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I've decided to invest in a sharpener for my shop and have narrowed it down to the Tormek or the Makita. I've heard rave reviews for both from those who use them, but besides price (the makita is cheaper) and bevel (Tormek radiused bevel, Makita flat bevel) are there any characteristics that really makes one system superior to the other? I don't mind spending the extra cash for the Tormek if it's a superior system, but saving money is always a good thing whenever possible. I also heard of folks who've bought one or the other and then changed their minds later. I know I only want to buy once.

I am, as always looking for sage advice. I'm about sandpapered out.

There used to be a sewing mill near here, and they employed several sharpeners for the scissors used in the plant. From what some of the employees have told me, the sharpeners used to sharpen the scissors by cutting medium to coarse-grit sandpaper. Supposedly this limited the blade wear from more aggressive sharpening methods, ensured an edge-long sharpening and prolonged scissor life . I don't know whether this works, but I plan on trying it. I currently use a ceramic scissors sharpener sold at Wal-Mart. It works moderately well (it gets the middle of the blade sharp, but the hinge-end and tips stay relatively dull).

Just thought I'd pitch this out to see if anyone had tried the sandpaper trick.

Scissors can go from simple to complex to just crazy.  Simple blades are the typical disposable ones and usually anything under $15.  It varies, but we get on average $7 to sharpen the average "dressmakers" shears.  Since we "service" technical shears (read that as high dollar beautician/stylist/barber shears/thinners etc), we charge as high as $20 on a 3 to 4 month basis.  That 3 or 4 months of cutting is approximately equivalent to a lifetime for household instruments.  So how long does a sharpening last.  It depends on what you are cutting, and the quality of the manufacture of both the shear AND the material the shear is made of.  Some shears are so technical, they vary the angle of the edge from the tip to the throat about 10 or more degrees.  But even dressmaker shears can be "technical". Some makers will use a different angle on each of the blades.  Some "technical" brands and models will succumb to the yo ho who sets his TAS (Twice as Sharp) to 45 degrees for EVERYTHING.  Most shears will cut that way, well maybe not as designed, but they will cut, kinda, maybe.

So, firstly, do not use a bench grinder running at 3450 rpm to ruin a good pair of shears.  I try never to use any vertical wheel grinder for shears, not even the Tormek, because even with the best sharpening job, they put a hollow grind on the blade.  The hollow grind doesn't last as long, but then again if you have a Tormek and the jig, you can always sharpen when needed. Secondly, you need a jig system to do a good job, there just isn't any way way to hold the exact angle necessary without years, maybe decades of experience (I've seen Japanese team members at the factory do it, I drink too much coffee for that routine).

On quality shears, the relationship of the ride and the line (or the whole blade if not inside hollow ground) must be established or often re-established.  It is not that this area is unimportant on inexpensive shears, its just that nobody seems to care except good sharpeners who are going to charge more than the shears cost to "service" them.  Also, you can't service them if you can't take them apart completely and subsequently put them back together again (not a reflection on someone trying to sharpen them, more a denigration of the company that is too cheap to use screws).

Of course the final element is testing.  First on rabbit fur (no, we're not having poor helpless bunnies skinned just to test scissors for sewing and clippers, they are a by-product of the rabbit meat market, that we get from France), next we cut a double of Viva paper towels, in all cases they must cut all the way to the tip cleanly and not grab, especially at the tips.  Next comes the Kleenex, then a single ply of kleenex, then we wet a single ply and all of these must pass.  Then we try human hair extensions which must cut without pushing.  Kind of the final failure point.

A TAS or a Tormek will do the job, you just might have to sharpen more.  Good steel and good manufacture will go a long way to making a fairly long lasting shear for home use.  However, for something a seamstress or seamster or tailor will use every day repeatedly, 6 months to a year is more the norm.  For a cutter (I don't know if those folks still use hand shears anymore), I would imagine that 3 to 4 months would be about normal, maybe less.

I love those big shears the cutters use, don't see much of them anymore.

I spent 10 years sharpening and knifemaking, and just do it now to keep busy (retired).  Ask any questions about the business, I like the technical side.

a number of years ago I bought a Delta Sharpening Center



some what the same Idea as the work sharp,
I had a few bench grinders, but for the wood working tools I have found this a nice tool to have, I have sharpened planer knives, jointer knives, chainsaws, chisels and other on it, and reserve it for sharpening only, the white wheel is to fine for heavy removal of stock,

I would want a bench grinder as well, possibly if it was just the wood shop the sharpening center would do and a 4" grinder for the occasional other things one would get into,

but I have a few 6 bench grinders for various wheels, and I have a buffing station for "honing" I use a polishing compound on the buffing wheel and after bringing things to a sharp point one can put a razor edge on them with the buffer,

I have a grinder with the normal coarse and fine wheels and wire brush etc,

for planer or jointer knives I think you need some thing like the work sharp or the delta sharpening center and some type of guide system for accuracy

I heard that one of the methods sharpening scissors and to whet them with foil
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqjFIwU_LUQ

The problem with sharpening ceramic knives is that ceramic blades are very brittle. Ceramic has a hardness of 9.5 (as opposed to steel with a hardness of 6.5). If you apply too much pressure to the side of the blade, it could easily snap. Also, the only material hard enough to sharpen ceramic is diamond, with a hardness of 10.
What about just buying a new knife, jeez... they are inexpensive compared to "real" knives, e.g. Henckles..I know we live in a "throw-a-way" world, but the sharpness level on my ceramics is insurmountable compared to everything