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https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Sharpening-Supplies-Left-Handed-Sharpening-Stones-W453.aspx?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=24I-APR
 

All STL-files for 3D-printing
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This is how I placed the parts in Cura for best printing results
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If you want to work with an angle cube to set grinding angles, this little simple tool "zeroing plate" might be helpful.
No mathematical formulas or programs are needed, nor measurement of usb height.

I think this topic has been up in the forum before but I don't think I've seen this method.
As a result of working with the "Black edition" protractor, some ideas emerged that have resulted in, for example, this small tool.
It's almost the same principle as the Knife Angle Setter, three points on the wheel, but instead of a graduated scale I use a Digital Angle Cube.
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It consists of four parts that are easy to 3-d print if you have access to a 3d printer, of course.
And one of them is of course my favorite The T-Cube.

The simple zeroing plate works well directly with the SE-77 and with the T-cube the knife jigs also work well, such as KJ-45 and KJ-140.
Of course, you have to do the procedure a few times as I described in the pdf file because the zero position moves when you adjust the usb support,
but it goes very quickly and is a very simple procedure. I feel that you quite quickly find a good way to work with setting the right angle.

I've included a description with images, text and links to parts in the attached PDF file for anyone who might want to try making one of their own.
It is free to download and 3d-print and use as you wish.
Use the Zip file further down the thread

Right now this is my favorite method for setting angles quickly when sharpening knives. And I am completely satisfied with the accuracy and think it is good enough for my requirements.
Hope someone finds it interesting and wants to try it. You are welcome to return with comments if you 3d-print your own copy and test it. Or if you have other views or ideas on the topic.


Don't forget to give a "plåster" to your customers in case they need to feel how sharp the knife became after your work.

I usually deliver a "Plåster" to all my new customers along with freshly sharpened knives etc. as a fun thing.

I can confirm, as Ken says, that I have been in contact with Tormek and presented my tool and my thoughts on how to implement some of my theories into their own tuning tool. It is a work in progress and my understanding is that there may be a release in the near future.
I think Tormek's variant, with some improvements, could be a better option than my tool and I never had any intention of starting any series production of my tool anyway. Call myself a hobby inventor! And am happy when I have succeeded with an idea, that's enough for me!
As for my "Black Edition", I have no production of it and have no plans to produce any more, right now! Instead I have a new small project going on.  We'll see if I can show it off later.

Maybe  this can help you as a start or a guide lineYou cannot view this attachment.

I can really recommend this chainsaw tool.

https://www.stihl.com/STIHL-power-tools-A-great-range/Chains-bars-and-accessories/Tools-for-cutting-attachment-maintenance/21750-63674/2-in-1-file-holder.aspx

And it can be done with Tormek's new jig too. Use to set a preset projection length.
It simplifies and speeds up the process when you want the same angle on several knives in a row during sharpening. It is interesting that the jig can be used in several different ways, once you have learned the function and handling it is surprisingly quick to work with. And no computers, calipers or tables needed!

The way I understand Perra's jig, it could also be used to adjust the projection distance for a given angle, right ?

You set the first knife's projection distance, adjust wheel size, then USB height to match the angle, then use the jig as a stop to set the projection distance ?

Hi
Correct👍😊

[very]

The Projection Distance rarely changes in sharpening to any significance.  The only time it does is if you're grinding out damage, or you incorrectly sharpen a very dull knife, by grinding one side until a burr is formed, (creating a noticeable offset), then flipping the blade over.  (You can of course alter the PD in other ways, for example over-grinding at a higher angle.) 

Hi cb
Just wait until you see some of the knives I get to work with... you might change your mind.       

Some thoughts after a while.
If you want to achieve a certain edge angle, you have to take into account that as soon as you start sharpening, all the basic values change because you remove material from the knife, therefore the angle will not be the one you think you set from the beginning.  Regardless of the method you use for the setup.
How many of you usually take into account that the projection length changes while grinding?
If I am going to fix a worn knife, I can easily reduce the height of the knife by 1mm, this gives an angle error of approx. 0.6 degrees. I sometimes redo the setting with a new projection length before I fine tune the last few times to get the angle I want. Or I set an angle of 17 degrees on a worn knife when I want a finished result of 18 degrees when I'm done.
I have found that it is very quick to check and set new values with a tool like my "Knife Angle Setter" or perhaps Tormek's new jig.  Just set a new projection length by, copy the knife+jig, to the setter and adjust the Usb height to the angle value you want. It takes no more than a couple of seconds! And it feels more hands on and that I have more control over the process than compare to other methods. The Setter becomes a more active part of the grinding process than my computer ever gone be. Sorry ThinkPad!
I have received feedback on my tool from several friends who have received a copy and so far the feedback I have received is very positive. Great fun! And that should be positive for Tormek's new jig as well, because our tools work on the same principles. Almost!
/Perra

I do not have the same thoughts about the need for an adjustable projection length in the jig. After using my new Angel setter tool for a while now, I find it an advantage to only have one parameter to work with, Usb height, The projection length is a fixed part of the setting tool's function, after I apply the correct projection length to the tool, and the diameter of the wheels is automatically adjusted, which makes it possible to quickly adjust the usb height to the value I want "Without any knife involved during the adjustment" There the KJ-45 works very well with a fixed end support, at least for me!

I think there will be several new ways of thinking and other ways of working with quite soon. With today's possibilities with relatively cheap 3D Cad, printers and CNC machines, it is possible to quickly try out new ideas and produce prototypes in a relatively simple way. It's not just an opportunity for expensive enterprise development departments anymore. Which gives us "ordinary" users new opportunities to influence and forces manufacturers to make more effort to be at the forefront

It is also very practical when or if you want to use extra accessories such as lighting, laser lines, etc. I always have an Led lamp on a brace that sits in my FVB and illuminates the grinding point. Age requires good lighting, not Tormek's age, of course. One way I adopted is that I use support with CW-220 and freehand with LA-220 due to the slightly more aggressive compound disc CW. Grind with diamond, first honing CW and end with LA.

I have made a test model with a spring loaded wheel adjustment but that means I have to hold the tool down against the wheel while setting the usb height and it was too difficult to do all this without variations. So I use a locking screw on the wheel setting instead to avoid measurement errors. It also works well and easily. It only takes a few seconds to change the wheel size and I don't have to guess the diameter because that function is built into the tool.

Dear fellow Tormekers,

I just want to share my attempt of adding DROs to the machine. It's still kind of beta-testing - but so far I'm very happy with the results.

Hi micha

I like your solution- Maybe we can work together. Your solution together with my Angle setter. And an electric stepper motor that automatically sets the USB height according to the selected angle. Then we can make an app for the phone that controls everything.