Recent posts

#11

Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle

Last post by Rossy66 - June 02, 2026, 02:24:53 AM

For my customers I do 15dps. No one knows the difference between 15 and 20 and the edge lasts longer for them.

Thanks

#12

Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle

Last post by John_B - June 01, 2026, 10:33:25 PM

For my customers I do 15dps. No one knows the difference between 15 and 20 and the edge lasts longer for them.

#13

Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle

Last post by Rossy66 - June 01, 2026, 06:54:35 PM

I used to sharpen @20dps a long time ago. Then I came across Wootz's litterature and decided to give 15dps a try.

It has been my standard since. I made comparisons using the same knife model sharpened at 20 dps and 15dps, the 20 dps got dull significantly faster. I have not noticed 15dps being too fragile for standard to fairly high quality knives.

That's interesting, I am currently doing some tests between 18�° 16° to see how long the knife edge lasts. My main concern is that the knife stays sharp for a decent period of time (a couple of months with daily use) value for money is my goal as I want the customers to keep coming back and feel they got their moneys worth.

#14

Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle

Last post by Rossy66 - June 01, 2026, 06:49:22 PM

I used to sharpen @20dps a long time ago. Then I came across Wootz's litterature and decided to give 15dps a try.

It has been my standard since. I made comparisons using the same knife model sharpened at 20 dps and 15dps, the 20 dps got dull significantly faster. I have not noticed 15dps being too fragile for standard to fairly high quality knives.

So do you feel your customers knives keep their sharpness long enough to their satisfaction? 

#15

Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle

Last post by Royale - June 01, 2026, 05:11:06 PM

Considering almost every knife handed to me by customers are at the tail end of trying almost every other gadget and sharpening service prior, there's never any sharpening angle to duplicate.

Kitchen knives: 15 DPS
Cleavers: 17 DPS
Fancy Japanese knives: 12-15 DPS
General use and fabric scissors: 60 DPS

I typically measure the behind edge thickness (knives only) and aim for a secondary bevel height between 1-2mm.

So far this framework seems to balance a smooth flow from the secondary to primary bevels, as well as edge retention for at least a few months for average 55-58 HRC steel.

#16

Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle

Last post by Sir Amwell - June 01, 2026, 11:32:02 AM

15 degrees/side unless a customer asks for something specific (they very rarely do).

#17

Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle

Last post by tgbto - June 01, 2026, 09:32:40 AM

I used to sharpen @20dps a long time ago. Then I came across Wootz's litterature and decided to give 15dps a try.

It has been my standard since. I made comparisons using the same knife model sharpened at 20 dps and 15dps, the 20 dps got dull significantly faster. I have not noticed 15dps being too fragile for standard to fairly high quality knives.

#18

Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle

Last post by John Hancock Sr - June 01, 2026, 08:43:11 AM

I am not a professional so take my advice as it comes. My approach is to select a default of 20. The reason is two fold. First, the majority of general purpose kitchen knives recommend that angle, and second it is a good angle for general purpose use whilst not making it too fragile. I would have thought that 18 would also be a good compromise. When I do use a smaller angle I advise the owner to reserve that knife for fine work et al to prevent damaging the knife. All of my sharpening is for home use by non professionals so I rarely use a smaller angle.

#19

General Tormek Questions / Re: Burr removal.....the bane ...

Last post by Rossy66 - June 01, 2026, 01:06:27 AM

May i make a suggestion,

I'm probably going to get some stick for this but this is what I do.

When I hone freehand on the tormek I don't hone at the top of the wheel,

I hone if you imagine the honing wheel a clock,

I hone at the 3oclock position, that way I can see directly when the edge meets the honing wheel and ever so slightly tilt the apex so the very tip gets more of the honing,

I should also mention that when I get to honing I do own a t1 and a t8,

I use the t1 composite wheel to do the initial rough removal of the burr ( say 2/3 passes each side using medium to light pressure)

After then checking to see how much burr is left that I can feel on my thumbnail I'll then do the same again but literally light to just touching pressure on the t8 leather wheel and do again maybe another 2-3 passes with green compound.

If I still need to do more passes I'll do little to next to no pressure until I cant feel any burr.

I'll then wipe the edge clean and do a couple of again next to no pressure on a paddle strop.

I'll then test the edge on thin paper like phone book paper/thin till receipt paper and then rizzla green.

I sharpen my knives to 17 dps on the SG stone,

I don't have expensive knives atm ( I own knives from ikea ( vőrda range),

I have sharpened  family global knives the same  and have achieved the same results for what my 50p is worth

That's really helpful and I never thought of deburring that way, it makes sense to me so I'll give it a try. Always willing to learn.

#20

General Tormek Questions / Re: Burr removal.....the bane ...

Last post by Basboi85 - May 31, 2026, 11:27:43 PM

May i make a suggestion,

I'm probably going to get some stick for this but this is what I do.

When I hone freehand on the tormek I don't hone at the top of the wheel,

I hone if you imagine the honing wheel a clock,

I hone at the 3oclock position, that way I can see directly when the edge meets the honing wheel and ever so slightly tilt the apex so the very tip gets more of the honing,

I should also mention that when I get to honing I do own a t1 and a t8,

I use the t1 composite wheel to do the initial rough removal of the burr ( say 2/3 passes each side using medium to light pressure)

After then checking to see how much burr is left that I can feel on my thumbnail I'll then do the same again but literally light to just touching pressure on the t8 leather wheel and do again maybe another 2-3 passes with green compound.

If I still need to do more passes I'll do little to next to no pressure until I cant feel any burr.

I'll then wipe the edge clean and do a couple of again next to no pressure on a paddle strop.

I'll then test the edge on thin paper like phone book paper/thin till receipt paper and then rizzla green.

I sharpen my knives to 17 dps on the SG stone,

I don't have expensive knives atm ( I own knives from ikea ( vőrda range),

I have sharpened  family global knives the same  and have achieved the same results for what my 50p is worth