News:

Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.
www.tormek.com

Main Menu

Recent posts

#11
General Tormek Questions / Re: Shutting down
Last post by Rjje - Yesterday at 10:55:58 PM
Quote from: John_B on Yesterday at 10:43:41 PMContact support and ask them. They will sort it out.

Not something that should be happening.
[/quot
Thanks i will do that tomorrow 👍
#12
General Tormek Questions / Re: Shutting down
Last post by John_B - Yesterday at 10:43:41 PM
Contact support and ask them. They will sort it out.

Not something that should be happening.
#13
General Tormek Questions / Re: T-4 Limescale Cleaning
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 09:53:50 PM
Welcome to the forum, Ballacado. My first question is, do you drink this water? If not, why would you allow it to be used in your Tormek?

I apologize if this sounds harsh; it just looks like your employees have seriously abused your Tormek. I suggest you email your question and photos to support
([email protected]).

Good luck.

Ken
#14
General Tormek Questions / Shutting down
Last post by Rjje - Yesterday at 09:25:55 PM
Hello,

I have a brand new Tormek T-8. After about one hour of use, it suddenly stops. The motor is completely dead and makes no sound at all. After approximately five minutes, it starts working again by itself.

The motor housing is only slightly warm, not hot, and the grinding wheel turns freely by hand when the machine has stopped.

I have sharpened around 20–30 knives and have probably used fairly heavy pressure while grinding.

Is this normal behavior, or could there be a fault with the machine?

Thank you.
#15
General Tormek Questions / Re: T-4 Limescale Cleaning
Last post by Dan - July 25, 2026, 02:19:22 PM
I haven't got any expereience with this on my T8 but limescale is easily removed by soaking in Acid.
Not sure if any of the parts you want to treat are OK to soak or not.
The time needed depends on the strength of the acid you may use and the amount of limescale.
Lemon Juice and vinegar all the way up to more potent treatments are available
https://www.dynapipe.co.uk/how-to-remove-limescale.htm
#16
General Tormek Questions / T-4 Limescale Cleaning
Last post by bacallado - July 25, 2026, 01:18:20 PM
Hi there to everyone. First post here and is asking for knowledge on how to get out of a messy situation.

My T-4 has been left to its own devices, used by not so careful employees and most importantly, and in hindsight, used with a very strong tap water containing lots of scale that has left an indelible mark in the machine. Now I wonder if people who lives in areas with such a type of water uses bottled water to avoid these issues?

When I started fixing the machine my first trouble was getting the SG-200 grindstone out, as the ezylock was completely stuck and no standard procedure or pliers would unstuck it. As it turns out, I had to end cutting the plastic ezylock with a saw just to realise it won't come off because the grindstone was stuck in the shaft, like if the stone itself has grown and the tolerance between stone and shaft doesn't exist anymore. Eventually and using moderate force brute, I managed to get the stone out.

As you can see in the pictures the stone has a lot of color variations due to, I assume, limescale buildup. I try to wash it with clean water but it won't go away.





-So my first question will be: what will be the best way to bring back the stone to an acceptable looking condition? Any known way to remove the limescale marks?

Moving onto the next issue, the machine head is also heavily affected by limescale probably beyond the possibility of bringing it back to the original state. The close ups look like remains of the titanic´s hull.



I disassembled as much as I could but information on how to remove the motor assembly from the head is scarce and I don't want to mess this. If anybody know how to take these two bits apart, it would be great so I can clean the head properly.





I can´t find any retailers that have the head part for replacement although it has part number in the parts diagram. That would be the best solution if the price makes sense.

-Otherwise, what you guys reckon would be the best way to make this part look better that this sad state is in? I tried a bit if vinegar and sponge, but as the motor assembly is so close to it, it doesnt make the best setup for a deep cleaning. Maybe submerging the entire part in a de-scaler product + sanding?





Please hit me up with ideas if you have ever experienced this problem with your machines!
Also, open to buy a machine head replacement if anyone has one laying around  ;D
#17
General Tormek Questions / Re: What is the height of the ...
Last post by KaithyHong - July 25, 2026, 08:24:54 AM
One thing that's helped me is making very small adjustments and then testing on a cheap blade before touching anything important. It's surprising how much difference a tiny tweak can make. Once everything is dialled in, the repeatability is one of the best parts of using a Tormek.
#18
General Tormek Questions / Re: Review of the Tormek TS-74...
Last post by John_B - July 24, 2026, 06:08:00 PM
seems like a political post
#19
General Tormek Questions / Re: T8 user, starting to get b...
Last post by av8r - July 23, 2026, 08:08:46 PM
Quote from: John_B on July 23, 2026, 07:08:52 PMIf you are sharpening customer's knives I would recommend against altering the bolster unless you have shown them what it will look like and have written authorization. Some knives also have a hollow bolster that you could grind into. The other thing I do to prevent scratching is to use painter's tape beneath the clamping area.

No customers, just our knives and those from friends/family.  No charge, ever. 
"Never make your hobby your work" or something like that.
#20
General Tormek Questions / Re: test
Last post by John_B - July 23, 2026, 07:10:33 PM
Quote from: KaithyHong on July 23, 2026, 11:43:53 AMOne thing that's helped me is making small adjustments and testing the edge after each pass instead of trying to correct everything at once. It makes it much easier to dial in the setup and avoid removing more material than necessary.

I think you posted in the wrong thread