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I'm glad that worked well for you. My understanding is that once you do get it down to bare metal it will immediately start to form a light rust on the bare surfaces. Normally one would apply oil to prevent that, but of course you wouldn't want to do that to a surface you're going to paint. I don't know if you should just let it rust, rub with #0000 steel wool, and then immediately apply a primer designed to bond with the rust.

After removing the rust, I sanded the Tormek with abrasive fleece and then rubbed it with acetone. So far, no new rust has formed. The painter wanted to blast it with glass beads before powder coating. So actually, I could have saved myself the trouble of removing the rust and paint.

By the way, andicugino, can you tell me what you're using for a power supply? I see it in the photograph of you performing the electrolysis. I'm interested in a good quality battery charger. I'm afraid the tiny one I have is damaging the batteries I'm charging.
 

I couldn't use my really cheap battery charger because it has a short circuit detection feature. I think any inexpensive laboratory power supply will do.

Mine is a unique handmade piece. I built the power supply almost 35 years ago during my first year of vocational training. In the vocational school we etched, drilled, and soldered the circuit boards ourselves. We also sawed, drilled, and filed the housing. We even screen-printed the front panel.

Andi

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I just wanted to give a quick update: I removed the old paint with paint stripper. The housing was more rusted than initially apparent. The rust removal with electrolysis worked very well. I now decided to give the housing away for powder coating.

If all goes well, I'll be able to use the Tormek again next week.

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Hello Herman,

I was able to remove the old paint (it might have been powder coating) with paint stripper. I watched some YouTube videos about rust removal with electrolysis. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

Unfortunately, my main shaft is also unusable. I also ordered an MSK-250.

I actually wanted to paint the SG2000 green again. Seeing your Tormek, I think mine will be black, too.

Andi

Initially, I wanted to add grooves along the sleeve and around to allow space for the glue. But then I decided to try it without gluing. Therefore, I didn't file the grooves lengthwise. I could do that later if necessary. But I don't think this will be necessary, nor do I think the sleeve will slip. The rotation isn't transferred to the stone via the sleeve. The sleeve recoils 1 mm on each side so that the stone can be clamped between the washer and ezy-lock-nut.

However, I haven't been able to use and true the stone yet. The practical proof is missing. I'm still waiting for the MSK-250, which is delayed by a few days. I also removed the powder coating from the Tormek yesterday. Next, the rust needs to be removed and then new paint applied. So that will take some time until the Tormek can be put back into operation.

Andi

I also wrote to Tormek customer service at the same time. I've now received a response from them: "Motor is mounted on a 9mm shaft. This shaft has splines and are just tapped into the housing. To remove the motor, you just need to tap on the shaft from the stone side and drive it out line a nail."

The shaft was easily removed with a pin punch. Sometimes you're a bit stuck in your head. I could have figured that out myself. Now everything is disassembled.

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Hello Rick,

POM (Polyoxymethylene) is a plastic that, like PA6 (Perlon/Nylon), can easily be turned with hand tools on a wood lathe.

Both, POM and PA6, are available inexpensively as rods, for example, on eBay. I paid 1.70 Euro for a 200mm long POM rod (plus shipping, which was more expensive than the material itself).

I drilled a 12mm hole on the wood lathe and adjusted the thickness with a scraper until the sleeve fitted snugly. That only took a few minutes.

If you have the opportunity, you can of course print a sleeve as described above (cross-hatched). Then "UHU Quickset" would be a good adhesive to use, according to Bolton Adhesives customer service.

Andi

I decided not to glue in the new sleeve. I used POM and made the sleeve press-fit:

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The shaft on my Tormek was stuck to the stone. After removing shaft and wheel, I noticed that the machine was more heavily rusted than initially thought.

Now I would like to repaint my Tormek after removing rust and old paint. But I did not really figure out how the motor mount was attached to the housing. Can you give me some advice on how the motor mount was installed and how to remove it?

Andi

leather wheel side:
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water stone side:
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Unfortunately, I don't have the option of 3D printing. I've often thought about getting a 3D printer. Then I'd have to deal with CAD, which has stopped me from doing so.

I could order a POM rod from eBay for a small amount of money. I could drill with sufficient precision on the wood lathe. After glueing I would dress the stone with the TT-50 in hope that the concentricity would then be restored. As for the adhesive, I'm not sure what to use best for POM and water stone.

Andi

The grinding wheel on my Tormek was rusted onto the shaft. Therefore I removed the shaft from the driving wheel side. Then I tried to remove the stone from the shaft by slightly hitting it with a mallet.

I was able to remove the wheel from the shaft without breaking it. But my joy was short-lived, unfortunately the plastic sleeve remained on the shaft. I don't think there is any chance of removing the sleeve from the shaft without breaking it.

I would like to use the stone again as it still has a diameter of about 235mm. My idea is now to drill a 12mm hole in a 22m POM rod and glue it into the stone. Could this work? What glue should I use?

Does anyone have a better idea?

Andi