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Hello, back again!  Thanks for the replies, observations and suggestions, much appreciated.

Good news and bad news, but hopefully a good outcome...

The bad news is I broke the stone.  Well, I don't know if I actually broke it or if it was already under so much stress from the corroded mounting on the shaft. Either way the stone came into two very clean halves.  Long story short, it's glued back together with some very high strength epoxy and trued up again. Perhaps I can offer an explanation why the newer stainless shafts from Tormek have a LH thread at the stone end.  The coefficient of friction between a 316 male thread on the shaft and a 316 nut is very low and even when tightened quite tightly it will unscrew with very little torque.  I have added a second nylock nut to the stack together with some very robust taper edge washers and some nice incompressible but deformable gasket material which sits under the taper edge washers to take up irregularities in the surface the stone, which is what I believe caused the stone to fracture with the expansion of the steel shaft assy. It was VERY tight both radially and axially.

I have reassembled the grinder and it works well, I am currently repairing an old oak Captains Chair and need to sharpen my wood lathe turning tools. So I needed to get the Tormek working.

I will examine the Tormek attachments and see if I can improvise/make the ones I need. Obviously the angle of sharpening is very important, 'off hand' grinding won't work here.  Although the angles are specific for particular blades, I think probably a consistent grind is as, if not more important than the exact angle.  I am well used to making tools and attachments for specific tasks, I have been doing that most of my life. Currently making a threading attachment to generate threads on my milling machine.

As for the honing wheel, it oscillates badly, will try to address that asap but for now it's just usable.  It appears to still have the leather belt and a face disk on the wheel, someone has badly gouged a ½" wide track in the outboard edge of the periphery of the leather, the remaining leather is a bit uneven but somehow the wheel needs truing to the axle axis, will look at that when I have a minute.

I have put some SolvolAutosol (pumice paste) on the leather and that produces a good clean, bright finish to the edge. I guess I need to get some proper honing paste.  Is there anything I should use to re-condition the leather of the wheel, bearing in mind it has probably never been used properly...

As for searching the shed, once all the gear has gone, they are going to demolish the shed and return the area to garden lawn and flowers, I will bide my time and help with the final clear out and demolition, it's possible there may be other attachment but I doubt it, we have looked in most corners and crevices already! LOL

I have tried to post a pic but the file is too large, will make some low res JPEGs to post when I get a minute...

Kind regards, Robert

Thank you for the kind welcome and helpful replies gentlemen.

The threads which retain both of the wheels on the shaft are definitely Right Hand, 12mm X 1.75mm pitch, a standard ISO 12mm nut screws on easily, I have just run a good 12mm X 1.75mm die on the threads at the stone wheel end AND the honing wheel end, which suggests to me that this is a home made (or improvised) shaft. The shaft is exactly 16mm diameter steel. Bear in mind, I am only 5 miles from the home of the British nuclear submarine shipyard, It's quite likely a new shaft could have been 'knocked up' during a tea break in 'The Yard', it's not unknown...

I need to clean off the various parts so I can see more clearly what I have. Given the age of this machine I will remove the motor and check the wiring, it has a white power lead which does not seem to me to be authentic.  What colour would the original power lead have been?

Have just had a quick look at the honing wheel, it appears to be plastic with steel mounting plate to fit the main shaft, a rubber tyre and some sort of skin on the flat side, very difficult to tell what it is but seems like the side layer COULD be leather stuck to the plastic wheel. Will clean and examine more carefully later today.  The material on the rim seems to be rubber with some slight radial cracks close to the inside edge of the 'tyre' the outer part of the 'tyre' seems free of cracks but is quite uneven across it's width, it had a worn line around one side about 14mm (9/16") wide.

I will drill out the shaft from the stone wheel later and see what the situation is with the remaining hole in the stone wheel, I am not expecting a good outcome, the crush effect of expanding rust has probably damaged the stone so I expect to have to sleeve the hole then bore the sleeve accurately to retain concentricity.

The stone wheel is 233mm in diameter and 48mm wide or thick.

I shall explore the method of uploading photographs and try to show you some features of the machine.

Enough chatting, things to do!

Regards, Robert

Hello, new here, am an old guy with a shed (and a digger, also a roller, lathe and mill, etc...)

I live on the South side of the Duddon estuary in Cumbria, England.

I recently asked by one of my neighbours to go through her shed and sort out her late husband's tools because she felt it was time. He passed six years ago.

I was somewhat surprised to come across a Tormek 2000 grinder which seemed to work but looked a bit neglected.

My neighbour agreed I could have the grinder and today I found time to examine it. The stone seemed somewhat eccentric and the honing wheel only seems to be rubber? Is the honing part a leather belt around the rubber wheel?

I removed the shaft and mounted it in my lathe, the runout is (was) about 120thou on the radius. I clamped a segment of a diamond grinding disk to the tool post and removed most of the runout taking 10thou at a time, The wheel feels quite nice now but I stopped short of taking a final cut because the wheel is rusted badly onto the shaft. The nut was badly rusted and was very tight to remove, there was a robust washer behind the nut which I managed to remove but I am reluctant to dig any further without asking advice about best removal technique.  I have some perfect stainless shaft which machines beautifully to make a new shaft, that is not a problem, but I don't want to wreck the stone.

What I want to know is, is there a steel sleeve at the centre of the wheel, which mounts on the shaft, or is the stone in direct contact with the shaft?, It's very rusty and I'm concerned the expanding rust may have cracked or crushed the wheel. My inclination is to drill the shaft out, which is easy enough, but I am paused while I ask you guys what you would do in this situation?

If the mounting hole IS damaged and the wheel is very slack on the shaft I am wondering about diamond drilling the centre out to say 1" and epoxy gluing a short bronze sleeve into the hole, then re-dressing the wheel true, (on a new shaft) which is why having proved my dressing technique, I stopped short, because it might need doing again.

Thoughts and comments please!

Regards, Robert