Recent posts

#11

General Tormek Questions / DF-200

Last post by GDuster - February 19, 2026, 08:24:25 PM

I recently bought a Df-200 wheel for my T1200 and see in the description that it can be use wet (with the additive) or dry.
Can anyone tell me what the difference in performance is between wet and dry?
Thanks
Phil

#12

Gardening Tools / Re: Approach to sharpening law...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - February 19, 2026, 04:20:09 AM

Lawnmower blades are very forgiving and any sharpening will be infinitely better than how they come from the factory. I have typically used an angle grinder in the past. However a flat single cut file will produce as fine an edge as you will ever need. I would not even bother with the tormek to be honest.

#13

Knife Sharpening / Re: Dc-250 - Df-250 - Sg-250?

Last post by John Hancock Sr - February 19, 2026, 04:14:41 AM

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. But do you mean that aluminum oxide won't cut mentioned steels?

Yes and no. It is a matter of hardness. More specifically MOHS hardness. There are different forms of harness but it is MOHS hardness which determines the abrasive for each material. In the MOHS hardness cscale each material is given a number form 0 to 10, 10 being diamond and 0 being talc. For an abrasive to be able to sharpen it has to have a higher MOHS hardness that the material being sharpened.

For steels it depends on the composition and the temper. Different steels of ther same composition will have different harnesses depending on the temper. Knives often consist of several different steels so you may easily be able to sharpen the casing but have difficulty with the core.

Aluminium oxide has a range of MOHS hardness depending on the impurities but in general it can harden carbon steels but not so much high speed steel. So it will vary. When I was sharpening a very hard Japanese knife, my HSS thicknesser blades or my HSS drill bits the SH wheel glazed rapidly. It did cut the steel but was very slow and the wheel had to be constantly graded. It proved to be extremely inefficient. The issue was that the steel had a higher MOHS hardness than those steels. It may have been that the steel fell into the range of the softer to harder particles within the SG wheel this glazed rapidly.

The glazing happens when the steel being sharpened breaks the grit down since it is harder than the grit and you end up with a smooth wheel unable to cut the steel. This is an indication that the wheel is too soft.

Bottom line is that for efficient sharpening you need a harder grit that the material being sharpened.

#14

General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...

Last post by Rossy66 - February 18, 2026, 10:59:53 PM

I'm also looking at this model, it's more expensive but gets fantastic reviews so I may go with this.

https://tomlov.com/products/tomlov-dm602-pro-10-1-inch-hdmi-digital-microscope

#15

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by Dan - February 18, 2026, 08:07:15 PM

Sorry typo. Weekly ads. We get them from local stores in the mail. They are printed on thin newsprint. Sharp knives glide through smoothly. Use feel and hearing to detect any burr along the edge.

I am relieved, thanks for the clarification 

#16

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by John_B - February 18, 2026, 06:28:30 PM

Sorry typo. Weekly ads. We get them from local stores in the mail. They are printed on thin newsprint. Sharp knives glide through smoothly. Use feel and hearing to detect any burr along the edge.

#17

General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...

Last post by RickKrung - February 18, 2026, 05:47:40 PM

I found this video on a YouTuber I follow and found it really interesting. I think I will invest in one.

https://youtu.be/wBGcfj6-J7Q?si=9domZyoAHvqYgvQr

That looks to be a good solution. Highly featured and good images. However, it is no longer available at the link below the video.  What is available is a larger screened one at $178. 

But, the one thing I took particular note of is the clear plastic shroud that he emphasizes.  Thumbs up.  That is precisely why I like the Kingmas hand microscope so much, maintains focus and the knife can be rotated, etc.  If it were available at the $60 price, I might be tempted. 

I'll watch his video reviewing the higher priced one to see if it has a similar shroud.  Without that, I think it would be a no go.

#18

General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...

Last post by Rossy66 - February 18, 2026, 02:55:51 PM

I found this video on a YouTuber I follow and found it really interesting. I think I will invest in one.

https://youtu.be/wBGcfj6-J7Q?si=9domZyoAHvqYgvQr

#19

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by Dan - February 18, 2026, 08:19:52 AM

Thermal receipts and weekly ass printed on thin newsprint paper are also good indicators....

John, as a native English speaker I have no idea what "weekly ass" is    
I imagine it is lost on Andy and others whose first language is not English.
I am slightly intrigued but not sure I really want to know at the same time   

Danny

#20

General Tormek Questions / Re: Microscope to check burr r...

Last post by RickKrung - February 18, 2026, 01:40:44 AM

...snip...
Might work, but a lot of bother to set up and occupy space, unless its already set up near your sharpening station.  It may also depend on what you are hoping to do, such as moving the knife bevel along to get a view of more than just a small portion.  I tried looking a knife bevel, but found at that magnification, it was difficult to keep the bevel in the picture - tiny movements are magnified along with the object. 

I have a setup for scanning (copying/digitizing) negatives, slides and prints using a Nikon D780 and a either a Nikkor 60mm or 105mm Macro lens.  Takes great photos, but I would much rather be using the hand microscope I posted about earlier.
...snip...

That's a nice setup

Thanks.  In the world of digital camera scanning of negatives & slides, its relatively basic, but quite good enough for my needs.  Pipe stand, Manfroto Super Clamp, Benro 3-way geared tripod head, NISI focusing rail.  Even with all this, it is easy to have errant vibrations that can cause an image to be out of focus.  For instance, the floor in the room where it is, is not all that solid, and while my workbench is, even a little weight shift by me on the floor in front of it all can result in damaging vibrations.

Just to be clear, the image of the knife bevel was not shot with the digital camera. Rather it is what I see through the Kingmas hand microscope.  I don't have any images of knives taken with the digital camera because I just don't bother with it, the Kingmas is much easier and gives me the information I need.

If anyone is interested in more on close-up and macro photography, the absolute best references I've found are the two books by Lester Lefkowitz.  I have gotten rid of everything else.