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I did install the 4000g stone last night. First off it was a little hard to put on. Has a soft metal center. Once on I did notice the wobble you mentioned. Not much more than the regular stone which came with the Tormek but still noticeable. The drive rod may have a little bend to it? Anyway, I ran the TT-50 across the stone and it did as you said - put a sharpness on a blade to the nth degree. I may just keep it.
Thanks

Paul

Alright, thanks Jeff.

Greetings Jeff F.

I purchased my Tormek 2000 Supergrind in 2004. At the time a salesman suggested I also get the extra stone wheel. Not knowing any better I bought it and just recently pulled it out of storage. It is a 10" 4000 grit. Labeled with King Stone for Tormek. My question is - Is this a stone worthy of putting on my Tormek? I was considering using it for chisels, plane knives and such. What is your opinion on this stone? Be blunt I would rather dump it than hang onto something not worthwhile. My 1000g stone is going strong and at 230mm so there is plenty of life left I believe. Following is information on the sticker if it provides any insight. Is this the same item as listed under the Grindstone section? It is Tan colored.

Named 'Sun Tiger' and made in Osaka, Japan Matsunaga Stone Co.
Abrasive KD
Grain 4000
Grade 7
Structure 10
Bond V
figures 1A

Paul Stroik

After putting it off for 2 years I finally purchased the TT-50U and it arrived today. I put it to work right a way and what a difference it made. Much easier to use and more controllable and in my case much better results.

Jeff, here are a couple of questions for you. After sharpening should there be a shiny (mirror like) finish on the blade (ex. skew) or is it supposed to be dull looking? 2nd question - this past week while sharpening my skew chisel with the stone dressed to 220g I noticed deeper gouges (striations) occurring. It took awhile with the 1000g to get the striations out. Did I put to much pressure on the stone when dressing to 220g? This occurred before I got the tt-50u and cleaned up the stone a bit, properly I guess. Also, how long should it take to redress the stone from 220g to 1000g?

Paul

Phil, Short snippets can be found under accessories. if you're looking for longer videos check out youtube.com. Key words of 'Tormek, sharpening' will provide several videos.

Well Jeff, I think I found the problem. I removed all the wheels down to the drive tire and ran the unit and then added each succeeding component (honing wheel, extended shaft, then the burr removing wheels) each time watching the wheel to begin wobbling. The extended shaft (which I installed for the turning tools) was apparently to tight and this is where it began its wobbling. Loosening the extended shaft has almost completely eliminated the out of balance (wobble) issue. Sometimes to tight is not so good. All seems to be better now - Thank you.

Hi Jeff, A question on my drive wheel - under the honing wheel! It is out of balance and this is accentuated on the honing wheel. Shaft is straight and true. I laid the drive tire on a flat surface and it is noticeable and definitely the plastic drive wheel. Does not appear to be affecting the honing aspect. Somehow the plastic wheel warped!? Maybe about an 1/8 inch out of true.

Cause for concern?? Anyway to make it true - flatten it out? Ton of weight lying around - might do the trick.

Other than that everything is working fine yet with the Supergrind 2000. Great machine.

Did the light oil when I first got the Tormek. But now the honing wheel just seems so stiff that I thought of replenishing with mineral oil would soften it up a bit.

Thanks Jeff

Jeff - would it be okay to use mineral oil on the honing wheel instead of light machine oil? Manual states to use machine light machine oil but I've got mineral oil and it seems this should work to soften up the honing wheel. Maintenance, I must admit, which is long overdue for the honing wheel.

Paul

I have been using the (peaks) as my mark. However, good question and I also await Jeff's reply on this.

Paul

Jeff...Would the technique of sharpening a captive ring tool be the same as sharpening a skew? I am referring to the one-piece solid HSS tools not the replaceable tip style.

BTW...The TNT 708 Woodturners kit is great. Took very little time to get the hang of sharpening my turning tools with the Tormek 2000. My mentor (who sharpens free hand) commended me on my sharp tools and even suggested that I might leave my tools behind for him. Great investment for Turning tools.

Paul S.

Your are right. I did mean the TNT708. I realized that after posting. I did order the TNT-708 kit.

Tried your link - same place I was before after registering. Same message came up as follows:

"The page could not be found."

"It may have been moved or renamed. If you got this message using a bookmark please go the start page and update your bookmarks."


Thanks again.

Thanks for the rapid reply Jeff. It was also my email you responded to earlier today.

With the info you provided and research on the Tormek site I can now make an informed decision. I will be purchasing the TNT-300 kit. The only duplication is the machine cover - no biggie.

As for the manual. I followed your advice but still get the message. I'll check back on that later. The manual in the 300 kit may very well answer all my questions anyway.

Thanks again.

ps-Now I recall seeing your name at the SMC site.

Actually several questions:

Does the TTS-100 replace the WM-200? I am going to purchase Turning jigs and am wondering if the WM-200 I got with my 2000 Supergrind will do what the TTS-100 does.

Another question - What is the difference between the TT-50 and my ADV-50D? Do I need to upgrade?

Last question - How can I download the latest manual? Message I get is "page could not be found".

Thank you.