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Topics - Rob

#22
Quote from: ionut on March 23, 2013, 07:15:37 PM
Hi Rob,

I see in one of the pictures the way you measure the angles, that will give you incorrect results if it wasn't done by intention. The lower corner of the black plastic angle indicator has to touch the stone in order to obtain the correct bevel angle.

All the best,
Ionut

Guys

This may just be me that has signally failed to appreciate this little subtlety Ionut noticed (from the threads about experimenting with the Torlok as a small knife rest).  If so then please ignore this post.  But I have to come clean and mention it in case a new user falls into the same trap.

Despite three diagrams in the manual on Pp 42-43 that clearly show the correct way to apply the anglemaster in situ...Ive been getting it wrong.  Many thanks for spotting that.  Typically I have the angle pointer about 2 or 3 mm up the blade from the stone when setting.  Now I think on it...of course thats wrong....the further away you take that bottom corner from the arc of the stone the more you raise the angle and thus calibrate your sharpening incorrectly.  Because im typically only say 2mm up, its only going to be a couple degrees at most but still.....great tip there.  Wonder if Im the only dunce??

The manual doesnt actually specify this in print....but then they perhaps weren't expecting some thick Englishman to read it :-)
#23
Wood Turning / Touch n turn feedback
March 24, 2013, 05:13:05 PM
I thought it worth mentioning to all wood turners thinking about getting the Tormek turners jig set.....just do it

I started turning relatively recently having previously used my Tormek for other woodworking edge tools and kitchen knives.

I bought the jigs and moaned about the price as one does.

Well, it's turned out to be by far the best value I've extracted from my Tormek. Particularly fingernail grind bowl gouges in my case. I was dreading sharpening them at the start but needn't have worried. The Tormek chews them up and spits them out in seconds. It is absolutely invaluable and my turning operation would grind to a halt (pardon the pun) in no time without the old faithful
#24
Hi folks

Another topic area where I've come unstuck a few times

I've learned the whole photobucket thing for pics and there's a long thread about that earlier. But sometimes I would like to append other artefacts.  Drawings being the usual thing

Herman I notice you've added a few annotated diagrams over the months, I'm guessing you drew them in paint?

Could you confirm please and if so....how do you actually post them?  Do they behave the same as a pic?

Also does anyone know if you can post office documents here?  I'm thinking either a spreadsheet for tabular data and/ or PowerPoint or word for other things
#25
Well, it doesn't really work I'm afraid. If you mount it normally ie with tightening knob facing out as it should be, the side facing the grindstone is too short.

#26
Hi Folks

I've noticed a number of posts recently where we're getting our wires crossed with two things related to knife bevel angles:

1) The terminology - specifically the notion of "included angle" versus "bevel angle"
2) An appropriate angle setting for sharpening depending on the job the knife is to perform

My sense is its worth a post to try and develop this so we can do two things: have a common language so we understand one another and maybe if it ends up as a definitive piece - a summary for the learners sticky.

The problem is clear - multiple input sources name things differently.  We now have inputs from Tormek, Jeff, the forums own experience, Ron Hock and the CEO of Lee Valley Tools to name the obvious ones.

So here's my attempt to run it up the management flagpole....see what drops out

Included Angle

This is the sum of the two bevel angles (naturally it is only relevant in double bevel knives) ie if a bevel angle is 10o then the included angle is 20.  Critical to defining which angle you grind to of course.

Whats the right angle for the job?

My personal view out of the sources I've come across....the Leonard Lee approach from "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" Taunton Press.  The only reason I choose this is because out of all the editorial I've read...he makes the most sense to my intuition.  Mr Lee has this to say (incidentally I use his kitchen knife angles every day in my kitchen and it works for me)

- The practical test of sharpness for a kitchen knife is if it will slice bread, meat, soft veg.
- since these materials exert minimal forces on the cutting edge, you do not have to police your bevels very closely.
- You can sharpen most at bevel ranges from 5 to nearly 20 (10 to nearly 40 included) without being overly concerned about edge retention.
- Great flexibility resides here and within this range whats right for you is what you feel comfortable you can consistently achieve
- exceptions exist for knives that are destined to chop, cut through bone, divide frozen meat etc ie have to work harder then slicing
- for chopping he recommends included of 30deg, for cleavers 50deg

So in short the principle is clear....a yielding substrate (tomato etc) requires only a fine angle.....the more resistance the substrate offers the more obtuse the angle should be.

So once on to pocket knives etc that are out of the kitchen and cutting all manner of things from fishing line to stripping the bark off a willow stick to make your sons first bow and arrow.....over to you.

What would be helpful at the end of this is a short summary table something like

Knife type          Bevel Angle          Included Angle

kitchen slicing         5                        10
Kitchen chopping     15                      30
Kitchen cleaver        25                      50
pocket knife            20                       40
Fish filleting knife    5                         10

etc                         
#27
Here's what Wikipedia says

Bob's your uncle is an expression of unknown origin, commonly used in Britain and Commonwealth nations. Typically, someone says it to conclude a set of simple instructions for example: 'left over right; right over left, and bob's your uncle - a reef knot'. It is sometimes elaborately phrased Robert is your father's brother or similar for comic effect. With his customary whimsical humour, P.G. Wodehouse extended it to "Robert's your father's nearest male relative".
#28
General Tormek Questions / Taps and dies
March 13, 2013, 09:44:35 AM
Hi folks

Apologies for this starting way off topic but I've been reading with interest the posts on cutting threads.  This is something I've never done but have the occasional need to.

Many of you clearly have lots of experience....any pointers please at the right tools (quality wise) to purchase and some simple starter information would be gratefully received.

Many thanks
#29
I appreciate this isn't strictly Tormek related but the knowledge re all things sharpening in this forum is invaluable

I find when I'm cutting turning blanks its not long before the bandsaw blades go off the boil and at about £15 a pop, id rather sort them at home than keep shelling out the wedge

#30
Kens post about dressing reminded me of this classic bear trap...

How much is enough and what type seem to be the most often asked..

Mineral oil from your pharmacist and very little indeed seem to be the considered response.

I used 3 in one oil and think I got away with it but apparently its the wrong viscosity compared to mineral oil which is the best choice.  There is then a whole myriad of problem solving that goes on once the wheel is over oiled (or too dry).  So best avoid it in the first place
#31
Does anyone know how you get a hyperlink that takes you to a different thread embedded in a post please?  For example if you are referring to an earlier set of threads
#32
General Tormek Questions / I've seen the light!
March 07, 2013, 12:59:06 PM
Lets see if this
#33
Please excuse my indulgence. Photobucket has various different config options for posting pics directly up into threads. I'm just testing which works. All those wishing to post pics should benefit

First option is what pb call Direct link

]
#34
Dear all

It occurred to me as I was reading the threads giving advice to John last night that a useful resource for all new Tormek owners would be some kind of "starter pack" from this forum

I don't mean anything too onerous, just a collection of threads documenting the primary do's and don'ts. New users could be directed to it as a helpful knowledge resource

I appreciate people have the manual etc but let's be honest, user manuals are always a little dry to absorb and the Tormek one is about the best I've ever seen for any tool. As Ken so eloquently puts it.....the closest analogy to the correct approach to all things Tormek is akin to an apprenticeship.

I'm not sure what form this might take or even if this idea is a complete banana.  I just thought it might help to be able to point new users at one place....to begin so to speak

Almost inevitably they will start with either plane, chisel or knife so we could have the "ten commandments" for each of those processes. Obviously number one would be watch Jeff's DVDs and read the manual but beyond that, this forum is of such value.....how could we distill, summarise and permanently record these golden nuggets for the benefit of all?

I'm not a big forum user myself apart from this one so don't know the mechanics of how you store and retrieve threads etc

I'm quite prepared to be told I'm talking bollox by the way so feel free to shoot me down

Rob
#35
General Tormek Questions / Chrome vanadium steel
February 28, 2013, 02:12:15 AM
I've just read a promotion for chrome vanadium bench chisels and it suddenly occurred to me I have no idea where chrome vanadium is on the hardness and edge retention continuum

I'm guessing that the very fact it's being advertised as a virtue must mean its meant to be hard right?

So does anyone know the detail, is it closer to high speed steel or closer to carbon steel?  Also is it what the books call an "exotic alloy"?

Many thanks

Rob
#36
In the words of the old bard himself.....

Can I sharpen scissors without the jig?

I have every jig except the axe and scissor jig.......trying to resist but I do need to sharpen three pairs of scissors!
#37
Well folks

I installed the blackstone and ground a factory fresh HSS deep flute bowl gouge to a good fingernail grind. Specifically to jig setting 4 (55deg)' protrusion 65mm, hole A on the tts.

So not quite Ellsworth but a good deep fingernail grind. The blackstone had the wings a good 3/8" back in no time. Total grind time to back on the lathe from out of the sleeve was about 12 minutes.

Not bad at all. I wore high magnification reading glasses and could see the steel flying off the tool. I'm happy again :-)

I still have a realistic expectation for modest speed on the planar blades but that will be the next test.  Was really chuffed with its first tour though

Rob
#38
I've been thinking about that old post from Ionut about grading the wheel (carefully) with no water in the tray

I haven't tried it myself yet.

In a similar vain.....

Suppose you wanted to take loads of metal off during a shaping operation, couldn't you grind dry for short bursts....only thinking out loud and haven't tried it. I guess there would be no cooling and no swarf removal, so there wouldn't be any point right?

Somehow though, intuitively, it seems like it would be more aggressive?

Rob
#39
This is picking up on the thread on planar blade sharpening but is more generic so figured here is the appropriate place

Jeff you advised activating the SG using the corner of the grader because that's more aggressive. I entirely understand that and have always done it ever since watching your DVD for turners

One minor detail occurred to me as I was blasting into my SG during my planar sharpening.  My corners on the grader have all worn smooth some time ago. Is there any cutting tool you know of that can kind of reactivate the re activator? (If you know what I mean)

I'm thinking is there some way to get corners back in the 220 side of the grader or does that not matter? 

Many thanks in advance

R
#40
I'm thinking of getting one specifically for HSS planar blade sharpening.  Can anyone testify that it really works well ie shifts steel fast?