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I print and make my own modifying a template I found, IIRC, on Steve Bottorff's site, Sharpening Made Easy.  Started with file folders (a cheap source of 65 lb paper) but found the surface too rough for printing. Now using 67 lb "cover stock" from Staples. The colours let me quickly grab the right size.

Modifications include logo, email, phone number, BESS logo, and place to fill in a BESS number.

I considered using the Sharpening Supplies ones but shipping to Canada is $30 USD - that's almost $50 CAD!

Now I need to make a template for taller knives (the tallest one is 2" / 5cm) as Santoku-style kitchen knives are very popular these days.

Wow, I was about to post that I have the same problem with all three US-430's (bought from Big Bear Tools in Canada), but you guys beat me to it. As it would hinder production to return them and wait for "correct" ones, I guess I'll be filing/grinding down mine. 

Another vote for Dave Street, owner of Big Bear Tools. I went there at the end of July to pick up a new T-8 (and save on shipping!). He gifted me two Tormek LED work lights (the one with the magnetic base). He told me they are Tormek's wholesaler for Canada (except for Lee Valley Tools, who deals directly with Tormek ). However, as Tormek's Canadian agent, he deals with Lee Valley's Tormek repairs and returns.

Very nice people and highly recommended!

Here's Vadim's article on where diamond is better than CBN, and also where CBN is better than diamond:

http://knifegrinders.com.au/Manuals/CBN_AKMarticle.pdf

The RazorPit razor sharpener claims to extend life by a factor of six:

https://www.fendrihan.ca/products/razorpit-razor-blade-sharpener

I'm glad to see that Murphy's Law strikes again, I bought a T-8 package three days before this was announced 😠.

Agree its a fair price, Advance had quoted me $500 for the same stripped-down package that is now $439 from Tormek.

The working prototype:



Sleeve 1.5mm thick

Inner diameter 11mm
Outer diameter 14mm

Length:
Tormek-7  28mm
Tormek-8  32mm

One Threaded hole M4
Socket set screw M4
Set screw length: Totmek-8 max 4mm; Tormek-7 - any.

Allen key 2mm

My coarse wheel Tormek now runs overclocked to 130 RPM.

... before you ask, we are too busy at the moment to make them for others, maybe in January next year. Check with your local steelworks shop if they can make one for you.

I see on YouTube variations of this approach to speed up Tormek RPM:

Using epoxy (12 years of knife sharpening on the same T-7)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzqyIMPMQhQ&t=118

Using cloth tape (in German)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kfVllwWjzI

Using cloth tape and an elastic tube (in German)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DiHBg8c9r4&t=920s

Looks like this speeder-upper is now available from Wootz. However, since Tormek does not endorse speeding up their machines, I can only say buy it to look at and not to use 😉.

I've parked the idea of getting a T2 for the moment based purely on the cost. The T2 plus coarse diamond wheel leaves little change from EUR1000 which makes it approximately twice the cost of a T4 / T8 with no accessories. At that price I think I'd be more inclined to get an additional 2xT8's simply to reduce the inconvenience/time taken to change wheels when sharpening!

BeSharp that's interesting and something I'm willing to give a try. Can you expand on the progression of paper wheel grits you use? Thanks

The Razor Sharp system just has two paper wheels, one with 180 grit I believe, and the other with the included honing compound (Jackson Lea C5 at 2 microns), as sold by Steve Bottorff and others.

In our routine sharpening, each knife goes from Tormek T-7 with a coarse wheel to Tormek T-8 with a medium wheel, and another T-8 with a fine wheel, then deburred on slotted paper wheels, then back to another Tormek T-7 for removing the wire edge on a felt wheel, and then back again to a finishing paper wheel  - and comes with the sharpness of 50-80 BESS.

But when I want a record sharpness of under 50 BESS, sharper than a disposable shaving razor, for better precision, I grind that knife on a single Tormek, changing wheels of the same diameter. Still it then goes to paper wheels for deburring, and then to another T-7 with the felt wheel, and the finishing paper wheel.

All grinding and deburring controlled with our software.

Thanks Vadim. This is the kind of response I was looking for - from someone who has multiple Tormeks, and has measured the results.

Looks like I'll be ordering two more Tormeks!

...snip...
I live (rent) in a rather ritzy area in Vancouver (average house price: $2.5 million). I would guesstimate my sharpening as 70% Henckels / Wusthof, 20% Global, and the rest Boker, Benchmade, Opinel, Shun, etc. So good quality steel from customers who have money. Sharpening prices are not a predominant concern (I have raised prices three times in six months with no decrease in business).
...snip...

BC, Canada or WA, USA?  Or somewhere other?

What are you charging?
Rick

I'm in Vancouver, B.C., Canada, eh. Charging $1 an inch, $2 an inch for high end steel or serrated.

Hello,

Dutchman hit the nail on the head already...

Just a tip how to spare time a little bit - use more SVM jigs (and water trough) and sharpen more knives with one wheel if possible. Then you don't need to change wheels (water) so often.

jvh

Hi jvh, thank you for your comments. Yes, at the moment I have eight knife jigs, and plan on getting some more. The T7 water trough is a pain, I'm wondering if the T8 will help alleviate that pain? Hmm.

If you don't measure the distance to the stone when setting the USB, but instead measure it indirectly e.g. the "Wootz" method, then you are adding all kinds of tolerance sources. There is a good chance then that the sharpening angle on the various machines will deviate from one another.
The result will then not be as expected.

... and yup.

My .02... if you're trying to speed things up, adding a bunch of steps seems to going in the wrong direction.  (And do your customers really care about BESS scores, or is that just a marketing technique?)

I'd use a belt sander to make repairs, and rough in a bevel if needed, then one stone to sharpen, and one step to remove the burr.  Like someone recently told me... K.I.S.S.... especially if speed is a concern.

First, I must thank everyone for their help. I've been impressed by how helpful (and civil!) everyone is here, unlike some other internet forums I've participated in!

So, more details:
1) I have just ordered two CBN wheels and a felt buffing wheel from a well-known Australian sharpener. This should mostly eliminate having to adjust the stone diameter. Of course, there are still machine tolerance variations.
2) I have been sharpening commercially for about half a year. I live (rent) in a rather ritzy area in Vancouver (average house price: $2.5 million). I would guesstimate my sharpening as 70% Henckels / Wusthof, 20% Global, and the rest Boker, Benchmade, Opinel, Shun, etc. So good quality steel from customers who have money. Sharpening prices are not a predominant concern (I have raised prices three times in six months with no decrease in business).
3) On a whim, I started issuing BESS score certificates. The customers love them. It generates LOTS of referrals. It has solved a problem I had when I first started, which is going up against established sharpeners. How could I say that my work is better? Actually, is it even better? How could I qualify any claims? So, yes, in my situation, the BESS tester has proven to be a valuable marketing tool.
4) I will be starting at a farmer's market in two weeks. It seems for most farmer's markets, speed is the key. I have a paper wheel setup, which, as I posted on another topic thread, I regularly get 250 BESS, or "good enough". However, that setup is noisier than the Tormek, and no BESS certificates - which, as I've already pointed out, has proven to be a great marketing tool in my area for my situation.
5) Fifth, I'm not interested in just doing a speedy but average job. It's just not the way I approach life, and quite frankly I would rather make less money but do quality work. For those who did not recognize the proposed protocol I listed earlier, it's from Vadim's latest Deburring Book, Appendix II (except I'm using a Viel S5 for the initial grinding, since it's at around 30 degrees anyways).

So, my situation is unique - I'm trying to speed up a very elaborate process - which my customers are willing to pay for - with BESS certificates - in a Farmer's Market environment!

Watch a master sharpener..... He does not seem to find his Tormek waaaay too slow:

https://youtu.be/8zQDmQ_n7wg

Ken

Already watched that. But he's not following the protocol I listed. I'm speaking about my own real-life experience.

I am not a professional sharpener but what has the use of multiple machines got to do with an increase in sharpness?

My bad. I meant a possible DECREASE in sharpness, due to using three machines with three different universal support heights, versus using one machine with a set bar height.

The Tormek works because it's a tight tolerance machine. I know because I first tried a Tormek "copy". That bad experience actually caused me to shy away from Tormek for a couple of years!

I now have a T-7. It's great, but for my sharpening business, it's WAAAAAAY too slow.


Somewhat following Vadim's protocols, I am considering:


1) shaping the bevel/grind off nicks with my Viel S-5, at 30 degrees.
2) continuing on Tormek machine A with a 400 grit stone
3) setting apex on Tormek machine B with a 1000 grit stone
4) deburring on felt wheel on a half-speed buffer
5) de-rooting on Tormek machine C with a rock hard felt wheel


Such a proposed setup is of course faster, as I then don't have to keep changing three wheels. But 


will there be significant sharpening BESS score increase if three Tormeks are used?