Messages

Thank you both!  I'm going to place a order on Tuesday morning.   About how often would you re-apply this spray?  My wife says "diamonds are forever".

My wife says that too, but then she says, "but there can always be one more"

In the video, mentioned in TGBTO's post he also indicates where you can buy these CrO2 can buy.
I had no problem with that buying it here (NL).

I use a powerful magnet on a string. With that I "fish" through the water tank after grinding, with a small plastic bag around it. After 'fishing,' I turn the plastic bag back so that the metal residue is in the bag and I throw that away. Work simple and clean.

Personally, I learned very much from Vadim. Like a real teacher, like in the old days at our craft school.   
But was also innovative.
Rest in peace.

Here is another link to an axe manufacturer from Sweden that has a very good reputation in Europe:

https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/



By the way, we considered (in the Netherlands) the characteristic difference between a cabinetmaker and a carpenter is the axe.

Carpenters in earlier times used the axe a lot. They are "clovers" of wood. In which one must pay close attention to the thread of the wood.
Furniture makers are more 'cutters' of wood.

I agree with the advice of changing the trough water before using the SJ 4000 grit stone. Good practice with honing wheels is not to cross contaminate different grits. Why do we do this with the SJ? I would carry this a little further and suggest having a separate stone grader reserved for the SJ. Stone graders eventually wear out. Let the stone grader reserved for the SJ eventually become the general purpose stone grader and replace it for the SJ with a new one. If changing water for the SJ seems a hassle, why not use a second water trough? If one is doing enough of this high dollar sharpening, the expense of a second water trough should easily be absorbed.

I don't want this post to become overly long. I will stop here and save further comments for replies.

Ken

This is exactly why I made a water bowl holder, when I need to change water bowls. It has happened to me several times that I have knocked over the bowl that is not being used. The bowls are not very stable, because of their form.  https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5047.msg36436.html#msg36436

Können Sie etwas genauer erklären, was Sie mahlen wollen? Es geht um Blechscheren, aber die anderen genannten Begriffe lassen sich nicht gut ins Niederländische übersetzen.
Haben Sie vielleicht ein paar Fotos?

Vielen Dank im Voraus

Personally, I get to a maximum of 9,2 mm. But then it does not clamp optimally. Then I have to go back to 6 mm.

Hello.
The jaws of your jig are not parallel.

You're right about that.

So? What?  Would you have complained if Tormek had said "up to 9.2mm?  It is what it is, be happy that it does what its primary purpose is - self centering - up to 9.2mm.  If you can't be happy with that, take initiative, substitute longer screws. 

Rick

I was just responding to Sharpco's question, which does not get beyond 4.39 mm. So I myself come to something more, as stated in my topic.
No more.

Personally, I get to a maximum of 9,2 mm. But then it does not clamp optimally. Then I have to go back to 6 mm.

I bought a second leather wheel and have had good success with 1µ diamond paste. I like using just the T-8 and not buying a low speed grinder and fitting it with supports and additional wheel.

That's how I feel about it, too.

Sharpening a chisel squarely is not so obvious on a T8, when in fact you would expect it to be.

Personally, I always put a pencil mark on the mirror edge, just below the cut, so that I can monitor myself that the grinding process remains perfectly square. If it goes wrong, don't keep grinding and stop.

Do you do use the SE-77 as a chisel holder?  There are adjustment knobs on there that you can use to adjust the position of the chisel is. But they are not made for that!
(Those adjustment knobs are meant to round off planing iron slightly at both ends of the iron).

A RH felt wheel I already have (33mm thick with a 12mm hole). I also have the diamond paste from THK. In itself it lubricates well. Am curious about the result. I don't know if this is polycrystal or monocrystal.

Furthermore, I also used the chromium oxide like Vadmin and used it on a leather wheel porridge, as he describes. In itself that also goes well, but it is a bit messy. On its own, it is cheap though.

My THK orders always come very fast - 7-10 days from Hong Kong to Vancouver, Canada. They overestimate the shipping time on Ebay so they dont get bad feedback for "slow shipping"

What are your experiences with THK?

I find the coverage of the adjustment knobs in the handbook unfortunate. The emphasis should be on cambering planes, not on aligning chisels. The SE-77 is a major advance for cambering plane blades. Being able to control camber with bench planes is one of the things which distinguishes a cabinetmaker from a woodworker. The amount of camber sets the cut depth of a planes which varies according to the function of the plane.

Ken

Here, as a woodworker, I agree 100%.
Wim