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What a brilliant idea. Well thought out :-)

Does the Lansky clamp give approximately the same total lenght from the USB to the stone as the Tormek clamp?

Sorry for your loss.

I was thinking - maybe you can glue it. Fill out all the cracks good with a syringe loaded with a glue capable of gluing this type of stone - or another means, maybe using airpressure, to get it deep into all the cracks - tie a rope tight around it to press it all together - and hope for the best :-).

I am not sure which type of glue - just not harder when its dry than the stone itself. Maybe some 2k epoxy.

Then true it and give it a try...

Joergen

Just for fun...I tried another method today with a Kyocera knife.

First the SB-stone (it can be hard not to get marks on the edge - if the knife tilts occasionally so it grinds on the corner of the stone- then marks appear almost instantly - so be careful).

After that I went to the 4000 grit SJ-stone. And it actually went quite good also - and faster than a handworked weatstone.

I could at least cut paper with it afterwards - not the absolut smoothest feeling, but quite okay.

Joergen

Thank you for all the answers. I am less confused now :-)

So for chisels and other "straight" stuff with a bevel only on one side - there I can trust the Anglemaster WM-200.

But for all double-sided bevels on knifes etc - there the calculator seems to be a much better solution to use.

Joergen

I am a little confused....hope to get an explanation from the wise men here.

https://cockloftsoftware.weebly.com/online-calculator.html

When I use this calculator (link over here) for my T8 and a chefs knife,  I put in the
Wheelsize 251,5
Projection 147,5
Angle         15

and I get
USB to casing 176,42
USB to stone    85,84.

Actually no problems in that - I adjust as good as possible and grind the knife....
but when I then try to measure the angle with the WM-200 and let it fit along the stone and upper straight side of the knife - then I get a measure of 18 degrees.

Does it have something to do with that the knife is thicker at the spine than at the bevel so it tapers a little from "top" to bottom (sharp side)?

So should I just go for the calculator and forget about the WM-200...or...?

All answers will be appreciated 

Joergen

@Rick
Looking forward to hear how it will work for you :-)

if anyone has any suggestions (other than telling him to come back when I know more, which I am likely to do at this point), I would greatly appreciate it. 

Thanks,

Rick

Hi Rick

Without owning any of the diamond-stones - I have this method.

And remember  - if you are too violent on the edge of a ceramic knive, then the small crystals it is built up by, will jump off from the edge instead of being sharpened - and then expose a new crystal with some sharp corners.

It is also the reason a ceramic knife stays sharp longer than metalknives...actually the edge just breaks off and expose some new crystals in a not very beautiful edge.

And it is also hard to cut with a ceramic by just pushing down. It has to be sawing forward/backward to cut good because of that way it performs.

So back to my method:
First use the SB-stone - made as slick as possible - and with low pressure on the stone -  to make an acceptable edge - removing visible dents etcetera, and try to follow the same angle as it had before. When it is as good as it can be - then go to a fine wet whetstone - I use a pretty hard 16000 grit shapton glass-stone. It is so fine that it can actually grind the side of the crystals on the edge, instead of just making the crystals bounce away as they would do with a grittier stone.

The result will be worth to brag about - but will take a little extra time.

And never try to use a sharpening rod/ceramic rod to maintain the edge on a ceramic - it will just make a lot of the crystals disappear.

Joergen

Loved it too :-)

I found de video, isn´t public video.

The video can be very useful for everyone, and it is very practical
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6FHhMHJ46E

Enjoy it

Hi Fernando

Thanks for the link. Its pure Origami :-). I enjoyed it - and I hadn´t thought that out myself - so thanks again.

And it is a really nice wooden holster you have there 

Joergen

I currently live in an economically depressed area in VERY rural NE Oregon where the dominant industry is cattle ranching and service industries that server it.  The town I live in has 300 people in it and there is not a single traffic light.  Anyone who doesn't own or work full time on ranch, or who isn't retired (like me), or is otherwise financially independent works two or three part-time jobs without benefits just to make ends meet.  I have to drive an hour to get to a town with 10,000 people in it.  I like all this, but can only afford to live here because I am retired. 

P.S.  A couple photos of my area. 

Hi Rick

What a beautiful place to live - and the meat is just waiting for a sharp knife in the backyard 

I understand why you prefer this instead of a big town - but I see that even there you can´t be without the Coca Cola signs.

I myself visited Portland-Oregon with Greyhound bus from the airport 30 years ago, glanced over all the big cars and over how many who went to church, and also came a little around to see the mountains - it was a nice holiday as I remember it.

Joergen

I just wondered - if you sharpen knives etc. for customers - how do you pack and transport the knives after the sharpening?
Do you just wrap them in some tissues and rubberbands :-) or do you invest in some special cardboardboxes or bladeprotectors or something alike that?

@RichColvin
I had not seen the Rick Krug´s adapter until now. It is basically the same idea as mine, but needs a lot more work to prepare the adapter I think. It must also feel a little more clumsy in the hands since you have all the rings which bear it on the shaft. My idea would be more slick since its only a thinner rod going directly through the rig without all the holding-on-it-stuff. And then you could wrap something around the end of the rig to avoid be irritated by the grooves in the end of the handle.

@Hunter
I have not made it in the real yet - so no photos or drawings.
But since the thickness of the handle itself is around 12 mm or 15/32", then I think the metalrod going through should be no more than 4 mm or 5/32" to not weaken the shaft itself too much and a total length of 5 cm/ 2" should be suitable. So if you can imagine a 2" metalrod going through the shaft of the rig up/down and nothing else so you else have the "clean" shaft to hold to - then you have it. It should be an easy fix - just a drill and some metalworking glue or epoxy to hold it in place. Did you understand my explanation now?

First, the drawbacks of a cut down collar: you need to focus a little more on a) keeping the knife flat to the stone when working on the straight edge of the blade and b) keeping the jig on the USB without slipping off
Second, the perk: the pivot point becomes practically stationary, as opposed to moving drastically, as shown in the second row of the pic cbwx posted above

Hi everybody. I am new in this forum, and this is my very first post. I hope you understand me even as I am not a native english speaker since I am a Danish viking.

But I have read all this about making the collar rig smaller to get a better tilting movement with great enjoyment, and can see a lot of improvements in the ideas from Kavik and cbwx34.

But maybe it can be done even better.

I have an - maybe great - idea to make it even more precisely.

Instead of using the collar at all - what if you drill a hole through the svm-45 upside/down through the handle of the jig itself just behind the zero-center-mark on it. And then you put a piece of a round steelrod or alike through the hole and glue it there so it is protruding equally up and down from the drilled hole. Then you can hold the upper part of the steelrod between your thumb and indexfinger when grinding so it stays on the USB because the lower part of the rod is against the USB itself, and since it is longer than an almost grinded away collar then it wont slip easy. And when you tilt it, it will tilt around the exact center of the jig not moving downward at all, but giving the 100% optimal curve.

Of course you will lose the possibility to adjust the length by using the collar - but on the other hand you also get rid of the feeling of the collar turning on the jig which I find annoying - but it can be height adjusted with the USB up or down instead. And not so hard steering on the straight parts of the blade as else....but what does this intelligent forum think regarding this idea?