Messages

Tormek for primary bevel
Edge with paper wheels (budget) or F Dick RS-150 Duo (deluxe)
Paper wheels gives the sharper edge
RS-150 gives a slicing edge, less skill needed and more repeatable.

BTW, I just finished a gig with my smaller rig, a T4 and an RS-75 SERR. The SERR had a wide enough flat (1/8) to hone straight edges plus has serrated capability. I used a similar rig for the BSA Jamboree. It all fits in the passenger seat of my sports car.

...there was room for his ass and a gallon of gas,
But his balls hung out and he lost them.

Affinity has located our missing shipment of US-400 and will be shipping them Friday or Monday.
Since I am snowbirding in AZ w/o my normal computer and printer I have requested that they ship them directly to you customers.
Thanks for you patience.

Affinity Tools has  anew video on the T2.
https://affinitytool.com/tormek-t-2-pro-kitchen-knife-sharpener

Red line lasers and pointers are supposedly safe even for accidental short direct viewing. However you can buy lasers that will cause immediate and permanent loss of vision. Stick with laser levels, etc.

I use a T7 in my shop but like to carry my T4 out for smaller jobs. The handle is awkward and off center. Ken reported he carries his in a bowling ball bag. I looked for a bbb at W-mart and did not find one, but came across a 42 can rolling cooler for $30. I put an 8x8 box in the bottom for the wheel and the T4 sits on it. It even fits with the US105 in place. Pockets on the top and front hold additional stuff. Did I mention it rolls?

US400s have not been received from Sweden yet.  I have requested an additional 8. I'll keep you posted. Correct URL to order is
sharpeningmadeeasy.com/tormek2.htm

Thanks for the question and the compliment, Ken.
I let the angle be my guide to roughness. 90% of scissors are 30 degrees or less and a rough rind is fine, ie Tormek SG or SB. As they approach knife edge, >40 degrees. I polish the edge. That i usually only the finger blade on dressmaker shears.
Some mysteries.  KAI makes an excellent shear, 7000 series, that have two knife edges. When I resharpen them they cut like new but the edge does not last like new. Problem never solved.
I also worked on a pair of high leverage shears (long handles) that I could not get to stop pushing fabric. Owner had then sharpened by her sewing machine repairman and they were perfect. I never did find out why.

If you are interested in a US400 you need to order it NOW. I notified everyone who contacted me personally a few days ago and notified this forum yesterday but only one person has actually placed an order. I do not want anyone to be disappointed.

The US 400 Extended Universal Support is now officially for sale. Order here

http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/tormek2.htm

The US 400 Extended Universal Support is now officially for sale. 12 pieces are on order and 9 are already spoken for.
Order here

http://sharpeningmadeeasy.com/tormek2.htm

Today I had the honor of sharpening for Cleveland's premier test cook and food stylist. I'm retired but make exceptions for family and friends, especially one as pretty and talented as Heidi. Her knives are never in bad shape and the 4 took about 10 min while we listened to my wife practice Gershwin's Blue Lullaby.

I recall a lot of scissors with wide bevels, worn back into the blade, and having to remove enough metal to create a new edge, ie no reflection on the radius caused by wear.
And honestly I have not sharpened a pr of scissors on a Tormek for over a decade. TAS and Viel are much faster and easier.

Another opinion: Scissors require a bit more metal removal than knives, so I recommend grading to 220 to sharpen them. No further honing is needed. Remove the burr by closing the scissors without letting the edges touch, then hold them together as you open them. Burr will roll right up out of the contact or ride area and will actually become part of the cutting edge.

My wife commented one morning at market that it was taking me 10 min to sharpen scissors, compared to 2 min for knives. That inspired me to purchase a TAS scissor sharpener. The primary grinding wheel on all model TAS (except for salon shears) is 120 grit and I leave 90% of scissors with that. Only high end dressmaker shears get the honing wheel used, and then only on the finger blade. The thumb blade lft rough helps keep the fabric from pushing.

A final note - as you sharpen you are also creating a secondary burr on the back of the bevel. If you can feel it it can drag on fabric and should be smoothed with a fine hone.  See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKdFyozNgMA

5 minutes is not unreasonable to make a repair of this magnitude. 0.5 mm along a full blade is a lot of metal tp remove. But at 6 to 8 minutes I would say you were not pressing hard enough. That takes practice and confidence, but it is the secret of faster grinding on a Tormek.

SJ wheel diameter appears to be slightly larger that your SG stone, leading to a mismatch in the angles. Probably too small to readjust, just hone that area a bit longer.
I recommend adjusting hte jig for SJ 1 or 2 degrees higher and justing honing the edge, not the full bevel.

Probably a typo (T2?)... but the US-400 was a standard issue USB at one time?  (Even their history page doesn't show it).

The US-400 or something like it was standard on an all stainless steel Tormek sold to the food industry only in Europe. I think the model was T-4000.