Messages

Ken,

You are absolutely correct about everything you said. No offense taken whatsoever. I'm just speaking for myself. Sometimes I get ahead of myself and buy things just for the "want" factor and not the need factor. I technically don't "need" anything else for knife sharpening. It comes down to basically just wanting something. It's good that you post your honest opinions, gives people like myself a reason to stop and think about if I should really buy something I don't necessarily need to accomplish the task at hand. I'm not that financially well off that I should be buying a set of diamond wheels just to have them. I already went overboard and have all the jigs (hand tool kit, wood turners kit, drill big jig, planer blade jig) So thank you for your comments, sometimes I need to be kept in check. Keep them coming.

Thanks,
Antz

Jeff,
For me it's because it's affordable, can be used horizontal or vertical, and can be converted to variable speed which will help not over heat whatever it is your grinding. I'm sure someone else can add more. At first I was looking at getting a Kalamazoo until a few more experienced forum members pointed me towards the Veil.

Antz

John, Ken, Rich

Thank you for the responses. I don't think I'll be getting a diamond wheel anytime soon. Not at least before I get a Veil belt sander. I was just thinking for those of us who just "must have" something just to have it the 600 grit fine diamond wheel would be a good middle ground if you could only have one. 

Also I do have a kindle version of Wootz book and that's the exact system I'm trying to accomplish. I've been skipping the leather honing wheel and going straight to paper wheels after the SG stone and I've never hade knives so sharp. I am only using the supplied white compound that comes with the razor sharp system but I plan on getting a second slotted wheel to use .25 micron diamond paste for the final honing pass to take things to another level.

John,
so when you say you have your sights set on a second leather honing wheel do you mean you will be swapping out honing wheels on the t8? For instance initial deburring on one leather wheel with tormek compound, then swap it out for final deburring on a second leather wheel with diamond paste?

So here's a question for those of us on a budget. If you could only have one tormek diamond wheel, which wheel would cover the most ground and be the most useful as a stand-alone wheel? Would it be the course followed my SG wheel then stropping? Or fine diamond wheel followed directly by stropping or the extra fine then strop? I'm wondering if there is a consensus on which wheel would be the best if you could only afford one.

Thanks,
Antz

Nice Rick, I hope it works out well for you. I'll be interested to hear your take on it once you receive it. Did you order any of the jigs for the veil from Steve's sight? I was thinking at least the knife guide jig would be useful.

Ken, I'll have to check out the bessex forum. Thanks for pointing me in that direction for more info.

Thanks,
Antz

Thank you for your reply's Ken and Josu, I have looked into the Veil with variable speed conversion and it looks like a very affordable, versatile option. It would be a great addition to my current setup of Tormek and paper wheels. It might even be a necessary addition. I'm sure in time I'll come across some knives/scissors etc. that will make me wish I had one.

Thanks,
Antz

John, that's good advice for care instructions on a business card. Also I've been looking at getting a Kalamazoo 1x42 belt sander.

I am amazed at how so many people who work in kitchens with knives for a living treat their knives so badly. Almost every knife I've done so far has either a broken tip, chips, nicks, or bent. Some have even been totally rusty!

Antz

Grey,
Yes I had to learn the hard way about the spacer, but luckily no damage to the bearings or anything. Ken just posted a YouTube link on another thread that covers this topic and is a recommended watch.

Thanks,
Antz

Update:

So I watched Steve's video and his method is to use the edge of the wheel. I was worried about using the edge of the stone because I thought it was too rough. As it turns out I was worried for nothing. After some practice I have the basic technique down pretty good. My practice knife is now hair popping sharp from tip to base. I'm feeling more and more confident with my skills and it just makes me want to sharpen more things! I wish I had more knives on hand... I think tomorrow I'll start practicing on chisels followed by scissors.

Thanks again Ken,
Antz

Ken,
Yes my next purchase before I buy anymore equipment will be Steve's "sharpening school in a box". I am serious about doing farmers markets maybe twice a month. Other than that I have knives from customers in the restaurant industry and just through word of mouth that I do at my house: (I've been sharpening for a while before I got my tormek with bench stones). I'm hoping to start marketing myself more and picking up more business. Thank you for the YouTube link, I'll check it out as soon as I can.

Thanks,
Antz

So I got a question for you knife sharpening experts. On a lot of knives where the bevel meets the choil the blade curves in slightly toward the spine of the knife. With the tormek stone being 2 inches wide I can't seem to find a way to satisfactorily sharpen this small portion of the knife. I can only think of two ways. One being taking off way to much material from the entire length of the knife until it becomes flat all the way to the choil. Or two trying to get into that little curve with the edge of the grinding wheel which I'm reluctant to try as the edge of the wheel is a lot rougher than the top. I also don't want to "radius" the edge of my grinding wheel to try and get in the curve. Am I missing something? Also I can't figure out how to upload any pictures as it keeps telling me file to big.

Thanks,
Antz

Good to know Ken. I never heard that before. I thought it states on the tormek website itself that the t-4 was only rated for 30 minutes. But if it can be run continuous then shoot I might have to pick me up one. I'm planning on starting to do some farmers markets and maybe the t-4 would be a better portable option along with 8 inch paper wheels.

Thanks,
Antz

In addition to what Ken said I think adherence to a procedure that is known to produce exceptionally sharp knives is key. Being able to always repeat this process and achieve the same results is the true demonstration of your skill. While there may be small differences in the concavity of the grind due to wheel size I doubt that it is much of a factor in final sharpness.

John, that's exactly what I wasn't getting at, I know there would be a small difference in concavity but I think you and Ken are correct that in that the initial sharpness would be the same if you follow a strict deburring process and properly apex the edge.

I just think it's interesting that if you primarily sharpen knives you could use either machine and get the same results, and one is half the price as the other. Only draw backs would be the t-4 is only rated for 30 mins continuous use, which wouldn't work for me. I usually do 5+ knives at a time on my t-8 and run it longer than 30mins. Most I did consecutively was 17 knives straight without stopping (about 3 hours continuous use) but for home use where only knives are concerned I think a t-4 would be the more economical choice. Thanks for your responses.

Antz

That's weird as we literally get NO snow  . Only snow is on the summits and don't see a reason for clearing that. Any way sorry for hijacking your thread for a minute Rich.

Antz

Great video. Thanks Ken.

Antz