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Does the grinding stone wobble when it's spinning?  If so, you probably have a bent mainshaft.  That's the only thing I can think of that might cause the truing issue you describe.

As far as the bevel being wider on one side than the other, you have simply ground too much on one side of the knife than the other?

Have you watched the video clips of Jeff sharpening the knife?  (You can find them on this website, or just do a YouTube search).

BTW, how much did you pay for your used Tormek?

I've never used the T3, but the problem of not getting square chisels is not unique to the T3.

If your conclusion about the tolerances not keeping the tool rest precisely parallel to the surface of the grindstone is true, you can make sure they're parallel by using a anything as a gauge block.  Take, say, a scrap piece metal or wood and place it between the tool rest and the grindstone, and slide the tool rest down until it traps the gauge block between the grindstone and the tool rest.

Slide the block back and forth along the surface of the grindstone and check to see if it's really not parallel to the grindstone.  If there's enough slop in the the tool rest mounts you should be able to adjust the tool rest until it is parallel.  If there's not enough slop, and the grindstone is true, then you should be able to get a refund.

Insert a long 1/2" bolt through the hole and fasten with a pair of nuts.  Let the bolt prutrude slightly past the nut on the side with the bevel, so that it can rest on the universal tool support.  You should be able to rotate it so that you get the same angle bevel all the way around.

I don't know if this'll work, but I'd give it a try.

I don't know if galvanized steel would perform any better than powder coated steel.  My Supergrind 2000 is about 7 years old, and I too had to replace a rusted main shaft.  There are places where the steel casing has started to rust, and the coating has flaked off.

Installed the new main shaft today, and am happy to report a wobble-free grindstone.  Now, I should be ready to go another 7 years!  Longer, probably, because I won't have to worry about rust on the main shaft. 

The MSK-250 doesn't include the right-handed nut that secures the drive wheel!  Is this intentional?

Yesterday the new main shaft arrived (MSK-250).  You recommend Tri-Flo or Slick-50 One-Lube as a lubricant for the bearings?  I guess I shouldn't use regular axle grease, or lithium grease? 

I've been using my Tormek to sharpen mower blades for many years now.  The nice thing is that I can experiment with the bevel angle.  If the angle's too sharp, the edge folds over.  If the angle's too blunt, the blades of grass don't get sheared off cleanly.  The mark of a sharp mower blade is that the blades of grass are sliced off cleanly, with no ragged edges.  I guess that the quality of the steel has a lot to do with how sharp you can make the angle, and have it hold up without folding over.

Things with nice straight edges are ideal for sharpening with the Tormek.  Chisels and plane irons are the easiest to sharpen.  Scissors, too.  With a little practice, a person can learn to sharpen these like a pro.  In fact, when I buy a new chisel or mower blade, the first thing I do is sharpen it with my Tormek.  I can get a smoother sharper edge than the factory edge.
 
Hardcore woodworkers love them for sharpening the gouges they use with their lathes, and their carving tools, too.  These objects don't have nice straight edges, but Tormek provides jigs that solve that problem.

Paint scrapers are easy to touch up with the Tormek.  Having a nice square edge on the scraper makes the job so much easier. 

I've thought of opening a sharpening shop, but until now I didn't think it would be profitable.  There's a local service here, but you have to wait until Tuesdays for it to be picked up from the local hardware store, and then returned the following Tuesday.  I just dropped off a 50-tooth carbide-tipped saw blade to be sharpened, and picked up a price list. 

They're charging a lot more than I'd remembered.  $1 plus $1 per inch for just about every knife that I could sharpen with my Tormek.  Here's one exception that looks like it's got to be a typo: $10 plus $1 per inch for hunting knives!

Between $5 and $9.50 for scissors.

At these prices I just may change my mind.  I know I can beat the Tuesday-to-Tuesday turn-around time.

I bought my Tormek Supergrind 2000 back in 2002.  I've been using it all these years, and ignored the warning signs of wear: squealing bearings.  But the other day the main shaft would no longer spin unless I exerted a lot of torque by hand, so it was time to take it apart and see what's what.  The grindstone had worn from the original diameter of 250 mm to about 200 mm.  I broke it trying to free it from the main shaft. 

If I had it to do over I would have instead removed the drive wheel from the other end of the main shaft, and then driven the main shaft out still attached to the grindstone.  The main shaft was rusted around and into the bearing at the grindstone end of the main shaft, so I don't know if I could have done it this way without breaking the grindstone.  But it would have been worth a try.

So, anyway, after breaking the grindstone, I chipped away the rust from the main shaft, which was quite a job.  The grindstone had pretty much melded itself into the rust-encrusted mainshaft.  I had to chip rust away just to remove the bearing from the main shaft.  I managed to get it cleaned up and lubricated, installed a new grindstone, and I was back in business.  Except for one thing.  The new grindstone wobbles, and so does the honing wheel.

So, I've ordered a new main shaft (MSK-250 Upgrade kit) and I'm hoping that'll fix me up.

My question is this: What do you think caused all the rust?  And what can I do to prevent it from recurring?  One thing I used to do was leave the water in the tray after each use.  I think that leaving the water in the tray could cause the grindstone to wick the water in the tray up into the center of the grindstone, keeping the main shaft wet and causing it to rust.

I'm hoping that the new stainless steel main shaft, along with the practice of not leaving water in the tray, will help prevent this from recurring.  The other thing I plan to do is use a dust cover.

Is there anything else I can do to help keep the machine in good working order?