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I touched up my Henckel bread knife with a ceramic rod, which helped.  I tried gently honing the back edge, which also helped.  I still was not satisfied.

I ordered a sheet of 3M 15m PSA micro abrasive.  I cut a couple inch wide strips and fastened one on a 3/8" dowel.  It worked well with the scalloped knife.  I wore out two strips sharpening the knife.

Ken

This past Saturday I spent a day in Holmes County, Ohio.  One of my favorite haunts is Keim Lumber in Charm.  Keim caters to local contractors and small shops in the area, which has significant a Amish and Mennonite population.  (Among other things they sell air powered routers.)

In their dealer display I saw a T3 for the first time. I was impressed with the smaller model.  I certainly don't regret purchasing my T7.  I like the larger diameter grinding wheel, the heavier duty motor and the metal housing.

However, for someone needing a wet grinder with space and weight constraints on on a very tight budget, the T3 looked like a good choice.  It would provide the Tormek "burn free" wet grinding; the much more comfortable grinding for older hands; and the Tormek quality and versatility in a smaller, lighter and less expensive package for home use.

Without the constraints, I would certainly opt for the T7.  In a more constrained environment I would favor the T3 over other choices.

Ken

I am curious about what the letters in the jig and accessory designations.  The numbers seem to be the largest size the jig will handle (in millimeters) or the length of the platform (tool rest).  The letters seem to make more sense in English than Swedish.  This surprises me.  Is there a chart explaining what the letters signify?

Ken

I recently grumbled about the lack of good instructions with the EZYlock shaft.  The instructions provided with the DBS-22 are much better.  In fact, the DBS-22 seems like a class act start to finish.

Ken

In the Woodworking post ("a note to Steve", Jeff made this comment regarding changing the grinding wheel from the general wheel to the 4000 grit wheel:

"If the diameters are different (and they are) you will have to readjust the Universal Support height, but there's no reason to make any adjustments to the jig."

I have been investigating the possibility of using the TTS-100 for setting the height of the universal support bar when sharpening chisels and planes.  Its two point design automatically self corrects for wheel diameter differences.  When using just one wheel, this seemed overkill.  However, it might simplify switching back and forth between different grit (and diameter) wheels, and also with the honing wheel.

Here is how the procedure works"

1)  Using the TTS=100, set the universal support bar to the lower setting (the thirty degree setting).

2)  Set the length of the tool projection from the SE-76 to the correct angle, using either the Angle Master or black marker.  Note this length and make a gage block or cardboard marker.

3) After switching grinding wheels, set the new wheel with the TTS-100 just as you set the first wheel.  The two point alignment system should automatically realign the tool at the original projection length.

Ken

Steve,

Leonard Lee's Sharpening book has a very informative chapter on chisels, both Western and Japanese.

IMHO, it should be part of a sharpener's reference library.

Ken

My faithful old Henckel knives are very sharp.  Unfortunately I am talking about the backs of the knives.  They have sharp "ninety degree bevels".  I suspect they would make good (but very expensive) hookless scrapers.  Unfortunately, they are also uncomfortable on my hands.

I have thought about softening the edges with a mild radius, much like is often done to turning skews.

Do any of you have any experience with this situation?

Thanks.

Ken

I like Dan's idea of sharing useful items with the forum.  In that spirit, I will add a favorite, one which many of you might not be familiar with.

The product is called "mesh sleeving".  It is available from Reid Supply (reidsupply.com).  It is available in eight different diameters, each size being a different color.  it is sold by the foot and is quite reasonably priced.

I first encountered it being used to insulate bonding (grounding) material for telephone cable.  I found the scraps were very useful to protect things like router bits, threaded components and things with sharp edges like chisels.  The weaving allows ventilation, visibility and protection.  I also use it to protect my files.  It just slides on and protects my Nicholsons from the abrasive world whlle in toolboxes.

Three feet of each of the four smaller sizes should set one back less than ten bucks.

Reid is also a useful place for all sorts of jigmaking materials, knobs, wheels, drill bits, etc.

Ken

In recent posts there has been much interest in the Tormek 4000 grit wheel.  I would be curious to know how many of you who actually use one switch back and forth and how many use separate Tormek machines for the different wheels.

Ken

A discussion of O1 and A2 started in the Tormek portion of this forum.  Use of the word "and" rather than "or" in the title was intentional. I believe both have places for woodworkers.  The O1/A2 debate reminds me of the high speed steel/carbide debate for saw blades and router bits.  The carbide side wins hands down for longevity, but the high speed steel carries the day for keenness.

Lie-Nielsen makes bevel chisels in both O1 and A2, A2 being the "standard" chisel.  They grind their chisels to a 30 degree bevel, and suggests a 35 degree micro bevel.  These chisels seem designed to be struck with a mallet, as in dovetail making.

They also make longer interchangeable handles for the chisels to be used in paring functions.

Who says hand tools are "simple" tools?

Ken   

I just installed the EZYlock shaft upgrade on my T7.  It is very much a Tormek product.  It is well designed and nicely manufactured.  A real quality job. 

Installation took about ten minutes.  My T7 once again purrs like a kitten, and it certainly is a snap to change wheels.  I think I have it installed properly.  I'm really not sure.  Neither the kit nor the most recent edition of the handbook have either a diagram or description of changing the shaft.  The new shaft design seems to have entered the thought process at Tormek, but not the handbook or instruction process. 

Very nice product.  It deserves better instructions for those of us who have only average mechanical ability.

Ken

 

Last year I did some "coarse stone grinding" on some areas of my life.  I went essentially plant based (vegan) in my diet.  The occasional beer or wine became very occasional.  (No, I still don't exercise; there is room to grow.)

This new year, I will continue with the fine stone refining the edges.

Last year I added the new water trough and EZY lock shaft to keep current. As January looks both forward and backward, with Ionut's help, I am also purchasing one of the older square edge jigs for large mortise chisels.

I hope this will be a happy, prosperous, and productive new year for the forum members.

Ken

ps  A good New Year addition to your sharpening libraries is Ron Hock's excellent book.

I just purchased the scissors jig.  I have not seem scissors disassembled before sharpening with the Tormek.  Is this the standard practice?

Also, for scissors which are in need of minor sharpening, is it advisable to start with the course grade?

Thanks.

Ken

As a very full time grandfather of two pre-schoolers, my shop time is almost non-existant.  I am able to sneak in some computer time early in the morning.  I have been enjoying the training/demonstration videos that Jeff posted on his site and those in the turner's information kit.  Well done, Jeff.  It's easy to be a cheerleader for a fine product.  You went beyond that and provided some very solid, practical user information.  Thanks.

Ken

On page 90 of his sharpening book, Ron Hock states that he suggested a fix for flattening the backs of chisels and planes with the Tormek, and that it may already be available.  Would you please describe this.
Thanks.