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Started at 7Pm and finished (3) 6 in. jointer blades at 1 am in the morning. Still couldn't get a perfect line but it was definately better - except the last one. Too much being taken off on the far wheel side. Gave up.
What worked best:
1- Position myself in front of the machine
2- Stops set for middle of wheel both edges. Going past middle produced more problems.
3- Recheck frequently the wear of the stone, and reset jig for parallel jig placement.
4- Do not press hard! - too much leverage produced from the length of the jig.
5- continue going back and forth with very little pressure until there is very little sound heard. Still produced a wavy line.
I'm not pleased at how long this takes.

I've been at it for another 20 minutes. These changes are helping.
1- I put myself at the front of the machine.
2- I adj the stops to within 1/2 inch opposite - but I'll adjust them even farther.
3- I'm frequently regrading the stone with the 220 side.
4- I'm going back and forth repeatedly. I still do not have an even line, though it's getting very close. One side is still too high, starting at the edge to about 3/4 inch in. Frankly I'm afraid to adjust the thumbwheels again.

I retrued the wheel. Confirmed that the base jig will lay flat across the entire surface (had a thumbwheel difference of '4'). I wasn't willing to take off half a thumbwheel (Jeff's suggestion) because I've already taken these blades down pretty far with all of the problems I'm having. $54 for the set of 3. Put the blade on the jig, confirmed the setting with the paper across the stone. Turned the both wheels up 2 numbers - the stone will not grind off the edges, continue to get a smile in the blade. I've tried 'playing with the stops', nothing has helped. I've gone back and forth 10 minutes. After finishing the ten minutes the hone wheel side of the stone is lower by .010. I'm placing my hands evenly across the 6 inch blade - I've tried them on the black knobs, & below the black knobs. Far as I know I"m pressing evenly. I'm beginning to suspect a faulty stone that is wearing unevenly - .010 in ten minutes. Is that possible? With that kind of uneven wear (opposite side is not wearing like the hone wheel side) I can't see how I'm going to get the blades to be straight. Another couple of hours shot. I await further instructions. I'll try grinding them at the existing setting for another 10 minutes in case I'm not doing it long enough.

Fair enough, and I'll try it just as you say. I'm hopeful this jig will work as well as the others.

I never thought of that. On the jointer blades I don't think that's necessary because there are adjusters for each blade. But on my planer I have no adjusters. So looks like I'll have to go back and do each side of each blade to get them matched. Nuts!!

Sorry for ventilating  .
Is it normal after doing 3 jointer blades and 1 double edge planer blade to have to true the wheel 3 times during the proceess?
Is it normal for the wheel to wear at the edges, more so on the hone wheel side, rather then evenly across?
My wheel went from 248 to 245 mm in this session, is that normal?
Do you have to check for trueness after every pass?

Looking for answers, 'cuz I hate letting things beat me.

Jeff, can you give me some tips on honing?
How much pressure do you use?
Is the last strop lighter then the first?
Can you make a knife dull by honing at the wrong angle?
How do I know if I'm at the right angle when I'm doing it freehand as shown in your video?
How do I know when I need to put more compound on?

I got the chisels sharp though - still waiting for my 3rd cut to heal!
Bill

I was just wondering about a few things in regards to using the stone grader. Should I be concerned about how the stone will wear out- should I put pressure in the middle, front or rear part of the stone as it contacts the supergrind wheel?

How much if any does the stone grader wear out the wheel?

Finally, if you have to do a number of chisels, do you do all of them at 220, and then do all of them at the finer grade, or do you do them one at a time regrading the stone after each chisel?

Jeff, I bought the system from you 2/21/04 at the West Allis State Fair WoodShow. What method would I use to determine accurately if the attachment is out of square with the Tormek base/ holder?
I checked the universal support with a square - one edge on the threaded rod the other on the bar, it's good.
Planer/Jointer Jig: one edge on threaded rod, the other on support plate edge with the plastic strip (part #1) it's off 1/16 inch in 6.75 inches.
Not sure though if that's supposed to be square, though I would think it would have to be. If you send out a new one, would you please check it? I want to make sure this problem isn't caused by me!

Bill

While trying to set up the jointer blades after sharpening I noticed that each blade (3) had a tapered grind, about 1 inch long. All on the same side for each blade. At its widest (outer edge) it's about 1/64th inch.
When I trued the stone with the diamond device, and then switched to the planer / jointer attachment I noticed that the bar didn't really sit square in relation to the wheel - I had to really "force" it down on one side and screw the holder knobs down in order to hold it there. Even after doing that I still wasn't sure if the planer attachment was square to the wheel.

Anybody have a similar problem?
Bill

Having read the book, and planer / jointer jig instructions I don't see what grit the stone should be at when I sharpen my jointer blade. Anyone know?

I just got the tormek system. I noticed on my wifes pinking shears that it's at an angle greater then the 75 degree on the angle gauge. Now what do I do to set this up for sharpening?