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All,

Curious what options (if any) and/or recommendations for being able to sharpen milling bits.  Was handed a carbide milling bit - 12.68 mm - that has some damage (it was making it's way to the garbage).  Curious to see if there is a means to sharpen.

Attached is a picture - while this may be a candidate for the circular file, was thinking it's a opportunity to work with another material and type of bit.

Thanks!

RE: noticed same issue as DrSpin (existing thread from March 2017).  There seems to be a lot of "play" between the plate and moving 'top' of the jig.

Not sure if the "play" is 'at play' with an issue.  Attempting to sharpen a 1/2" x ~24 inch bit that is 90 degree - designed for wood.  The issue I've encountered is that following the videos and reading, no matter what I do - the primary facet gets removed when attempting to generate the secondary facets.  For clarity, here are my base steps:

Using SB-250 grindstone (also tried with the SG-250, but it was taking what seemed to be an excessively long period of time).
1) Use TT-50, true stone
2) Set bar distance via Tormek angle tool "hole"
3) Set jig angle to grindstone via angle tool (9 degrees)
4) Set bit depth via jig depth gauge
5) Adjust bit so that primary facet is parallel to bit holder center line (or slightly greater than center line - ie: worn bit guidance per manual)
6) Adjust primary facet stop depth so that bit touches grindstone, adding 1/8 - 1/4 turn to ensure that surface is "flush"
7) Grind both sides (results look good this far)
Make sure that Secondary facet stop is against Primary facet stop

-- Tried the following repeating the above steps, so that cycle is complete:
9) Adjust 1.5 turns.  Results: primary facet(s) appear to be removed (ground off)
9) Adjust 4.5 turns.  Results: primary facet(s) appear to be removed (ground off)

Haven't seen anything where someone has posted about running into this issue.  Hoping that someone with more experience with the DBS-22 may be able to point me in the right direction.  Another peculiar point is that the angle is evidently "extreme enough" that you cannot traverse the entire grindstone as the drill bit holder portion of the jig will intersect the grind stone at about 75% of the distance - moving from left to right.  It's this last point that gives me pause.  Given how everything else has created the ability to fully traverse a stone (left to right and back) - the fact that this angle cannot traverse the stone has left me wondering if there's "something else" that may be missing from the equation.

For reference, had no issue with other drill bits (1/2" and slightly smaller), but the angles where 118, 135, etc.  The only difference (in this case) is the 90 degree angle.  The bit in question is meant for drilling through wood only and it has a hole roughly mid-way through the fluted section of the shaft to use as a "pull" for lead line (wire installation/s).

In the end, if replacing a drill bit is part of the initial learning process - that's OK.  Just need to understand what/why this doesn't appear to be working as documented - to learn corrected process.

One other question, has anyone attempted to sharpen drill bits with "quick" connect/disconnect fittings?  Bits of this nature with sufficient length to span the bit holder, sharpen without issue.  Smaller diameters (shorter shaft) where the (integrated) connector ends up in the bit holder and the drill bit holder doesn't have solid contact with the bit "itself" - doesn't seem to work out too well.  Thoughts?  (Suspect that these simply cannot be sharpened, but thought it worth posing the question).

6 facet looks quite tantalizing, but until one has mastered 4 facet... (hopefully by then a "6 facet" jig will be available and a jig for spade bits)

Thanks!