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This topic has been moved to Knife Sharpening.

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1773.0

This topic has been moved to Knife Sharpening.

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1768.0

Hi, Use the edge on the stonegrader , it works well. Also use it a bit more often, then it should be better.

There is no reason using Honerite, but if you are using a CBN wheel you may need Honerite to prevent the wheel itself from rusting.

The easiest way is to use a bottle with a pippet and start the machine, use the pippet and start from one end, have a nice oil flow and go to the nex side of the honingwheel. This way you have a constant oilflow and can do the same procudure some times till the leather has enough oil.
See that you get an nice dark brown color on the leather. Be carefull and be sure that the oil goes in the leather. To much oil will give the leather i shiny look so keep an eye on the leather so it dont.

Thats works too, move it so you dont get edges in the stonegrader, thats enoying to have.

If you move the stonegrader sideways and "tip" it and use some pressure it should not be any problems even on the SB-250.

The honingwheel needs some oil I guess, and as Herman writes, some compound 

You will get a really good finish on the SB-250 but since it made for harder materials it will clogg easier than the SB-250.
You will need to use the stonegrader to hold it activated, but in the same time, you need to use the SP-650 even on the SG-250 to find a good speed of sharpening.

Thats going to solve your problem! When you then are doing the secondery facett you need to use the magnifier to see that the tip will be perfect!

I do, but the first time I tried it I forgot to use both the primary and secondary depth adjustment screw and then the drillbit was no fun!
I moved the holder to the secondary screw but adjusted the secondary depht with the primary screw. And that made it hard to get it right.

Some serrated knives has an small angle on the blades backside, that you could sharpen but as Jeffs55 writes, there is no easy way doing this.

I think you need to take two steps back ;-) Your missing something, cant figure it out but you should check out the video if you dont have done that

http://tormek.com/international/en/grinding-jigs/dbs-22-drill-bit-sharpening-attachment/

and then follow the instruction again. Every step is neccesery to follow.

Stickan

Nice list! You could ad Sandvik steel 12C27, stainless with very longlasting edge. Used by many Scandinavian knive companies (Frost, Mora of Sweden, EKA etc.)

I´m a knife nut too and have some nice chef knives and we have rules att our home how to treat the more expensive knives 

Never in the dishwasher, always handwash, dry them and hang them on a magnet holder.
If you have a woodblock to have your knives in, put the knives in on their backside.
Always use the backside when removing meat/sallad and such from the cuttingboard.

This easy things makes my japanese knives sharp for a long time and i sharpen them about once a year, but I use the honing wheel about 2-3 times a year.

And each steel has various reaction on the edge you will give them.
I dont need to (or my wife, she is the chef in the house) have the knifes under 20 degrees. Mine are mainly about 20-30 degrees, fine for sallad and meat.

Hi,
Contact Tormek support and they will give you the answer directly 
Send a picture of the bit!

Stickan