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Hi TJ,

First, make sure you select the right Tormek model option in the applet - by the numbers you give your applet is set for Tormek T-8.

I guess what you describe does not happen to every your knife, only to that with a narrow blade.
With narrow blades, we may need to first place its edge on the wheel so that the jig is cleared, and only then use the applet.

Try this way:
- clamp your knife in the knife jig within the first 2-3 mm of the spine;
- raise the Universal Support to approx 70-80 mm;
- by rotating the adjustable stop, place the edge of the blade on the wheel with the knife jig not touching it;
- now, measure the jig protrusion (jig length), enter the value in the applet and calculate the due height of the Universal Support for your target grinding angle of 12 dps.
As you set the Universal Support to the due height, the jig clamps should stay clear over the wheel.

If still a problem, we need to see a photo of your knife clamped in the jig and resting on the wheel of your Tormek.

The thread you need is just a few downwards: https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3780.0

Yes, you need to pivot, and need a pivoting adapter of a sort on your knife jig as pivoting the stock Tormek knife jig will not grind even bevels.
See if you can make one yourself, similar in functionality to the Pin Pivot Collar described in the above thread.

The "micro-serrations" concept contributes to the confusion as people tend to mistakenly generalize properties of the serrated edge onto the microscopic level of a ragged coarse edge. The saw teeth and the edge apex ragged by coarse scratches are not the same.
I've been there, it is a dead-end.

In his article about chipping of the edge https://knifesteelnerds.com/2018/05/28/chipping-of-edges/
Larrin explains why coarse edges are more prone to chipping, an excerpt: "... a knife edge sharpened to rougher finishes will have larger scratches than a finely sharpened edge, and these scratches can be thought of as pre-existing flaws."

Even those who favour the coarse "toothy" edge admit that the knife dulls faster as the "teeth" get broken off.

Meat plants are well aware that knives with coarse edges worsen product presentation and increase operators' fatigue and repetitive strain injuries. On the contrary, polished edges improve product quality through higher value cuts and increase throughput.

Premium wear-resistant knife steels are plainly incompatible with unpolished edge.
.

You can register your request for the Pin Pivot Collar on our website.
http://knifegrinders.com.au/11Shop.htm

Actually, by now we've got enough requests to justify another production run.
Just check our online shop in 3-4 weeks, when available you will see the BuyNow button.

The procedure is now supplemented with a video on our YouTube https://youtu.be/dhpajIaBW0c
We sharpen this way all single-bevel knives, not only the Japanese.

There was a question why the hanging strop for wire edge removal.
We use the hanging strop for single-bevel knives because asymmetry of their edge makes the wire edge removal somewhat tricky on the wheel. Also, stropping saves time when you do many knives and cleans the apex of the wire edge good enough.
But of course, a felt or Tormek leather wheel with 1-micron diamond paste removes the wire edge better than a plain leather hanging strop, even of the Kangaroo tail.

so the M390???.....too hard?

what about just paper wheels with diamond?.....Micro bevel and already decent apex???

By the time you apex the M390 on your SG wheel, the steel will be so tired that as you start cutting it will be chipping from the vanadium carbides tear-out. Combination of high vanadium, 60+ HRC hardness and relatively low hardness of the aluminium oxide SG wheel will result in the apex fracturing.

Niolox and K340 are molybdenum rich steels - molybdenum imparts toughness to these alloys, somewhat relieving them form the M390 problems.

They all can be beveled on the SG wheel.
But for the edge stability, edge in the hard alloy steels should be set on diamond or CBN #1000 - 1200.
It is impossible to set edge on paper wheels with the diamond paste - paper wheels are for deburring and honing the edge that is already there.

With what you have you can sharpen Niolox, and with some effort the K340.

You may need to thin away ends of the SVM-45, especially if it is the older version, they are not as slim as the last edition.

The devil is in the detail.
Alan first tried that frame type stand as in Gary's link, and told me that in his opinion the 4-leg type would probably be better for the workshop flat floor. He was pointing at some solid steel 4-leg stand. I went for 4-leg, but plastic.

I am not a bike person, and we are lucky to have so many friends with varying interests - Alan spotted the dirt bike stand that has the right sized top and height, and allows for splitting legs on its sides comfortably.

I was adding an extra Tormek to our workshop, and as we sharpen seated was looking around for a sturdy stand.
Alan from Illinois shared him using a dirt bike stand with me just on time.
By Alan's feedback, I picked a "MX Motocross Dirt Bike Motorbike Static Stand - BLUE" - "blue" of course to match the Tormek colour. Made of moulded plastic, has rubber anti-slip top.
Australian Dollars $60 delivered, in the USA should cost a handful of peanuts.
The top is a good match to the Tormek base in size, and the stand height is 43 cm - right on for my height of 170 cm.





This is an Australian eBay link: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-MX-Motocross-Dirt-Bike-Motorbike-Motorcycle-Static-Stand-BLUE/131857146226?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Mate, feel free to email me for advice, we have years of experience with them.
I love Tormek in its entirety and, honestly, am not comfortable talking about competitors' wheels on the Tormek own forum, even comparing the diamond wheel to CBN etc
One thing I can tell for sure is that the diamond/CBN coating is not the same on wheels made by this or that manufacturer, and when Tormek puts its name on the wheel you can trust its quality

For grinding into the wheel, as normally people do on Tormek,  you need our "Grinding Angle Setter" software for Tormek. Newstarters may confuse these two applets and mistakenly go for the FVB applet.
Function is different -  the "Grinding Angle Setter" is for grinding into the wheel in the normal Tormek position, while the "Frontal Vertical Base" is for grinding edge-trailing and honing on the leather wheel in front of the Tormek. The "Frontal Vertical Base" is a free application coming with the Frontal Vertical Base attachment, while the "Grinding Angle Setter" is  a paid software for Tormek.

Tormek honing paste is said to initially have 3-6 micron grains, with the majority near 3 microns, that with use break down to 1-micron grains.
Gap in honing grits usually goes by one order of magnitude.
So the next honing wheel after the Tormek honing paste should have grains of abrasive within 0.1-0.3 micron.

Chromium Oxide is in this range, as is diamond paste or thick emulsion of 0.1 micron, and up to 0.25 micron.
Unlike wth the Tormek honing paste, the finishing wheel layer should be very thin and well rubbed into the wheel, and the wheel itself should be smooth.

In the past I used CHROMOX with 0.25 micron diamonds on the finishing leather wheel, but nowadays I "paint" the wheel with the chromium oxide in oil, and rub in Jende 0.1-micron diamond emulsion.

We've done all that hard work to make it simple for you.

The Differential Honing is minimum 2-step, but better 3-step.

First hone away the bulk of the burr at the edge angle so that on the apex you have a feather burr or wire edge.
The edge set on #1000 is deburred with 3-6 micron honing compound like Tormek honing paste. But the edge apexed on a coarser wheel requires a coarser honing compound of 6-10 micron, like Autosol or Green Rouge etc.

Then de-root the burr at a higher angle with 1-micron diamonds; the majority of knife steels are done this way:
  - Stainless steel mainstream knives HRC <= 55 at + 2 degree higher;
  - Stainless steel quality knives HRC 56-58 at + 1.6 degree higher;
  - Premium kitchen knives at + 0.4 to 0.8 degree higher
  - Tool and wear-resitant steels at + 0.4 degree higher;
  - Steels listed in our book as prone to "negative burr" - at the edge angle.

Finishing cleanup:
Quality knife steels we do with 0.5/0.25-micron diamonds and chromium oxide;
Lower-end steels on a plain hanging leather strop w/o any honing compound.

Hello fellow tormeker

Im wondering on how can I tell if I have deburred the bevel ?
I don't have edgeonup. So can't get help From it.
Is it just to test one angle first and if not working then try an even greater angle?
Is there any "easier" way to know at what angle to deburr it other then trial and error?

Best regards

While it is not easy to detect wire edge in hard alloy high-end knives without special equipment, it is relatively simple in mainstream knives.
Please see this thread:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3954