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Can you measure the difference, say with a caliper or indicator?  Is it consistent? 

Does it happen with just the vertical USB or also with the horizontal and/or the horzizontal/MB-102 when used as an Frontal Vertical Base?  If so, is the movement in the same direction, that is, is the effect on the projection distance the same? 

I wonder if this movement when tightening the screws is caused by a ridge or burr (unevenness/not flat) on the end of the screws. 

I suspect these screws are produces with what is called "rolling" the threads.  That is, the die that forms the threads uses pressure to create the threads by rolling over the screw shaft.  (In the past, thread were "cut" by using threading dies.)  This rolling process pushes material off the end of the screw, leaving a bit of a divot or crater in the middle.  It is typically uneven, being higher on one side or another. 

This burr will often leave marks and/or burrs on the surface against which the screw tightens.  It is easy to remove and make the end of the screw flat and uniform by filing or grinding.  I do this sometimes when I want the end of the screw to be flat and not marr the tightened surface.  This is common when set screws are tightened on shafts, making it difficult to remove the shafts.  Set screws are actually produced with this "cupped" end as a means to make the grip better.  Set screws are also available with flat ends so that they no not marr the surfaces. 

Wow, now that's some amazing input

*How do you go about cleaning that area?

Once there is a build up use an edge, such as the back of a knife, to clean the wheel. All you are really doing is removing spent compound. After that I use light machine oil, or Ballistol (which I prefer) to re-condition the leather before proceeding. You can also apply neats foot oil which is used for conditioning leather let it soak in overnight before applying the machine oil or ballistol. This will extend the life of the leather.

Interesting thank you I will definitely pick up both those products as well as back up

I'm also finding a difficult to do controlled honing with the same USB height measurements while using the MB-102. Naturally, because the leather wheels diameter is smaller than the 250 diamond. Is the only way to fine-tune this measurement by utilizing of the computer Knife Sharpening applications to determine usb height while control honing?

You should pick up the new TORMEK KS-123 Angle Setting jig to give you the same honing angle, or even a little more obtuse, than the sharpening angle. The jig will also help you keep the correct angle when you change stones (wheels) that are different sizes.  I bought the KS-123 a few months back, the first day it was available for sale, and really like the ease and precision of going from sharpening to honing.

I'm also finding a difficult to do controlled honing with the same USB height measurements while using the MB-102. Naturally, because the leather wheels diameter is smaller than the 250 diamond. Is the only way to fine-tune this measurement by utilizing of the computer Knife Sharpening applications to determine usb height while control honing?

You should pick up the new TORMEK KS-123 Angle Setting jig to give you the same honing angle, or even a little more obtuse, than the sharpening angle. The jig will also help you keep the correct angle when you change stones (wheels) that are different sizes.  I bought the KS-123 a few months back, the first day it was available for sale, and really like the ease and precision of going from sharpening to honing.

Thank you.

Yes, I do have the KS 123.  So I guess you're saying use the 123, turn the machine around, Snap in the 123 on the previously set USB, and re-Just the usb's height to match the 123's angle.

I never added oil except as per the instructions when the honing wheel was brand new. It is now pitch black, completely smooth and I never scrape it.

When sharpening the first knife of a new session, I only add a bit of compound, by applying the tip of the tube and barely squeezing while moving the tube sideways. It leaves a tiny bit of paste wrapped twice or three times around the wheel.

I then hone for two to thre passes, then (yuck) remove whatever paste is left on the blade with a finger and rub it back onto the wheel. Makes for a dirty fingertip, but the wheel always feels the same.

Yes, it does leave for dirty finger Tips but I guess this goals with the project. Thank you for your input.

I truly would thank you all for taking the time to offer me some input.

I've gathered some insight with each of your responses.

Thankyou

One further question when you feel that the leather wheel is somewhat bulky in areas as it's spinning against the blades edge.
*How do you go about cleaning that area?

I mean, I could use the backside of my knife with slight pressure to somehow smooth out where the compound has become somewhat bulky and apply another spread out even coat again.

Truly, I like to thank you all for sharing your experience here.

Thank you Phil

It sounds to me like you may be using too much compound?  I can't recall ever having a noticeable buildup (or reading about one) like you described.

Clean it like you described (using the back of a knife as a "scraper)" and maybe try a little less.

I would also caution against using too much oil... it can reduce the effectiveness of the honing compound.

I truly would thank you all for taking the time to offer me some input.

I've gathered some insight with each of your responses.

One further question when you feel that the leather wheel is somewhat bulky in areas as it's spinning against the blades edge.
*How do you go about cleaning that area?

I mean, I could use the backside of my knife with slight pressure to somehow smooth out where the compound has become somewhat bulky and apply another spread out even coat again.

Truly, I like to thank you all for sharing your experience here.

Thank you Phil

Hello everyone,

May sound like a silly question, but I've been thinking about it ever since I've been utilizing my leather wheel on my T8 with the compound.

What are the telltale signs that more compound may be needed to the leather

I'm also finding a difficult to do controlled honing with the same USB height measurements while using the MB-102. Naturally, because the leather wheels diameter is smaller than the 250 diamond. Is the only way to fine-tune this measurement by utilizing of the computer Knife Sharpening applications to determine usb height while control honing?

I've actually been doing it freehand and it does seem by the sounds the leather makes when in contact with the knife edge, that it sounds like I'm at the right angle. I mean the bess machine more often with kitchen knives is giving me a reading under 200 and sometimes lower than 150. I was shocked when I seen some numbers lower than 150 so I actually did two other tests on the same blades at the front and at the rear with approx same figures.
I mean, wouldn't it have been great, and I may be mistaken, to have signed a machine where the slot at the front and the slots at the back would calculate the same angle when using the same height USB. Because the 102 multi base has the long legs. I don't know if I'm clear and what I'm saying, but it is what it is for now thank you all upfront for helping me out with some input.

PHil

Ken great question.

I for sure would find this quantitative analysis very beneficial.

I'm sure our career-minded pro knife, sharpeners maybe be able to chime in and offer us some insight. Hopefully please.

But muddling this in my head right now, I think there maybe several other variables that may influence the uses of ACC. For example, the subjective variable concerning the amount of pressure one puts on the knife while grinding on the diamond stone, which in turn naturally would create a dirtier and more tainted water solution. Now I'm no where near even an intermediate sharpener but l am falling prey to maybe changing the solution more often than l should be even as a hobbiest if you will.

Anyveee, hopefully again, our 33 daily knife sharpening wizards can ante up some insights.

Thxxxx Phil

Ken Thankyou

Yes, I wanted to know as I've watched many videos of others running 2 either diamond or cbn on a T8.

Yes I agree, sir. There is a wealth of information over at knife grinders Australia that is still active sadly after Vadim's passing with his scientific research studies to practical use; as it is in this forum.

Thank you again

Phil

Hello my name is Phil. I'd like to thank you upfront for any info you may have. I've watched many Videos, I'm new to Knife Sharpening. I can't remember if I've actually read or seen in videos, if running two diamond or CBN wheels at one time on a T8 is OK.

Can running 2 wheels become a warranty issue?

I know for sure I've noticed in videos that some half. I guess I can also email Tormek directly to find out but then I miss out connecting with you fine & skilled people.

Because then I have another question. 

Thank you Phil

Thank you so much for the straight up link Ken.

Hello everyone, my name is Phil (Filippo) I'm a newbie to sharpening but eager, motivated & excited to learn from you very skilled members.

First off I want to thank you all for posting topics and feedback to just about everything a newbie can learn from. And especially KEN for encouraging me to post.


I lucked out and purchased a brand new T8 black in Canada. I also ordered the HTK – 806 hand tool kit, a Bess PT50A, a microscope and various sized USBs-80cm. Various grits of CBNs wheels 80,160, 400 & 1000 that can be run with water (they word it's safe) from Hans @ Slipakniven from Sweden. From them I'm also awaiting a storage rack, adaptor for two wheels, drip tray for two wheels. Tormek's new Angle Setter and of course the stock DF 600 grit diamond wheel that came with the unit & its composite wheel. Honestly, I don't know why I'm mentioning all these things certainly not ego driven but moreso it may help you all in the future to offer input to my struggles.

You may ask why did I order all these things upfront while still learning. Well I could say that I'm crazy and obsessed, which is a trait that I own but also I'd like to have most of the things in place up front.

An interesting future topic may be let's see the area some of you have created to accommodate your knife sharpening units. Pictures of your areas can be very helpful to a newbie who is thinking about possible set-up areas. Inside and no worries with CBN cracking when run wet. I know they can be run dry as well and to allow the CBN's when run wet to dry them afterwards.

Finally to the friggin question after writing this thesis.
My question is around lubricating the main shaft when need be. I noticed at least one posting that I read from back in 2016 on various lubes. Having read that post and your input to various types ie: food grade or not, I've learned a few things thank you.
I sort of want a bottom line or a hit link to the best of the best or at least the best in a lube that I can buy and have on hand. Any links?


Thank you for allowing me to join. Sincerely, I do.


Filippo

Yeah, same here with mine

Ken Rizzo from Wood Turners Wonders was kind enough to send me a 600 grit 10" CBN wheel for my T7 to test for sharpening knives. My plan was to try one to see if it would be a good replacement for the SB250 wheels that I've been using for my sharpening business. Each season I wear a 10" SB250 down to 7-1/2" by the time the market ends at X mass. I'm not complaining; each wheel will sharpen 1000+ knives during the season. However, the SB250's do go out of round quickly and require retruing back to a round shape every week and sometimes more. The big plus is that I never have use the grader to coarsen the SB250. I just keep it at the fine grit. I was hoping that a CBN would grind as effectively as the 250 and never go out of round or wear out.
   I picked up 6 dull knives from our local Habitat for Humanity store to run my first test. I ground 3 using my SB250 and ground the other 3 with the 10" CBN. I counted the number of passes for each grind and found that the 10" CBN took more passes to raise a burr and the burr was a little less distinct. It also took a little longer to buff the burrs off. I then used a BESS KN 100 to compare how sharp each knife was after buffing. The knives ground with the CBN averaged in the low 170's while the ones ground with the SB250 averaged 212. Not bat in in either case.
   I always thought that the SB250 trued fine was about 1000 grit. After my test today, I'm wondering if the SB250 isn't closer to 500 grit. I'm now starting to think that it would be better for me to get a 500 grit CBN??
   I plan on going back to Habitat for more test knives (they happily take them back sharpened). I'm also hoping that one of my ex-colleagues who is still teaching will let me use a microscope to take a closer look at the grinds.

Curt

Great read thx