May 16, 2026, 12:46:01 AM
I've been using this single stone for long enough to have used half its life, it's down to 9" from 10" diameter so I feel well qualified to say this.  It glazes too rapidly for anything other than very narrow bevels and/or very soft/simple carbon steels.  It is very well suited for that but anything like high alloy or wider bevels and it stalls pretty quickly.  I have been using the diamond truing bit to both keep flat and also to recut the surface as I find that the silicon carbide 'stone' they provide will simply not make the wheel cut aggressively enough to use as a grinder doing more than a simple touchup.  Changing geometry takes far longer than it should/could in many cases.

So, all that said I'm finally going for another wheel or I'm just going to get rid of everything I have that isn't simple carbon steel.  I'm wondering if the SB-250 is a similar proposition in terms of bond strength.  I know silicon carbide can be more friable aka crumbles more easily to renew cutting ability.  That said, I don't believe the black carbide is much more friable than the aluminum oxide used in the SG-250.  So, I'm wondering how well it really works on harder to grind steels or will it glaze similarly?  Which will still mean frequent trips to the diamond bit to recut the surface all too often to keep cutting aggression high enough to work at a reasonable pace without having to press excessively hard on the wheel, which I find is not practical as it causes muscle/body issues for me.
#13
General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...
Last post by RickKrung - May 15, 2026, 05:00:26 PM
Quote from: John_B on May 14, 2026, 09:15:16 PMHere is an interesting video on the family of inexpensive Chinese microscopes. I think he unfairly compares them to a digital camera system and lens that costs several thousand dollars. I own a DSLR with Macro lens and  lighting that I can tether to my computer using Adobe software. It works great but it is not practical for a person sharpening multiple knives or trying to run a small business. If you make your money as a content creator it may be a different story.

I like to use a Bausch & Lomb loupe for edge inspection. Cutting a thermal receipt and feeling for resistance changes gives me a pretty good indication if I got the burr removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_K8CtSgXREk


That is an interesting video.  I'd be interested in hearing why you think it was an unfair comparison.  I also own and use a DSLR/macro lens/lighting/tethering/focus stacking in post-processing tools. I agree it is not practical for someone doing "production" sharpening in real time, however, it could be quite useful for that same person examining edges/burrs during a process of figuring out effective deburring methods that would then get up into practice for the production sharpening process.  Even, so, I do not anticipate doing this, mainly because I have an adequate alternative, the Kingmas 60X hand microsope.  I also think the video reasonably and accurate demonstrates that the cheap USB cameras really do not deliver on their magnification claims. 

As mentioned in a prior post (above), way back, I explored high-end ($1000+) USB cameras that would do in-camera focus stacking, but still found them too fiddly and not worth it compared to the 60x hand microscope.  I also think the video acknowledges that the cheap USB cameras can be used, up to a point, to examine edges, but the much cheaper hand loupes are a more reasonable method. 
#15
I do not check visually. I use the fingernail method which I find more than adequate. Then I use the paper test for a final check.
#16
Knife Sharpening / Re: Small Knife Holder - Sharp...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - May 15, 2026, 09:48:55 AM
I do my pocket knives by hand. It takes practice but I get really good results.
#17
Knife Sharpening / Re: Small Knife Holder - Sharp...
Last post by Thy Will Be Done - May 14, 2026, 09:57:05 PM
I should clarify, meaning large daggers, roughly 6-10" blades. 
#18
General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...
Last post by John_B - May 14, 2026, 09:15:16 PM
Here is an interesting video on the family of inexpensive Chinese microscopes. I think he unfairly compares them to a digital camera system and lens that costs several thousand dollars. I own a DSLR with Macro lens and  lighting that I can tether to my computer using Adobe software. It works great but it is not practical for a person sharpening multiple knives or trying to run a small business. If you make your money as a content creator it may be a different story.

I like to use a Bausch & Lomb loupe for edge inspection. Cutting a thermal receipt and feeling for resistance changes gives me a pretty good indication if I got the burr removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_K8CtSgXREk
#19
General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...
Last post by John_B - May 14, 2026, 07:40:34 PM
Looks like there may have been a surge of buyers as the smaller version is not available on Amazon.
#20
Knife Sharpening / Small Knife Holder - Sharpen D...
Last post by Thy Will Be Done - May 14, 2026, 06:35:25 PM
Hi,

Running into problem of not being able to jig sharpen daggers, seems this may work.  Anybody doing this?