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Recent posts
#11
General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening a curved herb k...
Last post by RichColvin - June 22, 2026, 11:25:06 PMWhat about using the MB-102 Multi-Base with the KJ-45? Then, as noted by Rick, the side of the grinding wheel can be used.
#12
General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening a curved herb k...
Last post by RickKrung - June 22, 2026, 05:17:20 PMCan you do it using just the USB, right up close to the wheel? Would provide vertical support. You'd have to regulate the angle "freehand" but the handles should give you a good "handle" on that.
#13
General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening a curved herb k...
Last post by tgbto - June 22, 2026, 08:30:53 AMI would give it a try freehand. Not much you can do aside from that.
#14
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / 10% limited time sale on some ...
Last post by Ken S - June 21, 2026, 08:13:07 PMSee more details in Tormek General subforum.
Ken
Ken
#15
General Tormek Questions / 10% off sale limited time T8 a...
Last post by Ken S - June 21, 2026, 08:09:02 PMI received an email today from Sharpening Supplies advising me about a limited time 10% sale on T8 and some T1.
Ken
Ken
#16
General Tormek Questions / Sharpening a curved herb knife
Last post by Btc - June 21, 2026, 12:44:08 PMHi forum.
Hoping someone could give me a hint about how to sharpen this knife.
The handles are in the way whatever I try to do. Does anyone have a trick for sharpening this kind of knife?
Thanks for any help 😊
Hoping someone could give me a hint about how to sharpen this knife.
The handles are in the way whatever I try to do. Does anyone have a trick for sharpening this kind of knife?
Thanks for any help 😊
#17
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: FIN-BORE CUTTERS
Last post by RichColvin - June 19, 2026, 10:58:01 PMYou should try: The SVD-110 Tool Rest would probably work well. If not, a platform jig (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-Platform.html) may be useful.
#18
Hand Tool Woodworking / FIN-BORE CUTTERS
Last post by LAffuteur - June 19, 2026, 07:43:17 PMHello everyone, has anyone ever sharpened 6-inch or 8-inch ice auger blades on a T8? These are blades that curve inward.If so, does it work well?
Merci thanks
Tommy
https://www.rapala.ca/ca_en/fin-bore-replacement-cutters
Merci thanks
Tommy
https://www.rapala.ca/ca_en/fin-bore-replacement-cutters
#19
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by tgbto - June 18, 2026, 02:41:06 PMQuote from: Ken S on June 18, 2026, 12:18:52 PMMy question is, if the KS123 is not satisfactory for high volume such as "weekend warrior" farmers market sharpeners, what is satisfactory?
The way I see it, a sharpener at a farmer's market will not reset the angle but rather reproduce the existing one using the sharpie method. If one wants to reset the angle to, say, manufacturer's specs then the KS-123 will do just fine but my gut feeling is it's not going to be the majority of cases.
When I'm talking about high volume sharpening, I'm thinking more of a "I want to sharpen these 10 knives @15dps". In that case, KJs, vernier calipers and a calculator/Dutchman's tables/a simple arccos+arcctan formula are a bliss.
#20
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by kwakster - June 18, 2026, 12:59:51 PMMy own rule of thumb: as thin as possible, but thick enough.
30 degrees inclusive (15 degrees per side) is my upper limit, if a certain steel cannot handle this angle i have no use for it.
My Cold Steel machetes in extremely tough 1055 steel @ 56 HRC have hand convex ground edges of ~30 degrees inclusive, while my Condor machetes in still very tough 1075 steel at a little higher hardness also have hand convex ground edges of between ~25 and ~30 degrees inclusive.
With quality Chef knives my aim is ~20 or ~22.5 degrees inclusive.
Cheapies i first grind just as thin, but then apply a microbevel at ~30 degrees inclusive.
I often try to go thinner until the edge fails, then enlarge the edge angle just enough so no damage occurs anymore.
The above goes for tasks a knife is made for, not for abuse by ham-handed / ignorant people.
When sharpening for others an important aspect is to judge with what sort of person you are dealing with, and also what his or her requirements are.
Dialing these two things in correctly often takes time, but especially the professional knife users often appreciate that you are willing (and able) to work with them to find the right combination of edge angle & edge finish that works best and longest for them.
30 degrees inclusive (15 degrees per side) is my upper limit, if a certain steel cannot handle this angle i have no use for it.
My Cold Steel machetes in extremely tough 1055 steel @ 56 HRC have hand convex ground edges of ~30 degrees inclusive, while my Condor machetes in still very tough 1075 steel at a little higher hardness also have hand convex ground edges of between ~25 and ~30 degrees inclusive.
With quality Chef knives my aim is ~20 or ~22.5 degrees inclusive.
Cheapies i first grind just as thin, but then apply a microbevel at ~30 degrees inclusive.
I often try to go thinner until the edge fails, then enlarge the edge angle just enough so no damage occurs anymore.
The above goes for tasks a knife is made for, not for abuse by ham-handed / ignorant people.
When sharpening for others an important aspect is to judge with what sort of person you are dealing with, and also what his or her requirements are.
Dialing these two things in correctly often takes time, but especially the professional knife users often appreciate that you are willing (and able) to work with them to find the right combination of edge angle & edge finish that works best and longest for them.