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Well, you have a Tormek with a honing wheel.  Even if the SJ does not kick up much of a burr, I'd just go ahead and use it.  But that's just me, I figure at the very least it can't hurt.

I use a PT50B from Edge On Up.  www.edgeonup.com  Their testers have been discussed at length here.  If you search around you can find a bunch of threads about sharpness testing and testers.

Not sure how you'd pull that off on a lathe.  CNC mill would work though.

I am a firm believer in deburring.  Any remaining burr on an edge is the enemy of sharpness because it will either get mashed down and cover the edge or fold over to one side.  Either way it "hides" the true sharp edge of the blade.

If you do nothing else, just strop about 20 times with firm pressure on the blue jean material on your thigh.  This can be very effective.  No leather or compound needed.  It's the stropping that's important because it bends the remaining burr back and forth until it fatigues and breaks off exposing the solid sharpened edge.  A burr is a weak pile of crap on the edge of a sharpened blade.  You really want to get rid of it.

If you get a sharpness tester you can actually prove this. Add a microscope and you see it too.  Here's a test I did:
http://bessex.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=40

So, and this is just IMHO, even if the final abrasive used in the sharpening process is very fine, I'd still at least give it a quick stropping on my blue jeans.  Try it!  You might be pleasantly surprised that you can actually feel the difference with you fingers even if you don't have a sharpness tester.

Welcome to the forum!

After you are finished using the machine, clean/empty the tray.  Don't leave the wheel sitting in water when the machine is not in use.  Several hours probably would not make much difference, but when you are done for the day, clean/empty the tray and let the wheel dry out.  Refill the tray when you are going to use the machine again.

Hanging the wheel on a wood dowel is good way to store it. 

I know from personal experience the tendency to over think this stuff.  The T8 is a tough, built to last piece of equipment that will stand up to every day shop use.  For the most part, just treat it with respect just like you would with any other piece of quality equipment and use common sense.  You'll do fine! 

White lithium grease my contain additives and solvents that result in liver and central nervous system damage or worse.  At the very least diarrhea, vomiting and other pleasantries are quite possible, so having an anti-emetic on hand might be handy. 

For culinary adventures, I'd stick with Super Lube or other known, food grade lubricants. 

That gives me an idea of something to enjoy with my morning coffee!  How about warm cinnamon buns drizzled with a Vaseline glaze?  Yum, yum!   

From a culinary perspective, just consider it as the toufu of synthetic grease.  It is completely tasteless and neither adds nor detracts from a dish, but most definitely imparts it's own unique texture.

Super Lube is super for that too.

http://www.super-lube.com/synthetic-multipurpose-grease-ezp-49.html

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B06WLQ251B

That Amazon price is way too much.  It's about $3.50 @ Home Depot.

I squirt the stuff like holy water for lots of my lubrication needs!  I'd bathe in it if I could.  It's very hydrophobic so it works well in a Tromekian environment.  It also works well for stuff like hand pruners and odd little lube needs like the ends of garden hose.  Put some all around inside of the hose ends and they screw/unscrew easily, the seals stay supple and it's still there at the end of the year.  I have yet to see it break down and make a disgusting mess.

Not only all that, but it's also food grade so if you get some on your fingers you can just lick them clean.  Rather bland though.  A few spices would help a lot.

I would not just use it like it is, but rather, at least try smoothing the surface with the truing tool so there is no bump where the damage is.  That might be good enough. 

Observing the damage, it almost looks like if you just removed some of the surface so that the surface was flat, you might not notice the chip in the edge while sharpening.

It looks as if where it is bashed in has caused a bump in the surface.  I'm sure you would notice that, but maybe, just maybe, if you you removed just enough to flatten the surface it might work?  I'd at least give that a try before taking more desperate steps.

Hopefully someone else will chime in with ideas on how to remove a bunch of stone.

I have no experience with those blades in particular, but you can sharpen a round blade by placing the blade on the bottom half of the scissors jig as a work rest, or some other contraption you can dream up to hold the blade.

The problem I see is the plastic hub getting in the way being able to mount it on the Tormek, especially if the bevel is on the top side of the blade.

The only way I've seen it done is with hand files.  Just guessing, but you might be able to do it with something like an Edge Pro.  That would be desirable as it would provide precise bevel angle control.

That said, I'd keep in mind the cutter environment.  If the blade fractured or chipped the metal would be exquisitely combined with foodstuff, and could lead to a less than desirable outcome.   It's a good idea to always inspect blender and food processor blades after each use.

Blades in that environment, especially if used for chopping hard substances such as nuts or ice cubes, etc., are no doubt subject to metal fatigue over time.  I don't know, but maybe it's a good idea to replace them after years of use? 

Cuisinart has recalled 8 million food processors dating back to 1996 due to fracturing blades:

https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/food/wp/2016/12/14/8-million-cuisinart-food-processor-blades-have-been-recalled-yours-may-be-one-of-them/?utm_term=.7eaa3377399c

And indirectly I think Herman brings up another good point.  Anything done for a long time seems easy, but everybody here was once a beginner.  I know from personal experience it's easy to forget that and skip over important details learned along the way.

I know I learned a lot from folks that were willing to take the time to share their knowledge with me me, and for that I'm grateful. 

So if you have any questions at all, just ask away!

All you should need to do is to use the honing wheel.  If you think there might still be some burr, try using some magnification under a good light.

Another way to check for burr is to use cotton ball, piece of gauze or other easily snagged material and carefully and gently drag it down the edge and along either side of the edge.  If a burr is there it will snag the material.  It actually works pretty well.

Another option is a USB microscope.  They are inexpensive, fun and very informative as far a seeing what is happening on the edge.

HI,

Are there any chances after I have sharpened my kitchen knives,that small bits of steel or burr could come off and end up in my food. If so how is the best way to avoid that? Eg cleaning method first.

Thanks Stevo.

Absolutely some of the burr will come off into your food.  Just think how many people use those electric kitchen knife sharpeners and don't know that!  Yikes!     Parmesan roasted broccoli with steel shards in sweet brown butter and garlic sauce.  Sounds tasty, eh? Yum, yum! 

Removing the burr is as important as the actual sharpening.  You may find these interesting:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3271.msg19392#msg19392

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3271.msg19394#msg19394

Like Ken says; use the honing wheel.  That's why you have a honing wheel.  Sharpening is only half the process.  You've got to remove the burr.

Jan, You mean you are not just trying to pester me? 

I'm guessing that it's about 200X because that is the max optical magnification my scope will do and that's always what I use.  It also looks like other blade images I've done where I did calibrate.

The burr in that image was very long.  Easily visible to the naked eye.  It was some time ago, but "if" memory serves, some if it could have been .5mm off the edge of the blade.  It was indeed a unique burr.

How does steel do something like that?  It almost seems like it was sort of smeared off the surface of the bevel.  I remember being somewhat amazed when I saw it.

Stevo,

The little square images are thumbnails.  You can view a thumbnail full size by clicking on it, but you must be logged in for that to work. If you are not logged in, you should be able to see the thumbnail, but clicking on it won't enlarge it. 

If you have further questions just let us know.