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Yes you are right. I did get a new shaft with the upgrade. (I found the old rusty shaft).

I still have a SB wheel stuck solid onto the shaft. I can order a new shaft so I can switch to other wheels.

I'd rather find a way to remove the EZYLock. I've used heavy pipe wrenches to budge the nut but no luck. I don't want to chew up the shaft with the wrenches.  I am considering grinding a couple of flat spot on the shaft - somewhere - just so I can grab the shaft with a crescent wrench.

I'm having a similar problem to the previous post - my EZYlock is frozen onto the shaft.

I have a T-2000 and "upgraded" to the EZYlock when it was announced - it was just a replacement nut upgrade.

It's frozen to the shaft now. I have three stones, and when I tried to swap stones - I was unable to free the EZYlock. There is visible rust in the threads. I have tried everything I can think of to remove the EZYlock - including putting on a 12-inch pipe wrench and whacking the wrench handle with a hammer. I removed the entire shaft from the machine - and my black carbide stone is still stuck onto the shaft.

I think the problem is that the T-2000 did not have a stainless steel shaft, and my "upgrade" kept the same shaft. I don't think I had the option of a stainless steel shaft at the time.It was probably 8-10 years ago when I got the EZYlock washer/nut.

The only think I can think of is to buy a new shaft, and when I want to switch from the black stone - I have to replace the entire shaft to change to the standard or Japanese stone.

I don't know if I can hammer the shaft to knock it through my black carbide wheel. I suspect the shaft diameter is reduced around the wheel and it would crack the wheel.

[right]

The BGM-100 was never intended for use with the SE-76. The purpose behind the BGM-100 is the shaping of turning tools, not bench tools.

Okay. I was able to use the SE-76 on the right hand side. I'm just passing the lesson along.

I finally got my twin BGM-100 attachments installed on a old Woodcraft slow-speed grinder. I took some time to make sure things were aligned. I also was able to keep my Wolverine guides on the same grinder.

Some notes:

I have to grind away some metal on the lower wheel guards so I could use the Wolverine levers in both directions.
The wooden blocks for the BGM-100 prevented the handles from being tightened in the direction towards the blocks. So I removed seom metal from the lower side, and now I tighten the Wolverine handles towards the middle of the grinder, instead of away.


The first thing I used my new setup was to prepare a new 2 1/4 inch plane blade on the grinder/Tormek.
First problem is that I cannot use the setup on the left side of the grinder with the SE-76. The wooden block is too far away from the wheel. I would need to move the wooden block closer to the wheel. I'll have to experiment.

I was able to use the SE-76 on the right hand wheel. However, I had to remove the plane blade, and put it in so the sharp end comes out the opposite way than when it's on the Tormek. Otherwise, I cannot get it to reach the wheel.

So after I grind it on the right hand grinder, I have to remove the blade, reverse it, re-align it, and then set it up on the Tormek.


Now if I could get a horizontal arm that had a longer bar, I could use the Square End Jig on the left side.

I have a 8000 grit replacement grindstone (from Woodcraft).
How do I remove the grindstone from the arbor so I can replace it?

When I try to loosen the nut, the entire arbor turns. If I hold onto the honing wheel, the honing wheel comes loose.


I removed the entire assembly, and I wasn't sure how to proceed. I can put a Vice Grip on the arbor and clamp really tightly, and try to loosen the nut, but I am concerned that I will chew up the smooth arbor.


I tried WD-40 on the nut to help, but it didn't.

Any suggestions?