Messages

Hi Josh,

Welcome to the Tormek forum, and congratulations on your purchase.  I'm sure you will enjoy the T2.

As a starting point have you seen the Tormek's own T2 video on YouTube?  I found it quite informative.  I think the jig on the T2 is quite straightforward in terms of learning but appreciate that the honing has a bit of an 'art' to it. 

I'm an experienced T8 user, and based in West Sussex.  If you're stuck I could help out as there is a lot that is transferable across devices.  My only issue is time/availability (as in not a lot of it). 

Feel free to PM if you'd like to discuss further.

All the best,

Brad

Hi TGBTO,

The wire edge is such a fine and elusive thing that I think rather than looking for another detection method that may be inconclusive, it would be best to just get yourself a BESS tester (even the PT50-C).  You already are binge-watching wootz, plus reading about deburring, using FVB, felt, diamond sprays etc... these are all classic symptoms of BESS tester owners

A question over on the Tormek Facebook group about whether an 8" CBN wheel could be used instead of a 10" one got me thinking about angular velocity.   In practice the 8" wheel would work (ie would fit) on a T7/T8, but the grinding surface would be passing the edge at a slower speed due to the smaller radius.  So all other things being equal, a 10" CBN wheel (or diamond wheel, or SG) will cut more efficiently than an 8" one because it's passing more quickly by the edge.   I was familiar with that concept, but it's been more than two decades since I looked at the relevant formulas, so I did a bit of a refresher this morning and turns out it's simpler than I thought... Angular velocity is directly proportional to radius - so the grinding surface of a 10" wheel is travelling 25% quicker past the edge than an 8"one.   That's relevant information for the person considering the 8" CBN wheel, but probably also for those considering at what point their SG is worn enough to replace...  As the diameter shrinks, more time is required to achieve the same result... 

I was having that same issue with mould but solved the problem (indirectly) by fitting an RPM increaser to my T8.  Now I lose so much fluid during a sharpening that my ACC doesn't sit around for long anymore...   

1.0 micron diamond paste on the leather wheel here, and quite a lot of it.
Works like a charm.

Impregnate wheel with oil first or not?
Recomended brand of paste?
Thanks

I think the answer is to always impregnate the leather wheels with oil first. Otherwise the oil will get drawn out of your paste...

Regarding which to buy, THK is a good one. Ships from Hong Kong but very quickly.

.

I don't know the freezing point of the ACC fluid, but given the viscosity of it I'm sure it's below 0C... 

Hi Wallydouglas,

I would go with the SG250 graded coarse and at a steeper sharpening angle - something like 25-30 degrees - alternating passes on each side until you've cleared the  chip, then reset your desired edge angle.  Time to complete will depend on the size of the chip and the hardness of the knife, but 20 minutes doesn't seem unreasonable.  If you want to go quicker, you could consider a coarser grade of CBN wheel (80/160 grit) but not essential. 

B

A tangential point to add here.  I once accidentally dropped a bit of honing paste onto the rubber wheel that quickly coated the drive spindle of my T8... I didn't notice right away, and every time I applied pressure on the SG250 it would slow to a halt as the rubber slipped...  it didn't take long to sort out, but a point I would add to a troubleshooting manual if one existed...

Thank you Rick... FVB was the name I was trying to 'say without saying'... I wasn't sure if it was OK to mention specific brands.   But I certainly like the FVB - so much so that I've got two, even though I only have one T8.  That's because unfortunately KG no longer ships to the UK, but if/when I add another Tormek to my workshop the FVB is the first accessory I'd want...

Hi David,

Welcome to the Forum!

You could try colouring in the bevel with a sharpie before each pass until you get a feel for the motion and angle that is required. And you could mount the USB on the front side of the machine to give yourself self somewhere to rest your wrist to maybe help get a repeatable movement.  I'm sure you'll crack it quickly. 

All the best,

Brad

Hi Jesse,

My $0.02

-as others have said, I would definitely go for the T8 if for no other reason than run time.

-if I were in your shoes, to add 'something extra' for your customers, my first investment would be a frontal support mount (several options) with the associated software.  That way you can get into controlled-angle honing which in my opinion will give a performance boost to the longevity of the edges you create.

-in a straight choice between SJ and the DE wheel I would go for SJ.  I think a well-graded SG will give you a result close to the DE anyways, but the SJ will bring new options and opportunities for what you can do...

All the best,

Brad

Hi ABall

I agree with cbwx34 - it seems a step backwards to me to go to the SJ after felt.  From my own experience I consider that after achieving the apex there's a fork in the road.  Down one path is a very aesthetically beautiful edge created by ending with the SJ (and very sharp).  Or down the other route, which I chose more often, is ending with felt.  Not as attractive an edge, but definitely sharper than the SJ. 

In BESS terms, my personal best with the SJ is somewhere around 90, vs 47 via felt.  But when I sharpen for other people they ALWAYS prefer the SJ finish.

Cheers,

Brad

As a member, I like Brad's suggestion of 160 and 400 grit. Diamond and CBN wheels cut differently than conventional wheels.Those two will give you a good range. You have several options for finer grit, including the SG graded fine, the leather honing wheel or the composite wheel(CW-220).

As forum moderator, I have no problem discussing CBN grits; however, I want to keep discussion of brands off forum.

Ken

Hi Ken - I could understand why discussions of alternative sharpening systems might not be allowed.  But shouldn't the mention of brand names for accessories for Tormeks be permitted?  After all, in those cases Tormek remains central and integral. 

Hi ABall,

I think 160 to 1000 is too big of a jump and you'll wear out the latter.  If it were me I'd probably go 160 and 400 and use the composite wheel or leather wheel for the finer work... 400 and 1000 would also be a compatible pair but then you wouldn't have anything for the more intensive reshaping like the 160 can do for you (other than presumably your SG250?)....