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Well I continued to tap the chisel and it developed some cracks. I hope they will come out when I sharpen it. You can see the cracks if you increase the size of the picture.

I tried the tapping chisel procedure on the end grain of a 4 x 4. Surprisingly very simple and effective.  I hit it fairly hard with a ball peen hammer using both sides and it did not damage the chisel but flattened the end.  One chisel is still giving me troubles because the entire chisel is concave. It must be an old chisel that came in a box of purchased item at an auction. I will still work on it and let you know.

I have a general question about some chisels I bought years ago when I was in Taiwan. All of these chisels have a short flat back and then the back is concave, seriously concave. After sharpening some of them many times I am sharpening into the concave part so the chisel does not have a flat back. Anyone have any experience with this problem?

Someone mentioned they wanted an old style chisel jig.
There is one on eBay, item number " 264494770658".

Ken,
I wanted to let you know about a video I came across about sharpening scissors. I found it very informative.

The video is about 13 minutes long but the interesting part about scissors not meeting at the tip is at 2 minutes. 
The rest of the video is interesting because she demonstrates her sharpening machine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqX0eBXxe6U

Thought you might be interested.

David

David,

The DE-250 is an excellent choice for the final sharpening stages. Do not add pressure if it seems slow cutting; diamond wheels are designed to cut with low pressure.

You may eventually wish to supplement your 1200 grit wheel with a coarser grit for initial sharpening. I like the DC-250 360 grit wheel for initial work.

Enjoy your new wheel!

Keep posting.

Ken

Ken,

I installed the 1200 grit diamond wheel today and tried it out on a chisel and a cheap pair of scissors. It worked very well but slower than I expected. I guess I will have to replace the the broken wheel with the same kind.  I have an older one but it is probably 7 to 8 inches in diameter.
The wheel I glued together is holding up well and sharpens well on the half not affected by the chip that is missing. I guess I will have to go searching for the missing piece. I could almost buy a used machine for the cost of a new wheel.
The bottom line is I just can not afford to buy another grinding wheel so I will use the old one I have since it is not completely worn out.
Thank you for all your advice and comments. I enjoy reading them.
David

Ken, you are correct, I must take all the blame for the rusting of the shaft because as you stated I did not remove the water from the machine after use.

To Ega:
I broke the old wheel trying to take it off a rusted shaft. I had spent days trying on and off to remove the wheel from the shaft I finally found a steel wheel with a hole the same diameter of the larger part of the shaft. Now that I had full support on the back side of the wheel I hit it with a hammer as I had been doing but I guess I should have waited to use a press. I broke in three pieces and I only found the two big ones.

I did successfully glue the wheel back together and it runs well except for the piece that I couldn't find to put back in.  I graded the wheel and it stayed together.  I was wondering if i could mix up some of the dry material that comes off with the grading with some glue and patch the wheel. I used some of the gorilla glue that expands into the pores of the material.  I know I could never use the wheel for finish grinding but it might be usable for rough grinding.
Ken, I have read your advice on diamond wheels and have used some on an old Makita grinding wheel.  I bought 8" diamond disks and attached them to the top of the grinding wheel using a wooden bushing I made for the center of the grinding wheel and I use a hanging bucket of water to provide a steady stream of water.  But I find the Tormek a much better system.

Yeah, I bit the big one and ordered a 1200 grit diamond wheel along with the MB-100.

My grinding wheel just broke into two pieces.
Can it be glued together?
Even gluing it there is a chunk missing that cuts the useable grinding width to half of the wheel.
Is there any way to fix this?