- Welcome to Tormek Community Forum.
News:
Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.
www.tormek.com
Recent posts
#11
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by Sir Amwell - Yesterday at 11:32:02 AM15 degrees/side unless a customer asks for something specific (they very rarely do).
#12
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by tgbto - Yesterday at 09:32:40 AMI used to sharpen @20dps a long time ago. Then I came across Wootz's litterature and decided to give 15dps a try.
It has been my standard since. I made comparisons using the same knife model sharpened at 20 dps and 15dps, the 20 dps got dull significantly faster. I have not noticed 15dps being too fragile for standard to fairly high quality knives.
It has been my standard since. I made comparisons using the same knife model sharpened at 20 dps and 15dps, the 20 dps got dull significantly faster. I have not noticed 15dps being too fragile for standard to fairly high quality knives.
#13
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by John Hancock Sr - Yesterday at 08:43:11 AMI am not a professional so take my advice as it comes. My approach is to select a default of 20. The reason is two fold. First, the majority of general purpose kitchen knives recommend that angle, and second it is a good angle for general purpose use whilst not making it too fragile. I would have thought that 18 would also be a good compromise. When I do use a smaller angle I advise the owner to reserve that knife for fine work et al to prevent damaging the knife. All of my sharpening is for home use by non professionals so I rarely use a smaller angle.
#14
General Tormek Questions / Re: Burr removal.....the bane ...
Last post by Rossy66 - Yesterday at 01:06:27 AMQuote from: Basboi85 on May 31, 2026, 11:27:43 PMMay i make a suggestion,That's really helpful and I never thought of deburring that way, it makes sense to me so I'll give it a try. Always willing to learn.
I'm probably going to get some stick for this but this is what I do.
When I hone freehand on the tormek I don't hone at the top of the wheel,
I hone if you imagine the honing wheel a clock,
I hone at the 3oclock position, that way I can see directly when the edge meets the honing wheel and ever so slightly tilt the apex so the very tip gets more of the honing,
I should also mention that when I get to honing I do own a t1 and a t8,
I use the t1 composite wheel to do the initial rough removal of the burr ( say 2/3 passes each side using medium to light pressure)
After then checking to see how much burr is left that I can feel on my thumbnail I'll then do the same again but literally light to just touching pressure on the t8 leather wheel and do again maybe another 2-3 passes with green compound.
If I still need to do more passes I'll do little to next to no pressure until I cant feel any burr.
I'll then wipe the edge clean and do a couple of again next to no pressure on a paddle strop.
I'll then test the edge on thin paper like phone book paper/thin till receipt paper and then rizzla green.
I sharpen my knives to 17 dps on the SG stone,
I don't have expensive knives atm ( I own knives from ikea ( vőrda range),
I have sharpened family global knives the same and have achieved the same results for what my 50p is worth
#15
General Tormek Questions / Re: Burr removal.....the bane ...
Last post by Basboi85 - May 31, 2026, 11:27:43 PMMay i make a suggestion,
I'm probably going to get some stick for this but this is what I do.
When I hone freehand on the tormek I don't hone at the top of the wheel,
I hone if you imagine the honing wheel a clock,
I hone at the 3oclock position, that way I can see directly when the edge meets the honing wheel and ever so slightly tilt the apex so the very tip gets more of the honing,
I should also mention that when I get to honing I do own a t1 and a t8,
I use the t1 composite wheel to do the initial rough removal of the burr ( say 2/3 passes each side using medium to light pressure)
After then checking to see how much burr is left that I can feel on my thumbnail I'll then do the same again but literally light to just touching pressure on the t8 leather wheel and do again maybe another 2-3 passes with green compound.
If I still need to do more passes I'll do little to next to no pressure until I cant feel any burr.
I'll then wipe the edge clean and do a couple of again next to no pressure on a paddle strop.
I'll then test the edge on thin paper like phone book paper/thin till receipt paper and then rizzla green.
I sharpen my knives to 17 dps on the SG stone,
I don't have expensive knives atm ( I own knives from ikea ( vőrda range),
I have sharpened family global knives the same and have achieved the same results for what my 50p is worth
I'm probably going to get some stick for this but this is what I do.
When I hone freehand on the tormek I don't hone at the top of the wheel,
I hone if you imagine the honing wheel a clock,
I hone at the 3oclock position, that way I can see directly when the edge meets the honing wheel and ever so slightly tilt the apex so the very tip gets more of the honing,
I should also mention that when I get to honing I do own a t1 and a t8,
I use the t1 composite wheel to do the initial rough removal of the burr ( say 2/3 passes each side using medium to light pressure)
After then checking to see how much burr is left that I can feel on my thumbnail I'll then do the same again but literally light to just touching pressure on the t8 leather wheel and do again maybe another 2-3 passes with green compound.
If I still need to do more passes I'll do little to next to no pressure until I cant feel any burr.
I'll then wipe the edge clean and do a couple of again next to no pressure on a paddle strop.
I'll then test the edge on thin paper like phone book paper/thin till receipt paper and then rizzla green.
I sharpen my knives to 17 dps on the SG stone,
I don't have expensive knives atm ( I own knives from ikea ( vőrda range),
I have sharpened family global knives the same and have achieved the same results for what my 50p is worth
#16
Knife Sharpening / Choosing a default angle
Last post by Rossy66 - May 31, 2026, 03:12:59 PMI have had my business up and running for just over 2 months now and although its doing quite well, I have a question for the forum that I know docent have a absolute answer but I will ask it anyway for guidance. I get a lot of knives that are in bad shape and although I have been looking up the website of the knife maker or Googling the answer, I try to put the factory recommended angle on it or a default 18° and was wondering if anyone who sharpens for the public chooses a different angle?
In all honesty, I would like to have a more "standard" angle to sharpen customers knives except for very specific knives that require a specific angle (As an ex chef, I use Japanese knives and sharpen most of them at 15° and have some as low as 12°) and I am wondering if the standard 18° should be lower, possibly 15°? I understand that this may leave less material behind the edge and most cheap knives wont stay sharp for long so is there a compromise edge angle? Any input would be most welcome.
In all honesty, I would like to have a more "standard" angle to sharpen customers knives except for very specific knives that require a specific angle (As an ex chef, I use Japanese knives and sharpen most of them at 15° and have some as low as 12°) and I am wondering if the standard 18° should be lower, possibly 15°? I understand that this may leave less material behind the edge and most cheap knives wont stay sharp for long so is there a compromise edge angle? Any input would be most welcome.
#17
General Tormek Questions / Re: Leakey Tormek
Last post by Dan - May 31, 2026, 09:13:44 AMMy choice was a very cheap (6 euros!) and sturdy gardening tray which has been excellent 
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5458.msg39853.html#msg39853
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5458.msg39853.html#msg39853
#18
General Tormek Questions / Re: Leakey Tormek
Last post by Sir Amwell - May 31, 2026, 02:02:06 AMAdjust your workspace to accommodate water. Spills. Drips. Leakages.
Drip trays. Well positioned towels. Absorbent, dry able flooring.
It's the nature of the beast being water cooled grinding.
I'd prefer water all over the place to dry breathable dust everywhere!
Your machine isn't leaking. It's performing.
Drip trays. Well positioned towels. Absorbent, dry able flooring.
It's the nature of the beast being water cooled grinding.
I'd prefer water all over the place to dry breathable dust everywhere!
Your machine isn't leaking. It's performing.
#19
Knife Sharpening / Re: Grit reccomendations for c...
Last post by BPalv - May 30, 2026, 08:02:30 PMQuote from: kwakster on May 28, 2026, 12:13:15 PMThe 1200 grit CBN wheel will most certainly grind an initial edge on ceramic knives, but that edge will be completely unusable due to chipping (even with careful use)Thank's for the intel...
For most commercial work after creating an initial edge on the SB-250 Blackstone i refine on a first Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound (edge is still unusable after this), and then at least up to 6 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel.
When there are no large chips i often only use the 15 and 6 micron Paper Wheels.
Further refinement with 3 micron diamond compound on a third Paper Wheel or even 1 micron diamond compound on a fourth Paper Wheel leads to a noticeable keener edge as well as much longer edge longevity.
The problem is of course that this also takes much more time, so after a lot of experimenting & testing i have found refinement up to 6 micron to be a good balance of edge keenness & longevity, and time spent sharpening/polishing.
Also: i avoid working on cheap ceramic knives, these are not worth it.
These days i only do quality ceramics.
Maybe this older thread is also helpful:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5672.0.html
#20
General Tormek Questions / Re: Leakey Tormek
Last post by Ken S - May 30, 2026, 07:54:49 PMWelcome to the forum, Jack.
The Tormek machines do not leak. However, there can be some spillage. Years ago, I spent a full day observing the Tormek demonstrators at a woodworking show. I paid particular attention to the amount of spillage throughout the day. The Tormeks were set up on a very expensive new Swedish workbench, with only a single layer of cardboard to protect the bench stop. I was surprised that only a few drops of water spilled out during the day. I attributed this to several things:
1) There was only enough water in the water trough for efficient wet grinding. The SG-250 will absorb water until it is saturated. At saturation, no more water is needed. As a lifelong photo darkroom user, I habitually use graduates. Inexpensive plastic kitchen graduates work well. Turn on your Tormek and pay attention to how much water is needed to reach absortion. Overfilling will cause spillage.
2) Spillage can happen when dumping the water trough. One of our members came up with a clever, inexpensive solution. A grocery store turkey baster makes a very good siphon. I siphon the water into a recycled plastic peanut butter jar. Imop up the last bit of water and the grinding sludge with a paper towel and rinse out the trough.
3) The tools you sharpen can influence spillage. Narrow blades, like chisels and plane irons keep the sharpening over the trough. Longer knives hang over outside the trough. The Advanced Water Trough has a wider lip and a ramp to catch the spillage. If you sharpen primarily woodworking tools, the regular trough works fine. For an occasional longer knife, a paper towel next to your Tormek will get the job done. If you decide to purchase an AWT, make sure to choose the version for the older machines.
In defense of the expensive Tormek Rubber Work Mat, it is a marvelous luxury. It is thick rubber and manufactured by the same company which makes the tires for the Land Rover. It is a joy to use. That stated, an inexpensive plastic tray will suffice. If I was going to make a stand, I would size the top to accommodate the Tormek RWM whether it was in hand or a possible future purchase.
Enjoy your T2000. It should serve you for many years.
Ken
The Tormek machines do not leak. However, there can be some spillage. Years ago, I spent a full day observing the Tormek demonstrators at a woodworking show. I paid particular attention to the amount of spillage throughout the day. The Tormeks were set up on a very expensive new Swedish workbench, with only a single layer of cardboard to protect the bench stop. I was surprised that only a few drops of water spilled out during the day. I attributed this to several things:
1) There was only enough water in the water trough for efficient wet grinding. The SG-250 will absorb water until it is saturated. At saturation, no more water is needed. As a lifelong photo darkroom user, I habitually use graduates. Inexpensive plastic kitchen graduates work well. Turn on your Tormek and pay attention to how much water is needed to reach absortion. Overfilling will cause spillage.
2) Spillage can happen when dumping the water trough. One of our members came up with a clever, inexpensive solution. A grocery store turkey baster makes a very good siphon. I siphon the water into a recycled plastic peanut butter jar. Imop up the last bit of water and the grinding sludge with a paper towel and rinse out the trough.
3) The tools you sharpen can influence spillage. Narrow blades, like chisels and plane irons keep the sharpening over the trough. Longer knives hang over outside the trough. The Advanced Water Trough has a wider lip and a ramp to catch the spillage. If you sharpen primarily woodworking tools, the regular trough works fine. For an occasional longer knife, a paper towel next to your Tormek will get the job done. If you decide to purchase an AWT, make sure to choose the version for the older machines.
In defense of the expensive Tormek Rubber Work Mat, it is a marvelous luxury. It is thick rubber and manufactured by the same company which makes the tires for the Land Rover. It is a joy to use. That stated, an inexpensive plastic tray will suffice. If I was going to make a stand, I would size the top to accommodate the Tormek RWM whether it was in hand or a possible future purchase.
Enjoy your T2000. It should serve you for many years.
Ken