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There is not much info on our forum about whether to or how to sharpen a ceramic knife.  I did a search and didn't find much.  I have the full complement of grinding wheels, SG, SB, SJ, and all three diamond wheels.  I assume it would be best to use the diamonds, but has anyone actually done this and if so, how did it go? 

I'm back at a farmers market today and last week one customer said they would be bringing in two ceramic knives for me to sharpen.  I realize it is last minute and I have not do my homework, but if anyone has any suggestions (other than telling him to come back when I know more, which I am likely to do at this point), I would greatly appreciate it. 

Thanks,

Rick

Some time ago someone talked about the diamond wheels in ceramics knives in another thread.
I also did my own tests on the SG-250 wheel

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3686.0

I found de video, isn´t public video.

The video can be very useful for everyone, and it is very practical
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6FHhMHJ46E

Enjoy it

Hi Fernando

Thanks for the link. Its pure Origami :-). I enjoyed it - and I hadn´t thought that out myself - so thanks again.

And it is a really nice wooden holster you have there 

Joergen

That case has a story that I like.

I try: Reduce - Reuse - Recycle - Redistribute - Repair.
That case is made with a wooden sheet that had more than 50 years of drying, the father of my wife had it as something of great value at least sentimental, but he does not know what kind of wood is, me neither, the sleeve is an integral piece that only passes the bench saw on one side to make space for the knife, and had unique characteristics, the wood is too dense, hard and not very porous, the shine is natural achieved with sandpaper 3000 grit, do not use paint only the  oil "USP grade", that spreads at the end.
A piece of wood that had a second chance, and my family loved the result.

for the occasional I use wrapped newspaper covers in such a way that they do not come off, unlike the cardboard covers where the knife and the edge are protected but the knife moves, this way of wrapping I learned it on the internet with a Japanese man that also sharpens knives.

I found de video, isn´t public video.

The video can be very useful for everyone, and it is very practical
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6FHhMHJ46E

Enjoy it

This is a subject in which I can contribute something ...

I handle 3 types of cases.
The one I use for recurring and trusted clients
The one I use for occasional clients
and the one I use for myself.

In my country the possession of sharp objects is prohibited, so to transport them, the knives must be covered, so that it indicates that it is not intended for use in illegal acts, it does not matter if it is a machete, folding knife or kitchen knife. .

As much by subjects of law as by my own security, the knives, of the recurring clients I transport them in covers made for that purpose. I use victorinox covers that come in various dimensions according to the knife.
Not only stores the knife safely, the black rubber that are in the middle, fix the knife in the case which makes it suspended in the middle and prevents it from moving inside this,  it is a more hygienic cover

for the occasional I use wrapped newspaper covers in such a way that they do not come off, unlike the cardboard covers where the knife and the edge are protected but the knife moves, this way of wrapping I learned it on the internet with a Japanese man that also sharpens knives.

And for several of my knives I have created the custom covers myself. thus I prevent the edge from being damaged or that the knife may cause some unfortunate incident when I transport it.

I attach some photos.






my cover:

I agree with RichColvin, I would also like to see some pictures 

I follow you closely

Well done, Rick! That earns you one of the highly coveted forum Popular Mechanics Home Workshop awards for useful ideas. Congratulations? Unfortunately, there is no money with this award, just prestige........

Ken

prestige and more congratulations for your good ideas.
you did not know but with that idea you have already helped me

Bringing the cafeteria tray home and setting it up at my home shop sharpening station.  It totally captures all the spillage and I pour it off into jars and filter it using a coffee filter, which can be seen in the upper right corner.


Rick

This is the kind of things I like to see, thanks for sharing.

...
I talked with the owner about bringing the back/spine down to meet the bevel rather than bringing the bevel up to meet the spine.  I am thinking now, looking at both that a bit of both may be the better approach. 

Rick

Never hurts to draw on it what the end result will look like.  You probably already know this, but make sure the tip doesn't stick out above the handle when closed... one reason I suggest at least some removal from the spine side.

Here's an old picture of a knife tip I added to a Kershaw "safety knife"... working both sides of the blade...



Thanks!

I totally agree with you cbwx34, it is better to remove material from the spine, so that when the leaf closes it does not protrude and is dangerous, then there is no way to reverse it, and I have already seen it before, remove matrerial from the edge to find the spine, change a lot the silhouette of the blade, and the point of the knife protrudes.

Hi Ken, Fernando and Rick,

I am so happy to hear that you enjoy the film. My father is a carpenter and I can really relate to Kerryn when she's talking about how she spent hours with her dad in his workshop. My father was the person who introduced me to many of the tools that I use today, and I have always been allowed to help him, which probably shaped my interest for making and DYI projects. I hope I will be able to pass this on to my future kids one day.

Thank you for taking the time to watch the film.
I wish you all a lovely Friday and a great weekend.

Kind regards,
Marie

In my country, it does not happen the same in others, it is said that the father " pampers / spoil, I do not know what the right word is to say that the father is more affectionate" the daughter more than the boy son.

I think you're very lucky to have the time, the guidance, the supervision and the company of your father, in this area.
if additional to this you enjoy learning from it, and you enjoy carpentry, you have already done a home run

enjoy it 

I think it's great that children can spread this kind of knowledge, just when they seem to be more interested in a mobile game, than in having physical activities, I think this is an excellent alternative to instill children's knowledge and develop their imagination .

After getting the urge to just do it, I figured out a way to mount the engraver. Here (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_LojTisBF6KcovdYOViW8rlrsONOxy7l) I've added a picture of my method. I use an SVS-38 and made sure the screw bites down hard. This part is fairly tricky. I then set up the angle guide against the back edge. I first grind the large face at 45°, which goes very quickly as you can imagine. Then, I rotate the piece to address the heel. I had to lower the support bar almost to the wheel as well as push the piece to the edge of the jig in order to make it a low enough angle. These sides went even faster; only about a second on the wheel. And that was it; I tested it immediately after and it worked great.

for that process, do not think it is better to use the accessory SE-76 or SE-77, which you use has the possibility of leaning to one side, affecting the shape of the bevel.

I have one of these. This knife is quit common in Norway. For most people that not into knives this is the most expensive knife they have.

Not only in Norway, here in Colombia, victorinox is considered a high-range knife including fibrox, which for me is mid-range, so that we can make an idea 1 out of every 50 people gives me a victorinox to sharpen, here the knife kitchen, as we say in Spanish "has the 3 B: Bueno, Bonito y Barato" in English "good, nice and cheap" is the Tramontina brand knife and has a range between 15 and 25 dollars. against the more than 50 dollars that a fibrox of 8 inches costs here.

Technically you should be fine, because the aluminium oxide in the regular Tormek stone is harder than both the steel matrix (duh) as well as it's content (carbide type & volume)
The hardest carbide type in AEB-L is chromium carbide @ 1735 Knoop
The hardest carbide type in Aeogami Super is tungsten carbide @ 1880 Knoop
Aluminium oxide measures 2100 Knoop and will easily abrade steel + carbides.

Personally i always use an abrasive that is harder than both the steel matrix as well as it's contents for the best possible edges that also last the longest.
This is of less importance with edges of a coarser type, but gets increasingly more important with edges of a more polished type.

However, due to the design & shape of the blades the round Tormek stone might or might not be the best choice for sharpening.
In other words: the Tormek stone can do great on secondary bevels if your knives have these, but is totally unsuitable for sharpening those wide single bevel knives.
For those you will need completely flat stones.

a very well-founded explanation, I was only guided by the Mohs Scale, thanks for the data of the knoop scale, I did not know it, but wikipedia explained it to me

Found a couple of guides to knife steels thought worth linking to (not that there aren't others)...

Essential Guide to Knife Steel

Knife Steel Composition Chart

All About Knife Steels (This one has links to an iOS and Android app that's pretty handy).

What are your favorite links and/or knife steels?

I can give faith that the application is very useful, and does not have annoying advertising
link to android:  https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=ZviSoft