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Recent posts
#11
Knife Sharpening / Re: Struggling to keep knife f...
Last post by blade runner - January 12, 2026, 06:24:48 AMI have encountered a similar issue about keeping the blade flat on the stone. The blade holder keeps hitting the post of the threaded part of the universal support bar. I am unable to slide the blade holder smoothly along the bar. What should I do to avoid this?
#12
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpen workflow for ‘mid-...
Last post by Sir Amwell - January 11, 2026, 11:32:16 PMClick on my name and select ' send PM '
#13
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpen workflow for ‘mid-...
Last post by WimSpi - January 11, 2026, 07:58:06 PMQuote from: Sir Amwell on January 11, 2026, 01:06:37 AMPM me if you want details of how I do my workflow.
How can I post a PM?
Wim
#14
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpen workflow for ‘mid-...
Last post by WimSpi - January 11, 2026, 07:50:57 PMThanks for this additional information. It gives me a better picture. My goal is to stay below 200 BESS, even if the quality is mediocre. The path you take starts with a good analysis of the knife. I think 20 degrees is fine for a cheaper knife. For the better knives, the grinding angles are well known.
I often start with one or a few passes with the coarse diamond wheel. In my experience, if I don't do that, I end up doing a relatively large number of passes with the medium diamond wheel, which takes too long.
I often start with one or a few passes with the coarse diamond wheel. In my experience, if I don't do that, I end up doing a relatively large number of passes with the medium diamond wheel, which takes too long.
#15
General Tormek Questions / Re: chisel with 25 degrees in ...
Last post by RichColvin - January 11, 2026, 05:58:57 PMWerner,
I worked with a number of people on this forum to design a jig for this which can be 3D printed. Information about it is at: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-ProjectionTTS-100.html.
Kind regards,
Rich
I worked with a number of people on this forum to design a jig for this which can be 3D printed. Information about it is at: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-ProjectionTTS-100.html.
Kind regards,
Rich
#16
General Tormek Questions / chisel with 25 degrees in repe...
Last post by Werner Küspert - January 11, 2026, 03:13:40 PMI want to sharpen a large number of chisels at an angle of 25 degrees.
Does anyone have any advice on how I can set this angle for each chisel with repeatable accuracy?
Does anyone have any advice on how I can set this angle for each chisel with repeatable accuracy?
#17
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpen workflow for ‘mid-...
Last post by Sir Amwell - January 11, 2026, 01:06:37 AMHi Wimpsi.
You are indeed on a journey.
There's no real quick fix and practice will be your friend.
Your work flow questions will be answered by focusing on practice and consistent repeatability for 'mainstream knives' protocols that you develop.
I have found that once you get accustomed to the above you will find a way to efficiently be able to batch your incoming knives and be able to quickly assess which knives need what treatment and then streamline your process to make the most of your precious time to achieve your desired results. At this point it is all about thinking ahead and planning rather than charging in and trying to rush things.
You will get there, be assured.
PM me if you want details of how I do my workflow.
One thing though from previous comments, what do you want to achieve?
If sub 200 Bess is your goal then sell out and do all your sharpening on belt grinders and go for volume rather than quality.
If sub 120 Bess is your goal, indicating complete burr removal (quality) then stick with Tormek. It is easily achievable and a quality of results that will be really appreciated by your customers, if they are worthwhile customers.
Once you get a set of protocols to meet under 120 Bess the testing becomes irrelevant on the Bess tester and a green rizla paper will be the only test you need.
Keep going!
You are indeed on a journey.
There's no real quick fix and practice will be your friend.
Your work flow questions will be answered by focusing on practice and consistent repeatability for 'mainstream knives' protocols that you develop.
I have found that once you get accustomed to the above you will find a way to efficiently be able to batch your incoming knives and be able to quickly assess which knives need what treatment and then streamline your process to make the most of your precious time to achieve your desired results. At this point it is all about thinking ahead and planning rather than charging in and trying to rush things.
You will get there, be assured.
PM me if you want details of how I do my workflow.
One thing though from previous comments, what do you want to achieve?
If sub 200 Bess is your goal then sell out and do all your sharpening on belt grinders and go for volume rather than quality.
If sub 120 Bess is your goal, indicating complete burr removal (quality) then stick with Tormek. It is easily achievable and a quality of results that will be really appreciated by your customers, if they are worthwhile customers.
Once you get a set of protocols to meet under 120 Bess the testing becomes irrelevant on the Bess tester and a green rizla paper will be the only test you need.
Keep going!
#18
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpen workflow for ‘mid-...
Last post by BPalv - January 10, 2026, 06:22:41 PMWim,
1) I sharpen the cheap stuff at 20 degrees. I sharpened a cheap knife at 15 degrees and could see the apex flexing as I ran a fingernail along it. Another cheapie dented when I tested it with a BESS tester at 15 degrees. My thought process is quality knives can withstand a 15 or even a 12 degree angle in the kitchen due to hardness and the physical makeup of the steel, but cheap steel is more apt to crush or deform at 15 degrees.
I grind Quality kitchen knives to 15 degrees or whatever the manufacturer recommends. (Shun 16 degrees). I never change profiles without discussing it with the customer first.
2) Workflow. If I have a batch I'm working on the first thing I do is repair any shape issues. Bellies, broken tips, bolsters etc. I usually work from the smallest/cheapest to the longest high quality. I put as many knives in jigs as I have. As I approach each knife I determine the grit or types of stones and grind different stones in batches. I use an 80, 400 and 1000 diamond plates to change the grit on the stone as needed but try to leave it in some mid-range grit.
Use a light touch alternating sides keeping the knife moving slowly.
After I'm 100% positive I've raised a burr I move on to Honing. I make as few passes on the honing wheel as possible at a slightly higher angle than you ground. (different steels behave differently). You can stop honing as soon as the burr is gone the entire length. (I check by shining a BRIGHT flashlight from the back of the blade and feel) You can hone more to increase sharpness with a very light touch but the more you hone, the more you smooth out the teeth. On high quality kitchen knives I follow the Tormek honing wheel with a 1 mu TDT diamond coated honing wheel at the exact angle. Finally, on most knives I make one pass on a 1x30 leather belt with no compound for the final cleanup.(a hanging strop works well but takes practice). With any luck your blade will be under 200 BESS. If you've done everything perfectly, under 100 BESS. If not under 170 or so double check for a burr.
Other tips: take notes of everything, light pressure, practice, read, watch videos, practice, light pressure, practice, read, light pressure, practice...
You can create crazy sharp apexes with very little extra equipment. It's all about having a good knowledge base and practice. The single piece of equipment I purchased ( other than the T8) that shortened my journey was a BESS sharpness tester. I can quantify my results. No more guessing if it's razor sharp or not. Does 5, 10 or 20 passes on a strop improve sharpness?, what emulsion performs the way you want? Without something to quantify your results you'll be shaving your arm and cutting paper to guess how sharp it is. Depends on what you want to focus on.
You'll want something to see the apex, a loupe, magnifying glass and or a microscope. If you are going to be setting any angles to a specific angle you'll need either the KS-123 or a quality set of long calipers or both. The KS-123 does work. I get about a one degree variance using the KS-123. For everyday knives it works fine and easily produces edges under 200. For high end knives I still measure.
Read "Knife Deburring".
I run a very small business and spend a lot of time on the knives I sharpen. I do not do "volume" sharpening. Depending on what your plans are, maybe a volume sharpener or farmer's market sharpener would share their workflow.
Have fun on your journey.
1) I sharpen the cheap stuff at 20 degrees. I sharpened a cheap knife at 15 degrees and could see the apex flexing as I ran a fingernail along it. Another cheapie dented when I tested it with a BESS tester at 15 degrees. My thought process is quality knives can withstand a 15 or even a 12 degree angle in the kitchen due to hardness and the physical makeup of the steel, but cheap steel is more apt to crush or deform at 15 degrees.
I grind Quality kitchen knives to 15 degrees or whatever the manufacturer recommends. (Shun 16 degrees). I never change profiles without discussing it with the customer first.
2) Workflow. If I have a batch I'm working on the first thing I do is repair any shape issues. Bellies, broken tips, bolsters etc. I usually work from the smallest/cheapest to the longest high quality. I put as many knives in jigs as I have. As I approach each knife I determine the grit or types of stones and grind different stones in batches. I use an 80, 400 and 1000 diamond plates to change the grit on the stone as needed but try to leave it in some mid-range grit.
Use a light touch alternating sides keeping the knife moving slowly.
After I'm 100% positive I've raised a burr I move on to Honing. I make as few passes on the honing wheel as possible at a slightly higher angle than you ground. (different steels behave differently). You can stop honing as soon as the burr is gone the entire length. (I check by shining a BRIGHT flashlight from the back of the blade and feel) You can hone more to increase sharpness with a very light touch but the more you hone, the more you smooth out the teeth. On high quality kitchen knives I follow the Tormek honing wheel with a 1 mu TDT diamond coated honing wheel at the exact angle. Finally, on most knives I make one pass on a 1x30 leather belt with no compound for the final cleanup.(a hanging strop works well but takes practice). With any luck your blade will be under 200 BESS. If you've done everything perfectly, under 100 BESS. If not under 170 or so double check for a burr.
Other tips: take notes of everything, light pressure, practice, read, watch videos, practice, light pressure, practice, read, light pressure, practice...
You can create crazy sharp apexes with very little extra equipment. It's all about having a good knowledge base and practice. The single piece of equipment I purchased ( other than the T8) that shortened my journey was a BESS sharpness tester. I can quantify my results. No more guessing if it's razor sharp or not. Does 5, 10 or 20 passes on a strop improve sharpness?, what emulsion performs the way you want? Without something to quantify your results you'll be shaving your arm and cutting paper to guess how sharp it is. Depends on what you want to focus on.
You'll want something to see the apex, a loupe, magnifying glass and or a microscope. If you are going to be setting any angles to a specific angle you'll need either the KS-123 or a quality set of long calipers or both. The KS-123 does work. I get about a one degree variance using the KS-123. For everyday knives it works fine and easily produces edges under 200. For high end knives I still measure.
Read "Knife Deburring".
I run a very small business and spend a lot of time on the knives I sharpen. I do not do "volume" sharpening. Depending on what your plans are, maybe a volume sharpener or farmer's market sharpener would share their workflow.
Have fun on your journey.
#19
Knife Sharpening / Re: Struggling to keep knife f...
Last post by BPalv - January 10, 2026, 05:10:40 PMI believe that is part of the journey. I started belt sanders/sharpeners. With those you aren't fighting the "facets" that are created on the bevel by uneven grinding in most cases. As you learn to read "the bump" and grind without excessive pressure your bevels will clean up and you'll be generating the nice shiny even bevels that the machine is capable of and we all love. The Tormek is more "artsy" than belt grinders in my humble opinion and it takes most folks practice to become proficient. Honestly, I've been working on this style machine for several years and am still learning new and improved techniques.
One other comment... light is your friend. I have my Tormek area lit up like road show. Nothing gets by without me seeing it. The shadow under my blade shows me if I'm laying my blade on the stone flat.
One other comment... light is your friend. I have my Tormek area lit up like road show. Nothing gets by without me seeing it. The shadow under my blade shows me if I'm laying my blade on the stone flat.
#20
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpen workflow for ‘mid-...
Last post by WimSpi - January 10, 2026, 04:55:23 PMThanks for the responses. I'm going to look for some videos. Personally, I think pressure does make a difference. But you have to be careful not to apply too much pressure when placing the knife on the stone, especially when using a coarse diamond stone. If you press too hard, you can easily cause deep damage to the cutting edge. I usually place several fingers across the entire width of the knife. Actually, you should only use one finger when placing the knife and only press the knife onto the wheel in the middle of the stone. Then you can add the other fingers.