Messages

I have already answered the survey, good to have us in mind 

Fernando,
I would contact support, describing your situation. (support@tormek.se)
Please keep us posted.
Ken
ps Any reoccurrence of your motor problem?

Hi Ken

I followed your advice and contacted the support of tormek, and I can only say that I can not be more satisfied with the answer, I even asked if I could fix it with glue.

I quote:
Yes you can glue it if you need it asap.
However this is not normal and not up to Tormek standard.
This should not happen. My apologies
We send you a new locking knob. (R7031)


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In relation to my engine, it has not died again, but now I also do not risk working for a long time, without having good ventilation nearby. It keeps getting very hot, but I understand that it is normal behavior.

Hi Fernando,

I've had that more than once (at least 5 times), with the lock screws of different accessories. However, with a drop of super glue it was a quick fix, and none of the glued heads came off ever since.
Just be careful not to glue the threads together, so remove the screw before pressing it into the head again.

Those screws seem to be just pressed in, so I had already wondered if I was the only one to come across the problem. Obviously not...

Thanks for the information, I can notice that it is not a defect in the piece, everything indicates that it was designed to enter pressure, I think the fastest and simplest solution is to use glue, I will try it with epoxy glue, since the instant glue " cyanoacrylate "I'm not inspired by security over time.

I have taken advantage of a good time with my tormek T-8 and I have begun to acquire new accessories including the SVX-150 Scissors Jig.

I don't know if it happened to someone, if it's normal, if I don't have to worry and just repair it, or if I should contact Tormek for guarantee.

Buy the jig but wait to have a tailor's scissors to sharpen,
and in the first use, without force and without noticing any defect in the product I see that the black paste head of the adjustment screw rotated freely, without force.

It shows that it is new, and there is no bad treatment

What do you advise me?

Attached photos.

A question.
They plan to transmit the course online, in order to enjoy it? It would be useful for users who live in other countries and unfortunately we cannot take advantage of that opportunity.

Good day.

Good thoughts, John and Fernando.

We are not limited to one or the other, to fixed OR variable. Nor are we limited to just one fixed length. As an example, imagine we have one hundred knives to sharpen. While I believe most kitchen knives fall into the fixed setting category, I can imagine that some might not. We want both the speed of the fixed set up and the flexibility of the variable set up. Part of the designed efficiency of kenjig type set up tools is to allow returning to the fixed settings without the need of further calculations or measurement. This easy return allows us to capitalize on the individual precise adjustments for a non fixed knife without giving up the efficiency of the fixed system.

Fernando, I like your idea of the double ended block. It reminds me of the janjig. Jan started with the single Distance slot and added a second slot. The second slot allows him to use one tool to set the distance for both the grinding wheel and the honing wheel.

Angle control systems should give us a reliable, simple starting point. They should be flexible and adaptable to our individual needs and desires. I believe this technology is evolving and will become increasingly useful as more forum members develop and modify it.

Ken

In my case, the dual kenjig is not for use in the stone and leather wheel, use your idea to work at 15 and 20 degrees which are the 2 sharpening angles that are most requested, I usually use the leather wheel Freehand, I don't have 2 USB yet, but I'm managing to buy a second USB

I have also standardized my 139 mm projection suggested by Ken.

and I created my dual-kenjig and use it more than the angle meter

At some point I will take some pictures to make it known. I think everyone takes these ideas, and makes adjustments to suit their convenience

Fernando,

I think your word "destroyed" lost something in translation. Would you rewrite your post, por favor. No lo entiendo. (I don't understand it.)

Ken

Thank you for mentioning it
was updated

Fernando,

I am pleased that your sharpening work is going well for you.

I still have questions to solve this mystery. I understand your comment that Tormek does not have an agent in Columbia. However, there are many places with similar temperatures. If the problem is weather related, Tormek dealers or agents in places like Arizona US or in Mexico should be experiencing similar problems. If they are not, I would look more closely at your Tormek.

Have you replaced your switch? I think this would be a logical first step. Support should send you a replacement switch under warranty. If your problem is not the switch, a new switch at least simplifies the problem by eliminating a prime suspect.

With the new switch in place, I would try running your Tormek for a longer time (when you are at home and not faced by a deadline) and see if you can duplicate the failure. Keep the digital clock handy to verify that there is no power interruption. Having a small electric hair dryer with you which allows you to use just air with no heat could be useful.

Keep us posted, whether the problem returns or not. Remember that your T8 includes a seven year warranty. Not having an agent in your country should not effect your warranty.

Ken

Hi ken.

When I contacted Tormek after the shutdown problem, they didn't give me the option of a replacement switch, but they did tell me to let them know if it happened to me again, and it still hasn't happened to me again and I haven't worked for a while. long work, if it happens to me again I will report it to tormek and suggest a replacement switch.

I use 2 jigss simultaneously, so when the first one gets clogged I can move on to the second jig that holds the knife

Hello everyone.

In relation to the problem of the shutdown, it has not happened to me again, but I have not tried to work my tormek T-8 for more than 1 hour, I have worked several times in the day but with a rest time of 3 hours between each operation , my machine is still heating although from what I understand that heat is normal, now as the work progresses, I touch the metal part of the leather wheel when I feel that it is already very hot to the touch, I turn on a fan so that circulate the air better through the grid that has the machine, and work quieter. I don't know if it's a good idea, but I'm just trying to be practical.

Equal my skill and learning curve improved with time and I do not take more than 4 minutes per knife so now I also finish my work faster.

I can sharpen little more than a dozen knives per hour.
and all my clients know that this is a hobby and not my main job so I have the rule of delivering the finished knives, the next day, during the week; and weekends I sharpen and deliver the same day, this way I don't work so many hours in a row with the machine and I don't tempt my luck.

I fell in love with tormek, and now almost everything I do in it, I have even stopped using my other sharpeners and sharpening stones. There are few times that I now sharpen by hand, possibly only with barbers blade and Asian knives.
Now I bought the swivel base, the scissor clip, tormek polish, and I increased my collection of pocket knives with the profits.

Use the tormek is an antistress therapy at home

I was presented with Various Japanese knives to sharpen the other day and brands included Shun which used 420J2 stainless steel material.  I found it quite tough to grind and burr even after a freshly trued SB-250 wheel.

Question - Would a CBN or Diamond wheel have better grinding abilities with this kind of steel? or should I stick to the SB-250 wheel.

Thanks in advance

420J2 steel is a very soft steel, it is used to make buget knife, this steel is used to make some knives because it is highly stainless

In fairness to the SG wheels, they were never designed for "exotic" steels. Most woodworking tools were, and still are high carbon steel. Kitchen knives and most pocket or sheath knives are either high carbon or stainless steel.

My question for the farmers market sharpeners: How many of the knives you sharpen are xotics and how many are within the SG range?

Ken

In my case, every 100 knives only 2 or 3 are made of exotic steel, and the owners are mostly not chefs, nor are they related to the world of cooking.

[What do you think?]

Hi all,

being a Noob it proved difficult for me to understand all the names and designators around Tormek and its addons. So when I have looked up some Jig name for the umpteenth time to understand what the post was about, I thought that a nice glossary would be really helpful. What do you think? I've seen extensions for that on other sites. The general idea is to automatically detect words which have previously been put in the glossary and highlight them in the post. When the reader hovers the pointer over that word, the description is shown as a tooltip. Could also be click-activated to reduce annoying popups. For Tormek jigs this could be a little tooltip containing the picture and a short info about the purpose of the jig.

Might seem irrelevant, a lot of the forum users here seem to be very proficient at getting their tools sharp, knowing all the DBS-22s and RB-180s out there by heart Think of all the silent readers though. There may be many, just like myself before I registered, who are wading through tons of stuff they never heard of before and keep wondering whether it will ever make sense to them.

(just added an attachment with an example)

I totally agree with you, initially when I entered the forum I was the same everyone talked about USB and I had no idea looking for tormek usb and found no results, after a good time I could understand that it was the "US-105 Universal Support"
A glossary would be something really useful for new community users.

My problem is to figure out how to purchase more Tormek leather honing wheel oil. I could not find it in product listings with Tormek accessories. The thin oil sold the local hardware stores is not aceptable substitute. The Tormek leather honing wheel oil is a white oil, i.e. a pharmaceutical oil. It is used in cosmetic compounds. It is probably a product of Exxon Mobile which employes chemistry in the product design. It is an excellent choice for softening the surface of the leather. This allows the honing compound to be evenly dispersed on the surface. Where can the leather honing oil be purchased online?

The used oil is USP grade mineral oil, the same tormek oil container indicates it, it is a very economical oil you can get it in pharmacies, or in companies that sell chemicals, aromatic essences and that type of inputs, for 1 or 2 dollars.

Here are three photos that illustrate clamp placement. They go counter to the general adage of always clamping the front edge of the clamp parallel with the straight edge of the blade. The photos are from Tormek's Instagram page.

The clamp is not parallel to the base of the knife's edge, but seeing the image it seems that what was once mentioned in the forum had been done, which was to draw a straight line between the tip of the knife and the end of the knife's edge, and locate the clamp parallel to that line, to avoid the curve in the edge of the tip of the knife
I don't say this is the truth, but if you look at it, it's what it seems

Use this method with another knife sharpener with a very sharp curve, and i got a good result.