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Hi Jeff,

I am only  sharpening the flat across the teeth, not the inside surfaces. The problem was that the shear handles were hitting the sliding rest, not allowing the full length of the blade to be sharpened. I tried to disassemble the Weiss shears but did not have the proper tool to get them apart. The Fiskar ones have the same problem.

Jeff, I figured out how to do it. I was using the horizontal bar mount and switched to the vertical bar which allowed me to sharpen w/o any problems. Sorry for being dense.

Bill

I have been attempting to use the SV150 scissor jig to sharpen some pinking shears my wife has w/o success. The first pair were Weiss brand and I was able to use the jig and sliding rest to sharpen only one of the blades. The other would not mount such that the jig would successfully slide. The second pair were of the Fiskar type and neither blade would successfully slide for sharpening. I finally sharpened them on a diamond slow speed grinding wheel by free hand methods - not the ultimate way. I have the older 2000 tormek which has been rebuilt. Is there a way to sharpen these on the Tormek? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bill Pottorf

Completed rebuild of the Tormek Supergrind 2000.  Completely stripped the frame of equipment and used Loctite rust remover to get rid of all of the rust and used power wire brush to clean off the bare metal.  Recoated after sanding with 4 coats of Rustoleum primer followed by 4 coats of green Rustoleum enamel paint.  Had already gotten new stainless arbor with washers and nuts for the stone.  

Now for the stone.  My old stone was the old style of 2" wide and no recess on the outboard side where the nut and washer hold the stone in place on the arbor.  Also the old stone had a different style of nylon bushing which had ribs contacting the stone.  This went back in the stone with no problem.  However, the new arbor was too short to get thread contact other than on about 2 - 3 threads with the nut.  So, thanks for selling me a new stone which I had to use.  I have boxed up the old 9" stone for keeping.  May come up with a way to use it down the road.  Never know.  

Everything is reassembled and I just finished sharpening a turning skew to see how it worked.  It really works nice now.  Very happy with the rebuild.  Thanks again for your support

Regards,
Bill Pottorf

Thanks for answering Jeff.  I will definitely try that after some more rust removal fluids.  I did try Loctite Naval Jelly on the back washer twice to get as much of the rust off as possible.  I then wire brushed the arbor and back washer which look more like metal than rust now.  Also, clamped the arbor in my lathe with long nose jaws and drilled a centered start hole in the arbor for the tailstock cone to support the stone weight.  I then locked the lathe spindle rotation and reused the pipe wrench to try and loosen the washer to no avail.  The stone and arbor are back on the vise right now with more wd40 and t9 solvents.  

Hope that I can get the stone off soon.  I really need the sharpener and need to get back to work.  Thanks for your response.  I will let you know what happens.  The very last resort will be to buy a new stone which I do not want to do.

Bill

Jeff, I am presently rebuilding and refinishing my Supergrind 2000.  I have a new arbor and bushings.  I have everything off of the frame for refinishing due to rusting here in Houston.  The paint is flaking off and needs to be removed and refinished.  I did manage to get the outside grinding wheel washer off using a pipe wrench and hammer to loosen it.  However, the rear washer is firmly rusted to the arbor as well as the wheel.  I have the arbor with grinding wheel (9" diameter) out of the frame and resting in a large vise.  I have flooded the rear washer with wd40 and t9 solvent several times.  Tried to drive the arbor out using a leather mallet to no avail.  Have thought about trying to drill the arbor out - seems that would be a last resort.  Do you know a method to get the wheel off of the old arbor?  Thanks.