News:

Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.

www.tormek.com

Main Menu
Menu

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Show posts Menu

Topics - canuck

#1
Hey everyone. I bought an SVH-320 recently and used it to sharpen some 6" jointer knives that were pretty badly worn with some chips. I started on the Tormek, but it was taking a really long time to grind out the original flat ground bevel, so I setup the SVH-320 on my bench grinder and did most of the work there before going back to the Tormek to finish them up. I was happy enough with the final results, but it was a lot more work then I expected.

I found a good deal on an 8" jointer recently and the blades are in pretty good shape with no nicks, but they're a bit worn and could use a touch up. The manual for the SVH-320 says to "Grind the blade at exactly the original edge angle. Check the angle setting by turning the wheel by hand. The wheel should make marks on the whole bevel, from the tip to the heel". This seems to assume that the knives are already hollow ground, because obviously this isn't going to happen when the knives are flat ground. So I believe the advice is to start in the middle of the bevel and convert the flat grind to a hollow grind. That's what I did on the 6" knives, but it's a lot of work and doesn't really make sense to hollow grind the entire bevel if the knives just need a touch up. So what would be the best approach be for knives like this? Is it acceptable to just add a secondary micro bevel on the Tormek? I seem to remember reading that micro bevels were not recommended on jointer and planer knives. 

I've been reading lots of posts here about the SVH-320 and have found some good advice, but I haven't seen anything about how to deal with knives that are flat ground.

Cheers,

Andy
#2
Hi everyone,

New member here. I purchased a used Tormek T-2000 this week and have been spending a lot of time reading forum posts and watching videos about it's use, but I'd really like some advice regarding the leather stroping/honing wheel. I think the machine has been sitting unused for many years and the leather wheel looks very dry. From what I've been read here , it is generally recommended to add oil to the wheel once when it is new and then never again. But what about a wheel that hasn't been used in a long time? Should it be re-oiled? I don't even know if it ever was oiled. If I'm adding new oil, should I do anything else to the wheel first?

Thank in advance for any advice and I'm sorry if this has already been dealt with in other posts. I've searched the forums and couldn't find anything that addressed this specific issue. I've posted a few pics of the machine and wheel below so you can get a better idea of the condition.