Messages

Ionut

I'm not sure what you mean by your comment "even though there is a lot of humidity in the air where I live"

You make it sound like we live in wet environment like a coastal rain Forrest, Oh that's rite we do!  

Boy are you rite.

Yes it isn't a big deal now that we have a Tormek.

Another plus if you are looking a Veritas is the fact that the blade is thicker then many others.

I would go with A2 my self because the edge will last longer but that's just my opinion.

I am not able to find the post here but here is a link to some good information on A2 vs O1 Tool Steel.

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/a2-vs-o1-tool-steel/

Hope this helps

Dan

Hi Steve

There was some very good info on this topic I read here I will have a look for it
It may have been Ionut with very good info on A2 or O1

Has any one out there had any experience with glue line rip blades?
If so can you let us know what brand & how well they worked & is there a thickness barrier.

Dan

That one worked.

I see my link to Freud did not work.
Try again.


http://www.freud.ca/English/Pages/Blades/Industrial/Ripping/Ripping2.html

I will.
Thanks Steve.
I looked into some of these along time ago & they all were at a cost.
I like free

Dan

Hi Steve
I have the Freud Glue Line Rip Blade Glue Line Rip Blades
• Produces extremely smooth glue line rips in hard and soft wood from 1/8" to 1" thick

I think I tried it with thicker material & it makes a horrible noise but now I am not sue, I think I will try it again because I can't remember.

do you thing you would have had alignment problems without the biscuits?

I never used biscuits years ago but It can help.
When I worked in a commercial shop we just lined up 1 end & had some one on the other end (usually me) & lifted or tweaked the boards as necessary to aline the top & clamped as you go but this would be very difficult by your self.

The guy I worked for was amazing & what he could do but never used jigs or many other helpers that you see now in wood working.

He could be called a raw woodworker

I have done a couple of 10" long maple tops & started by jointing the edge on my 6" jointer (66" long) & I did use roller stands but kept the height below the in or out feed table (only used to take the weight after complete pass)
The client wanted 2 1/2" finished thickness so this allowed me to rip all the material over size orientating the grain so that the expansion occurs in the thickness not the width then I sticker it over night to acclimatize.
Then I jointed 1 edge of each piece & then I ripped the opposing side using feather boards. ( I would have used a glue line rip blade but they say not to be used for 1" & over wood)
If the boards were good & strait I would run the boards tipped edge over the jointer.
I used biscuits to help align during glue-up & laminate planks no wider then my planer (13") then plane the blanks, then glue the planed blanks together using biscuits to help align during glue-up then you only need to do hand plane the seems.
I used Tide bond III & Tung oil, I did not want any film finish because they were going to use it as cutting board & it becomes a mess & is harder to re-finish later.
During glue up the boards are not perfectly straight to each other but it takes so little force to bring the boards together that it does not pose a problem at the glue line.


It has worked for me & has been in place for 5 years now with no problem.
Dan

I have sniped allot before but not by using software I did it by being there at the time of the auction so it only worked If I was at a computer.
I would wait till the last 2 seconds but for the last couple of years this doesn't work any more there seems to be a delay from the time I post to the time e-bay receives my post & had to shoot much earlier making it hard to time.

The picture did not come through so I will send the ink to the page.

http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/Q00POND.htm

Hi Steve

I am using The Stone Pond by Veritas.
It does work good & is adjustable to fit different size stones & holds 2 stone ready & will hold 1 or 2 more in the bottom.
The stones in the holder do rock a bit but doesn't pose a problem.

I love the look of the Shapton Sharpening Pond but it looks like it may be very specific to fit their stone but I don't know for sure.


The price is a little scary at $198.95.
The Stone Pond by Veritas is $62.50

Thanks
Can we trade in the stars for Tormek Accessories