New member here. Adrian. I'm a chef in our small fine dining restaurant. Lifelong knife enthusiast: Japanese single bevel sourced direct from maker's workshops in Japan (all Carbon), several more western J knives - double bevel. mostly VG10 variants (eg Misono etc) and my much older German knives, mostly Gustav Emil Ern but a few others as well. Sharpening hitherto has been Naniwa stones up to about 20,000 grit, splash and go, impregnated leather strops.
Bought T1 which arrived yesterday. Disappointing. I started off with a Japanese SS knife that was pretty blunt and I wanted to profile to about 12 degrees each side. I must have spent an hour on this and despite using marker and lens, I can't seem to get a burr. It seems very close but a burr does not form very well, and then if I use the honing wheel the knife is dulled. It comes back a bit if I hand strop.
T1 is MUCH slower than I expected. Is this normal?
Second question. I'm right handed and my best knives, especially several Yanagibas etc, are single bevel carbon - no bevel (maybe a micr bevel) on the left face. The T1 requires me to go in from the back to rin these through and grinds a tad unevenly. It is easy to catch the horn on the wheel. Any brilliant ideas?
I only really got the T1 to deal with the German knives and maybe a bit of angle change here and there. The premium knives rarely see anything other than an 8000 Naniwa and the strop and they are razor sharp.
It's a bit awkward with butchery boning knives as well - hard to get to the very end closest to the handle without the grind looking a bit rough.
Final question - is there a method for doing Chinese cleavers.
Many thanks. Adrian
Bought T1 which arrived yesterday. Disappointing. I started off with a Japanese SS knife that was pretty blunt and I wanted to profile to about 12 degrees each side. I must have spent an hour on this and despite using marker and lens, I can't seem to get a burr. It seems very close but a burr does not form very well, and then if I use the honing wheel the knife is dulled. It comes back a bit if I hand strop.
T1 is MUCH slower than I expected. Is this normal?
Second question. I'm right handed and my best knives, especially several Yanagibas etc, are single bevel carbon - no bevel (maybe a micr bevel) on the left face. The T1 requires me to go in from the back to rin these through and grinds a tad unevenly. It is easy to catch the horn on the wheel. Any brilliant ideas?
I only really got the T1 to deal with the German knives and maybe a bit of angle change here and there. The premium knives rarely see anything other than an 8000 Naniwa and the strop and they are razor sharp.
It's a bit awkward with butchery boning knives as well - hard to get to the very end closest to the handle without the grind looking a bit rough.
Final question - is there a method for doing Chinese cleavers.
Many thanks. Adrian