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Pavel,


What I've collected on axes is at https://sharpeninghandbook.info/GT-Axe.html.  There is a reference there to a manual on axes from the U.S. Forest Service.  It may be useful.


Kind regards,
Rich

Hi, Rich, and sorry for the up! Thank you for sharing, but сan I clarify if this angle rule works for splitting axes or mauls? I got Fiskars(exactly this lightweighted) and it seems that the time for sharpening is coming. I'm afraid that smth gonna go wrong 
Cheers

Hi, I am new to the forum and the Tormek T-8. 

I am a hobbyist woodworker and have been sharpening my chisels and plane irons by hand.  I am starting to get some minor arthritis in my hands that is making it hard to keep a good and even working motion on the stones.  This is the reason I decided to try the Tormek system.  So far I am extremely impressed with the results.  I haven't tried any plane irons yet but my set of chisels are in better shape then they have been in a year or so.

Now that I am happy with how the Tormek is working for me, my long term thinking is that once I have all my tools back in good shape I was going to purchase the Japanese Waterstone and put that on the Tormek as my primary way of touching up my tools as needed.   Keeping the stock wheel on standby for when I get something that is nicked up and need moree attention. Is there any flaws in my thinking?  Are there things I am unaware of that make this a bad idea.   

Thanks for your help.
~Chet

Got arthritis also. Take care, pal! And don't do it with your hands. Never. Anymore, just trust me. Glad, that you know what to do
Best wishes.

Hi there and welcome to the forum.

The geometry of elliptically ground gouges is moderately complex.  But it boils down to the fact you need to know that 3 adjustments affect the geometry and by that I mean the bevel angle and the degree to which the wings are swept back. 
They are:


- the distance the tool is protruding from the jig (P)
- the distance between the pivot point and the grinding media (hole A or B with Tormek's quick set jig) which is the distance the USB is from the grinding media
- the angle at which the bevel is presented ie the angle between the tool axis and the grinding medium axis. (knuckle setting in the elliptical grinding jig).  That's what the manual refers to as JS 2 or 3 or 4 etc

If the chart shows the same angle for any of these variables, then one or both of the other 2 variables must have been altered.

To add to that is also an operator component ie the time spent focusing grinding on different parts of the bevel.  This is classically demonstrated by spending too much time on the nose (goes flat and dips) or not enough (gets pointy and is very frisky during turning).  Or too much wing grinding can wear them out at the backs and not enough means they dont sweep right round and have no cutting edge at the back.  But the angles are managed by adjustment of those 3 variables.  That also holds true for every other jig based grinding system in the market.  one has control of these 3 factors.  Tormek just happens to do it very well because of the precision engineering and good design.

Sorry for up and thank you for that. It was really hard to choose the right one's gouges and for sure it's Art how to sharp them right!

I use a the SVM-45 knife jig to sharpen my mower blade on the Tormek. If I need to remove a lot of steel I'll go back and forth between a dry grinder and the Tormek. It helps keep the blade cool.

I've been doing it this way for many years now. Sharp blades do a much better job of caring for the lawn.

Sorry for reviving. Since many years I understand that sharpen cheaper than buying new blades. And of course, it depends on the brand. What is your preferencies here?