Messages

Hi Steve,

Thats great news (your alive AND have a working email).

I just sent an enquiry.

Have a great day!

Has Steve passed away?

Reason for asking is that emailing goes unanswered.

I like the idea for the slot for sliding in a nut, it save having to worry about a bolt stripping the thread made in plastic.

However, im not so sure that measuring through the centre of the USB is accurate method, or how turning the ruler system 90 degrees would be accurate with that 90 degree turn.

If i could have the best of both worlds it would be the t-cube with the slot for the nut.

I have a question about using the T-cube...

In this photo the T-Cube seems to be under/behind the USB (on the same side as the person when looking at the main wheen on the left side of the Tormek) when measuring to the wheel.
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=6136

Is this the method for measuring when using the Angle Calculator software?

Or should the T-cube be placed on top of the USB (on the jig side as would be used when sharpening)?

The reason i ask is that the measurements are different from other calculators.

For example, a jig length of 128, and angle of 10 degrees, in the Angle Calculator i get 62.64.
You cannot view this attachment.

But in another calculator the measurement is 61.43.
You cannot view this attachment.

With the T-Cube, the real projection line is offset of the ideal projection line by 1mm up, which is comprised by the thickness of the ruler blade.

The measurement on the top of the ruler is at the same distance as on the bottom of the ruler, so when the USB is raised to the point that the ruler can freely pass, the measurement does not actually have a 1mm offset.

Another way to think about it: imagine you could make the measurement and flip the ruler over, is it not the same distance?

I wonder if anyone knows where Wootz got those temperature lacquers he used in his heat testing?

They are the Red Orange Grey and Yellow, Temperature Indicating Liquid Paint from "mscdirect"

Nice work, thank you!

However, i do have a question...

How would a 3D printed screw (included in the files) compare to an off-the-shelf screw/bolt?

Have you tested it's strength to hold position?
And, have you tried to find an off-the-shelf screw/bolt and tested that against the 3D printed one?