Messages

David,
This was raised by me some time ago, see http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=876.msg1938#msg1938
Cheers

Thanks for pointing me to the prior thread. 

On the other hand, if you want to do it, go for it.  Just be aware of the fact that it could eat the diamond tip of the truing tool.

Herman,

Thanks for the response.  I was aware of the "try-it-for-myself-and-see-what-happens" option.  But, as Ken suggests, that way risks destroying my TT-50.  That's why I was hoping that someone who actually knows if it would work would chime in.  Never fear, if I feel adventurous enough to risk my $79.95 jig, I'll be sure to post the results.  I think, however, I'll be more likely to lie down until the adventurous feeling passes.

Ken,

Thank you for your helpful reply.  I have a similar diamond dresser (http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Sharpening___Grinders___Wheels___Diamond_Wheel_Dresser___diamond_dresser?Args=) that I've used with my old high-speed dry grinder for years.  When I go out to the shop tomorrow, I'll use it to get the face of my new grinder's wheels square-ish with the Universal Support.

I still question if there is a reason why someone wouldn't or shouldn't use the TT-50 - Diamond Truing Tool for this purpose?  It would seem to do a more accurate job than would my old diamond dresser.  That way, after I've shaped my new turning tools on the dry grinder there will be less work to do on my Tormek as I bring that newly shaped edge to fully Tormek sharp.

Over a year ago, I purchased the BGM-100 - Bench Grinder Mount for use with a
new slow-speed 8" bench grinder I had also purchased. Saturday, I finally got around to setting up my bench grinder with the BGM-100.

My questions: Can I use the TT-50 - Diamond Truing Tool to get the dry grinder's wheel parallel with the
Universal Support? If not, how would you recommend truing up the wheels? The instruction book only mentions using a small subset of Tormek's jigs with the
BGM-100 (basically, the jigs used with turning tools). Are there any jigs that CANNOT be used with the BGM-100?

[Oh, and FYI]

Again, Jeff, thanks for the prompt reply.  I appreciate your help.

Yes, the body of the tool is round.  Mine has a diameter of about 3/8".  It looks like a large nail, except the point has 3 flats rather than the 4 a nail would have.  

I hadn't thought of using the SVS-50, but I just tried mounting the tool in the jig and it should work.  The difficulty will be, in addition to setting the proper bevel angle by adjusting the universal support, you have to mount the tool in the jig so that one face is parallel with the stone.  Then, after sharpening that one face, you have to rotate the tool 120 degrees -- without changing the protrusion out of the jig -- to sharpen the next face.  Repeat one more time and you're done.

The other alternative is to use the SVD-110 to set the bevel angle and to sharpen the tool freehand.  Of course, if I was confident in my ability to consistently sharpen at the same angle, I wouldn't own all these jigs!

Oh, and FYI, I've asked Craft Supplies if they can sell me the new TNT-300 video and handbook and the Hand Tool accessory pack.  These items are not listed in their catalog, so they may not be able to sell them to me.  (I sent my email late Friday afternoon and have not heard back, yet.)  Is their another source you'd recommend?

Any recommendations on how to sharpen a "pyramid point tool" on the Tormek?

Here's a link to an example from CSUSA's website:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Turning_Tools___Bowl_and_Spindle_Tools___Henry_Taylor___Henry_Taylor_Pyramid_Point_Tool___htt_pyramid?Args=

Well, my first two skews are done!  Using the corner of the stone grader sure does rough up the stone (good thing). Does some portion of the stone grader break off and embed itself in the wheel?  It sure left some wide and deep scratches in my high speed steel skew.

What really sped up the process, however, was shortening the exposure (P measurement).  I was using the 65mm exposure recommended in the TTS-100 manual (the one that has since been replaced).  That P value leaves a much longer bevel than I am used to.  Then, I double checked the sheet that came with the system from Craft Supplies USA.  They recommended a P value of 55mm, which results in a shorter bevel and much less grinding.

Jeff,

Thank you for the prompt reply.  I have been using the vertical sharpening position (I switched after about 3 hours).  You're right, it does go faster.  I'll try using the corner of the stone grader.  

Where may I obtain the TNT-300 DVD and manual for sharpening turning tools?  I saw on Tormek's website that there was a new DVD and manual, but I couldn't find the DVD or manual for sale at CSUSA, Rockler, or the other website's linked to by Tormek.

When you talk with Tormek, tell them I'd be willing to purchase an 80 grit wheel for use in shaping my turning tools!  Right now, I'm very glad I don't have any of the new tools that are made with the new, more abrasive resistant steels!

I bought my Tormek at last year's Desert Woodturning Roundup and I'm just getting around to using it for the first time.  (It's been very busy at my real job.)  Anyway, I'm trying to use the TTS-100 (and the rest of the Tormek jigs) to set up my skews and gouges.  Since my old free-hand "system" produced a different shape, I've got to reshape each of my tools -- which is taking foerever.  For example, it's taken over five hours of consistent effort to almost grind my 1" skew to it's new shape.  (It had a radius profile at about a 15 degree skew angle with about a 25 degree blade angle.  The new shape is straight across, 20 degree skew and whatever blade angle the TTS-100 sets for skews.)  I estimate it will take another hour of effort to get the last 1/4" of the long point done.  (The skew has a straight profile from the short point to within 1/4" of the long point.  I've got to grind the straight portion back another 1/8", or so, to get the straight profile across the skews entire width.)  For a change of pace, I spent the last half hour working on my 1/2" skew.  Since this skew is already straight across, and smaller, it should go quicker.  Still, it looks like it will be a multi-hour process.

What can I do to speed up this process?  I've been alternating from one side of the skew to the other every five minutes, moving the skew to a new part of the wheel every minute, and re-grading the wheel every 20 minutes.  I've been pressing the blade hard against the wheel.

I'm ready to go buy a slow-speed grinder and rig someway to use the TTS-100 and the rest of the Tormek system with the grinder.  Else, at two hours a night, I'll be reshaping bowl gouges this time next year!