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One thing you might look into (when you recover from your current work )  is a "Collage" app or program.  They're available on most platforms now, and allow you to combine several photos into one (sample photo attached).  Of course then you have to deal with the size, but often resizing and/or resaving a photo will reduce the size enough to use.

Thanks again for your efforts.

Good idea, the collage.  May I suggest that anyone using the collage approach limit the number of individual images to four total and two across.  This will minimize the extent of side scrolling required while reading posts and possibly making the collage vertical rather than horizontal if using more than four images. 

Besides wanting to do as little side scrolling as possible, I have other motivation.  I have been the process of reading and studying an excellent thread in "Knives" started by Wootz: "Knife tip grinding - To Pivot or Not To Pivot".  That is such and excellent exchange of information and development of concepts and so lengthy, that I wanted to export it for offline reading, including photos.  I've done that and ported it to MS Word where I am editing it to remove extraneous stuff, of which there is a lot. I will then print it as a PDF and store it in iBooks on my iPad for reading/study.   It is huge, 78 pages. 

My point here is that I've often had to save the photo images and insert them manually. I usually size the images to be about 3.5 - 4" max. to save space on the printed page and it is easier for page formatting. Inserting a single image wider than about four would exceed the page width and while setting the page to Landscape is possible, I'd rather. 

Just a thought,

Rick

The self sticking metal plate for storing the AngleMaster is not sticking to blue plastic side of mt T8. Tried cleaning it with paint thinner but that didn't work. Adhesive wouldn't hold for even a second. Tried more pressure, no joy. Resorted to supersticky double-sided carpet tape.  Seemed good and secure but only lasted a day. Anyone who has had this happen found a solution?

Rick

Rich,

I didn't even know about secondary facets until I started looking into alternatives to the Drill Doctor sharpening system.  As a matter of standard practice, I drill large diameter holes with successively increasing sized drills, going up a 16th or 8th inch, depending on the type and nature of the drilling (ie., plates on the mill or drill press, versus boring on the lathe, and of course material type).  As often as possible, I locate, often using a lazer centerfinder, and clamp the work in place so it can't move once the drilling starts (this is a given when using a mill as opposed to a drill press).

As part of my searching for drill bit sharpening, I came across Mazoff's article, which is one of the things that turned me toward the Tormek and which is one of the things that eventually, convinced me. 

The other aspect of the Tormek drill bit sharpening system is the device that holds the drill bit.  I have a good friend who has a high speed drill sharping machine.  It sharpens with the conventional wide, flat web and gradually tailing off relief.  Works great and I have sharpened most of my drill index sets with it (#1 - #60, 1/16"-1/2" and A-Z, but have not gone below about #42 on the smaller index set). When I saw that same holder (almost exactly the same), as part of the Tormek drill sharpening jig, I was super intrigued. 

The combination of using a drill holder device that strictly controelils the 180 deg rotation of the drill and the angle control for facet grinding is what sold me on the Tormek.  Also, while the Drill Doctor produced what could be called and industry standard angle and relief, I was just not impressed with the grind finish.  Nothing like new drills, entirely too coarse. 

I have yet to use a drill sharpened on the Tormek (got side-tracked exploring other sharpening aspects), but expect I'll be happy with them. 

Rick

As a newbie and as part of my character/penchant, I have been reading as much as I can of what has been discussed. Multiple reasons, but years ago my daughter correctly identified my affliction.  "Serially obsessed hobbies".  I'm actually a pretty normal guy, except for the SOH (hopefully, he said). 

To the point. Papa Woody asked for a jig for larger drill bits, but got no satisfaction.  Later, in an unrelated post/thread, Jan posted about not having the drill sharpening jig and how he made his own (Simple Jig for Drill Bit Sharpening, Jan. 6 2017). In the latter, it was discussed how that jig could be used for sharpening drills of almost any size. 

This seems a good solution for Papa Woody's predicament, assuming he could fabricate, or have it done, Jan's simple jig. 

Rick

My post must be lost in pixel land.

CB,
Thanks for posting the kenjig document on your website; that is a very convenient way to locate it.

Rick,
I live in Columbus. My wife and I moved here several years ago to be near our grandchildren.

As a machinist, you know that nothing is "exact", only "within tolerance" or not. While I fully appreciate the precision of finely machined tools and products, my "within tolerance" zone for things which have been hand sharpened for centuries is a bit more tolerant.

Keep posting.

Ken

Ken,

Like you, I recently (well, 11 months ago) moved from Portland, OR, where I had lived for 41 years (39 in the same house), to Halfway, OR to be near my granddaughter.  Halfway is a town of 300 people, in a ranching valley in far, far eastern OR, but the population of the dispersed ranching population is likely equal to the town's.  Major change, but I love it.  There is not even a stop light here.  If I have to wait for two cars at a stop sign, it is a traffic jam. 

Yes, I do know about tolerances and "good enough".  I simply enjoy working as closely as I can.  I do appreciate your comment about things having been hand sharpened for centuries as well. 

I've been studying some of the threads on your kenjig and others and will embark on making the kenjig soon.  Great stuff.

Rick

Thanks Guys,

The table does work in Excel. Thanks.  Thanks also for the links to the accuracy discussion and the embedded link.  I've printed those threads as PDFs and will study them offline. 

Going entirely metric on the Tormek was rolling around in my head, but I hadn't made up my mind. Your comments have concluded me on that.  Dang. might have to get more tools 

Ken, where in Ohio?  I was born in Dayton and only lived there one year, but still have an affinity.

I may have some difficulty with the "good enough" approach, but I definitely am into "consistency and repeatability". I am a hobby machinist mostly but do some woodworking now that I'm a GramPa, but I do like accuracy and precision.  I'm interested in learning about your kenjig.  Could you post a link, please? 

Thanks again,

Rick

Rick,

Clever use of your Starrett mini square. As an aside, I have a hobby curiosity in measurement and have collected Starrett tools. I still enjoy them, but have stopped collecting.

My original Substitute Target is a flat piece of 1/16" steel. (That's US big box hardware store measurement). I thinned it to 1.25mm (.050") and ground a bevel on one edge. I posted it, including a photo, on the forum. I found the plastic gift cards work well enough and are easier to trim. They are also less expensive than anything Starrett.

Ken

The Starret mini scale came from my father's machine shop.  Also have the inside 90 deg. center head, which I find very useful.

I plan to do the same with a dedicated piece of metal.  I have a lot of metal stock in various sizes, so should be able to find something suitable.

Rick

I am wondering if the lack of a point on the scale changes the angle much.  If so, it might be good to add a degree or two to compensate.

If you mean lack of a tip?... shouldn't make a difference... you're just measuring the straight part of the blade.  You do have to position the blade properly in the clamp to correctly sharpen the tip (as shown in the manual).

The thickness of your square might make a difference though... not sure how much.  Also, the measurement should be taken as close to the stone as possible... in your picture it looks like you're ½ way up the side of the scale.  (Measuring on a curve sorta changes the rules of what I was used to, if that makes sense... my experience anyway).

Sorry, improper use of lingo.  By tip I meant edge or bevel.  I plan to secure a piece of metal closer to the thickness of the knife blade and put a bevel on it for future sharpening. Thanks for the tip about positioning the Angle Master.

Rick

I've downloaded and studied Ton's excellent article on setting the grinding angle based on measurements of the length of the jig and distance from the support bar to the stone. No way I could come up with this. Excellent work.

Couple questions.

Fisrt. Is there a conversion of the tables to inch dimensions?  If not, I can do it, but it would be nice to avoid duplication of other's work.

Second. In practice, how have folks been determining/measuring the distance "S"?  The distance from the stone to the centerline of the Adjustable Clamp (AC) shaft immediately above the support shaft.  The distance from the support shaft to the centerline of the AC is about 6mm (0.236"). This difference is not accounted for in the article tables, at least as far as I have can tell. 6 mm is greater than the increments in Ton's table for the "S" dimension. Do you just shift a column/row in the table? Or?

Wondering,

Rick

Rick,

The marker method works well. I recommend a different procedure with the Anglemaster for all knives.

First, place your knife in the jig with the adjustable stop set screwed about in the middle (not critical).

Lay the jig on a piece of cardboard with the adjustable stop butted against one edge of the cardboard.

Mark a pencil line at the edge of the blade. This will give you the Projection of the knife blade in the jig.

Remove the knife from the jig. Place two thicknesses of gift cards or something similar in the jig. You want a flat surface approximately .060" (1.25mm) thick. Adjust the jig so that the Projection of the gift cards equals the line drawn by the knife Projection. I call this a Substitute Target. The thickness automatically centers it for the thickness of the Tormek knife jigs. It also provides a much needed flat (and parallel) platform for the Anglemaster.

While this technique is not in the handbook, it is part of the forum moderator's playbook. Try it.

Ken

Thanks Ken.  That is a very nice, straight forward and fast way of dealing with it.  I found the scale from a mini-Starret adjustable square to be almost exactly the width of the blade I wanted to sharpen (the one with the bevel edge at 32 deg) and inserted it to the same extent that the blade would be held (first photo).  Then I set the Angle Master and use it to set the angle for the blade, at 16 deg.  (second photo).  I am wondering if the lack of a point on the scale changes the angle much.  If so, it might be good to add a degree or two to compensate. 

Great method.

Thanks,

Rick

Attached is a close up of my first drill sharpened on my T8. Took it real slow and alternated sides frequently.  Getting the primary facets went pretty quickly.  Getting the secondary facets was taking forever and got to the point of no progress by the time it reached the web.  I finally took off a bunch of the rear on a bench grinder.  Finishing off the secondary facets went pretty quickly after getting rid of all that extra material (5/8" drill).  Thought I was finished and took it out of the jig to take photos, but on magnification, I could see the secondary hadn't reached the center.  So back in the jig to finish it up.  As a result, the second grind on the secondary doesn't span all the way to the tip of the flute, but I believe that shouldn't matter.  In the future, I'll grind the heel away before putting it in the jig. 

Rick

You're correct that you need to make the adjustment... but you need to adjust the other way.  ...

I would also mark the edge with a Sharpie marker, and make sure you're removing metal where you want.  (Manufacturer numbers and reality are often two different things).

Wow.  I struggled with this one, about increasing the angle.  Took me a while.  Went to my CAD program and drew it out, but that didn't make it for me.  It was in staring at the diagram and visualizing the blade angle and imagining aligning the Angle Master flat to the blade.  It is elevated relative to a parallel line, making the AM move to a high angle position.  Thanks.

I do use a Sharpie on all the edges, including drills.  Really helps. 

Rick

Reading the manual section on "Thin Knives", diagrams on angle setting using the Angle Master depict the thin knife as having parallel sides, except for the cutting edge.  That is not what my knives have.  Instead they are angled.  A statement attributed to Leatherman, regarding their multi-tool knives stated the angle of the main blade is 9 deg. and the cutting edge 32 deg. (IIRC).  The manual seems to indicate that the bevel angle (cutting edge) can be set directly off of the blade side, but that ignores the angle of the blade sides.  Doesn't one have to subtract half the angle of the blade in order to get the correct angle for setting on the Angle Master? 

In the case above, it would be half of 32 deg. (16) and half of the blade angle (4.5) for a setting angle for the Angle master of 11.5 deg.?

Thanks,

Rick

Newbie Here, First Post,

Just recently received a T8 and several jigs. I will be doing primarily drill bits and knives. Watched the videos and reading the manual and everything else I can find.  Came across references to a "Grinding Angle Adjustment booklet" and that it is posted on the forum. I've been searching for where it is posted so I can download it.  Can't find it, so I'm asking for help.

Thanks,

Rick