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Messages - Herman Trivilino

#46
Quote from: RickKrung on April 08, 2019, 07:36:30 AM
I don't get it, but it is very difficult to find any of the cracks that were so evident before in the SJ stone.

Hmmm...  Could be the cracks were filled with the slurry created during the truing process. Then, as the stone dried, the slurry in the cracks melded with the rest of the stone. Sort of like the familiar caking process seen in so many granular materials.

The soil here is a mixture of clay and sand. When dry it can be ground up and sifted to create a powder, let it get wet and it will cake together when it dries out and form a clump.

#48
General Tormek Questions / Re: Drive Wheel
April 07, 2019, 04:18:25 AM
Installed the new drive wheel today. It comes with a new nut, significantly wider than the original. The drive wheel gets a much better grip. It's a lot harder to stall the grindstone.

The old drive wheel has two stress cracks. They start at the center hole and go radially outward, forming almost a straight line. That appears to account for the side-to-side wobble. And the noise. The machine is considerably quieter now.
#49
General Tormek Questions / Re: Drive Wheel
April 06, 2019, 05:03:11 AM
Ken, back in the day, I would put away two full length subs, no problem. Now it's a half sub for me every time. Love Jrecks in northern NY, but the subway chain around here is alright.

I've had my Tormek for 17 years, I think. Anyway, the new drive wheel is on its way, should be here tomorrow! Sharpening the paring knives will be the first task.
#50
General Tormek Questions / Re: Drive Wheel
April 05, 2019, 02:34:31 AM
Quote from: Ken S on April 04, 2019, 11:33:41 AM
Have you tried the handbook drive wheel  first-aid of roughing up the rubber drive wheel a bit with sandpaper?

I do that pretty often, Ken.

QuoteAlso, at some point, Tormek switched to a patented rubberlike substance which has more gripping power.

Good to know. The grip never really was that great from the beginning. Once Jeff taught me the sandpaper trick that helped a lot. But that was some time ago.

I ordered the new wheel yesterday right after I posted. Should make it run better than new. Expensive upgrade, though. Maybe not compared to a new Tormek, but a new Tormek is a major investment for me. I don't really use it as much as other posters, but it's indispensable. I'm on my third grindstone and still using the original stone grader.


#51
General Tormek Questions / Drive Wheel
April 04, 2019, 06:01:33 AM
I have the SuperGrind2000, which is basically the T-7 only older and the color is green instead of blue.  ;)

The machine was purchased in the year 2002. The drive wheel has a side-to-side wobble. If I recall correctly this drive wheel is made of plastic whereas the ones available now are made of metal.

I'm seeing a price of just under $72.92 plus $9.95 shipping.

The sound of my machine undulates at the same frequency as the wheel spins. And the drive shaft doesn't get a very good grip on the drive wheel.

Has anyone else had a similar experience?
#52
Knife Sharpening / Re: Finishing the Edge
March 08, 2019, 03:28:35 AM
If you drag the knife edge across an old cotton towel or the like the burr will snag threads out of the fabric and you can see them under good light, or with a magnifier if necessary. You can use this technique to determine if you reached the edge while grinding, and you can also use it to see if you've removed the burr. You can save a lot of honing by carefully making that last light pass while sharpening.
#53
Knife Sharpening / Re: How hollow is the hollow grind?
January 06, 2019, 07:16:55 AM
Quote from: Pastor_Zatx on December 23, 2018, 01:43:46 PM
With CBN or diamond on the sides of the wheel I could sharpen a knife with an entirely flat bevel, but if the 8-inch wheel doesn't create much of hollow grind, then I could get by with the cheaper wheels.

Have you tried to sharpen a knife on the side of the grindstone that came with your T-4? I doubt that sharpening on the side of any grindstone would not work very well.

Plus, as others have pointed out, the hollow is too small to have an effect on how the knife performs.
#54
Knife Sharpening / Re: Grinding question
September 01, 2018, 03:35:14 AM
Quote from: RickKrung on August 23, 2018, 07:15:25 AM
I used the Scissor Jig (SVX-150) platform and added a length of aluminum plate.  I believe others have used the Tool Rest platform (SVD-110). 

The tool rest won't work because the platform is too far from the rotation axis. You need something like the base of the scissors jig.

The tool rest works well for blunt edge angles. Knives are sharpened at much smaller angles.
#55
Knife Sharpening / Re: Tinkering with the T7
May 27, 2018, 05:47:34 AM
Quote from: kwakster on January 30, 2018, 05:42:10 PM
With Herman's original version it looks to me like your left hand holding the knife handle could be obstructed somewhat by the rest of the scissor jig that sticks out on that side.

This is the reason I made the platform thicker on later versions. It's about 0.5 inches (12 mm) thick. This will also help with the rigidity issue.
#56
I have found that the inexpensive adhesive-backed felt found in craft stores works well to prevent scratching. The mineral oil sounds like a dandy idea, too.

One member here reported no issues with scratching, and I guess that's due to him applying much less force to the platform. Use the platform as a guide to help you keep the blade at the right angle, but apply most of the force to the grindstone, very little force to the platform.

Note that the user manual discusses the fact that Tormek jigs are designed in such a way that when grinding edge tools, most of the force is applied to the grindstone, touted as a major advantage of the Tormek system. This may be the reason why the only Tormek platform jig is designed for edge angles that are far too blunt for knives.
#57
Quote from: cbwx34 on April 02, 2018, 12:15:22 AM
Quote from: Herman Trivilino on April 01, 2018, 11:40:21 PM
Adjusting the collar used to be necessary for fine-tuning the angle, but that was before the micro-adjust feature was introduced. The SVM-45 is an ancient jig, but it's not clear how the suggested improvements could be engineered. The Tormek will allow one to easily adjust and measure the edge angle to within a couple degrees or more, and for me that's more than enough precision. I usually change the edge angle on a kitchen knife by 5 degrees if I want to alter the way it performs.

Slicing papers and arm hairs is all for show, although it does indeed demonstrate sharpness. It's the amount of roughness on the surface of the bevels that determines how a knife will perform in the kitchen. Sometimes you want the edge polished; but sometimes you want it rough, with a "tooth" to it. The Tormek allows for this variation well enough for me.

The collar still turns, so if the micro-adjust made it unnecessary... seems they could have locked it in place?  There are numerous examples of the suggested improvements (although Tormek would probably  have to come up with its own variation).


No one is saying that the micro-adjust made adjustments of the collar of the SVM-45 unnecessary. It is still needed for some adjustments, but the micro-adjust makes it not critically necessary for fine adjustments of the angle.

QuoteAs for precision, look no further than examples in this forum, where some are measuring in tenths. ;)

No one has ever demonstrated that they can use the SVM-45 to create an angle that's uniform to within a tenth of degree along the length of an edge. Not even close. I would bet that the best, most experienced sharpeners couldn't even achieve one degree, probably a few degrees is the best they could do.

Making a measurement that's accurate to within a tenth of a degree is not the same thing as being able to reproduce something to that level of precision.
#58
Quote from: cbwx34 on April 01, 2018, 10:00:32 PM
from my understanding, the "collar lock" was eliminated because users were over-tightening and breaking the collar, or stripping the threads.

Adjusting the collar used to be necessary for fine-tuning the angle, but that was before the micro-adjust feature was introduced. The SVM-45 is an ancient jig, but it's not clear how the suggested improvements could be engineered. The Tormek will allow one to easily adjust and measure the edge angle to within a couple degrees or more, and for me that's more than enough precision. I usually change the edge angle on a kitchen knife by 5 degrees if I want to alter the way it performs.

Slicing papers and arm hairs is all for show, although it does indeed demonstrate sharpness. It's the amount of roughness on the surface of the bevels that determines how a knife will perform in the kitchen. Sometimes you want the edge polished; but sometimes you want it rough, with a "tooth" to it. The Tormek allows for this variation well enough for me.

#59
Quote from: cbwx34 on February 04, 2018, 03:20:20 PM
I redraw your attention to the aforementioned SVD-110.  ::)

The Tormek philosophy, and this is addressed somewhere in the manual, is that when the grinding angle is steep one can adequately apply enough force to the grindstone. But when the angle is shallow this becomes a problem. Thus a platform set at a shallow angle does not allow the operator an opportunity to apply most of the force to the grindstone, but instead to the platform itself. On the other hand the SVD-110 only allows for steep grinding angles, so the operator can apply most of the force against the grindstone rather than the platform.

The flaw in this logic is that the platform can be used as a guide to keep the grinding angle correct, even at shallow angles, and one can still apply most of the force to the grindstone. In other words, the Tormek philosophy makes sense, it's just that I don't agree it's valid.
#60
Quote from: SHARPCO on February 03, 2018, 02:54:37 AM
For a Cleaver knife and a Castella knife, it should be higher and wider.

You can do cleavers with the platform, too. No need for a higher or wider US when you do it this way.