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There are there are Tormek knock off's that sell jigs very similar to the SVM-45.  They do get the job done.  I have some from a Wen.  Very similar...

I have a set of Shun Classic's.  VG-Max is the steel.  Hard and brittle.  The late great Vadim did a video on sharpening Shuns.  That may be of some benefit to you.

On a positive note, once mine have been properly apexed I rarely have to sharpen them again.  Stropping will bring them back to sub 100 scores on the BESS for a long, long time.  Probably have to grind mine less than once a year and then it's using a high grit for any imperfections.
As for sharpening I would stay with something that would do do well with that steel...I use CBN but I imagine diamond would do just fine.

After reading everyone's replies I don't think I see any benefit from a rock hard felt wheel at this point. 

As of late I have tweaked my stropping process with very good results.  After grinding and measuring with painful accuracy I hone on the Tormek wheel at +.4 with PA-70.(accuracy in measuring is critical) After 3 light passes I switch to a Tormek honing wheel with 1um diamond paste (Tech Diamond Tools). A couple EXTREMELY light passes should net some great Bess numbers.
This is in reference to good steels.  Sub 100 scores should be fairly consistent with this process.  (At 15 degrees).

After a discussion on the latest video from Tormek (yet to see) I have been rethinking my answer. In it they state that no honing is required after the SJ since it leaves little to no burr. If your last few strokes on the SJ are very light then that will pretty much eliminate the burr. Also, in theory if you lightly redress the wheel before the final light passes, with, say a diamond plate, then the grit will be sharper and thus be fresher this will also reduce the burr.

Also (again I think too much sometimes) Bazz from Findon Sharpening does strop from the SJ but he hand strops on a leather strop with a quality green compound and that does give him a slightly better edge than straight off the SJ.

Even though the Tormek honing compound is only marginally coarser than the SJ it does seem like you are going backwards. I would have thought that very light strokes on the SJ would give you a better result.

IMHO no burr would be acceptable.  I believe it would crush and dull the apex as would any burr.  I would use a fine grain diamond paste to finish.  I use a Tormek honing wheel with 1m diamond emulsion. The lighter the touch the the better results I achieve.

Nico,
That very thing happens to me now and again.  Tormek Purest's may cringe at this, but sometimes I find tip to heel will help keep from developing that divet by the heel.  I could be wrong, but I'm thinking that divet occurs from the direction you grind. As you start to move the blade across the stone, the area to the right of the left edge of the stone gets progressively less grinding time resulting in the extreme right side of the heel seeing the stone much less. laying the knife on the stone also may add to the issue. I'm pretty sure Wootz's covered this issue in one of his videos.
If this is incorrect perhaps someone else could chime in.

hammering the pivot rivets

English is not my first language. What do you mean by that. Can you explain what you do?

If you pick up a pair of scissors and each side wiggles independently from the other the screw needs tightened.  Many lower priced scissors use a rivet instead of a screw.  If you take a rivet set or maybe a nail punch, set it on the rivet (with the bottom head of the rivet on something unmovable like a vice) and really smack it with a hammer.  If you have hit it hard enough, with a little bit of luck, it will make the loose blades tight again.
When I sharpen scissors I use a marker and grind them at the existing angle.  I don't usually do anything to the wheel so it's probably about 400 to 600 grit or more.  I rarely strop scissors, but if I do I'm careful to strop the side flat.  This usually results in scissors like new.
If you do all of the above and they're still not working like new, throw them in the trash and buy some new ones.  Honestly, I don't like sharpening scissors but it is easy and the results are good.

I have been using a 3 to 6 micron diamond paste and haven't been able to match Vadim's numbers when honing on a paper wheel.  On the Wusthof I just sharpened he says to make 2 passes at +2 to remove the burr using a paper wheel. it was taking 6 to 10 passes to remove the burr.  So I just ordered new 3 to 6 micron paste from Tech Diamond... not only did I achieve the results I was attempting to sharpen the knife to, the paste put a mirror edge on when using it the paper wheel! Good product.
Problem solved.

I have only peeked down the rabbit hole of honing and use an extra leather wheel with 1µ diamonds followed by a hanging strop. I believe the key to increased sharpness is using progressively lighter pressure as you move along each step. With my final diamond hone I exert not much more than the knife's weight. Since I do not have a means of accurately testing this theory other's opinions are welcome.

As of late I have been able to match Vadim's efforts on one steel (Wusthof classic 55).  I was able to achieve this edge consistently, by following similar procedures.  So to start with, you don't need to follow his procedures exactly to achieve his results.  I will say, to achieve these results I did indeed use extremely light pressure on the hone, only the pressure of the knife.
I was able to get the knife to 60 with the Tormek paste, It didn't drop to 55 until after I honed it on 1 micron diamonds... ever so lightly.
I could post my procedure but the key take away is that this edge was achieved using a slightly different technique.  As John had mentioned, a light touch is critical, let the abrasive finish for you.

I am currently grinding with the SG-250 or CBN wheels.  I would like the ability to put a mirrored edge on some knives (Shuns, Global..etc).  What is the most efficient way to go about that?  Would the 1200 diamond or 4000 water stone work better or something else all together?
Thanks,
Al

The original question was do you use the honing wheel between sharpening.  I do not as I use controlled angle sharpening and honing.  To use the wheel I would need to know the angle I originally sharpened the knife at.  For this reason I use a 1x30 leather belt with a compound to strop between sharpening.  It does bring it back to the original sharpness it was sharpened to in most knives.
I test throughout the sharpening and stropping process with a BESS.  If I sharpened something to 100 stropping/honing brings the knife right back to 100 if you don't wait too long between stroppings.  Once the edge becomes damaged/rolled it's time to regrind.
I use the Tormek paste for initial honing.

I know this thread is very old.... So am I...
Anyway, in regards to CBN wheels... They do have a place in my shop.  They do a great job on supersteels and not having to re-measure everything in between wheel changes is wonderful.  I find I'm always concerned I'm using too much pressure, time will tell. 
As far as every day use, the SG-250 gets the nod.  The reason being it is more "forgiving", ease of changing grits and the satin like finish.  If you look at the scratch pattern from the CBN vs SG under a microscope there is a pretty big difference.  The CBN scratches are deeper and aggressive.  The SG wheel has a much softer appearance.
In my humble opinion, CBN wheels can be a valuable addition to any setup where supersteels are sharpened or you're sharpening several of the same blade. 
I would love to add an SJ to the lineup..... someday.

Since my last post I'm happy to say I've managed to match a BESS score in the late Vadim's book. 
I started down this rabbit hole after I bought his book a few years ago.  I finally took a Wusthof and followed Vadim's steps as closely as I could with some slight modifications and am able to duplicate consistently 55 on the BESS (at 12 degrees). I also changed to Tech Diamonds paste.
A couple things came to light on this journey.  First, it's expensive to attempt to duplicate these processes.  Second is as you have already found out, the slightest variation on angle, pressure or speed across the stone or honing wheel can undo all your progress.  Make sure if you are using paper wheels to true them first!  Make sure your pastes or compounds are doing what you expect them to do.  Finally, when getting close to finishing the process I used zero pressure on the honing wheel letting the knife weight keep contact with the wheel.  Also, take extremely detailed notes so you're able to duplicate your efforts.
The disappointing part of this is after the first use that level of sharpness is gone.
So the journey was fun and I'll continue to sharpen my knives stupid sharp.  I learned a ton.  It can be done...

I use a 1x30 belt sander for that type of knife.  I have a Fiskars and a Victornox with that type of handle.

Rick,
To start with, thank you for taking the time to compile those numbers.
How do use the rubber bands?
The process I am using is as follows:
I grind most kitchen knives at 15 degrees on the SG-250 unless supersteels. I grate the stone with diamonds plates as necessary and typically finish at what I precieve to be 1000.  I hone on the Tormek honing with FVB with Tormek paste at the exact angle.  (I plan on testing + something).  After 2 passes on the honing wheel I go to a 10" slotted paper wheel with 6 micron pollycrystaline diamonds at +.4 to +2.  Still attempting to figure this out as each steel reacts differently or I'm not consistent in my efforts.  I am using FVB's on the paper wheel setup.  I then go back to the Tormek wheel at the exact angle and using no pressure (knife weight only) make one or two passes.  This usually nets me around 110 most of the time.
I have tried honing with a 1×30 leather strop at a low speed with Tormek paste at the exact angle and on quality steels I usually get 100 or as low as 70.  I have tried 6 micron, 3 micron, 1 and .25 diamond strops but rarely get as good of score as the Tormek paste.
I said all that to ask if the Rock Hard felt wheels would improve my scores but after reading everyone's results I don't think it will.

It seems there are many of us that can achieve 100 with many different ways.  Interestingly no one that has posted on here has stated they can duplicate Vadim's results. 
I have hit 50 a couple times and 70 isn't terribly uncommon but once I get to 110 success seems to become consistent.
I'll keep trying.

Joe,

The experience I have with Chromium Oxide is ... similar to yours. I used the technique prescribed by Wootz  in one of his videos, and let it sit a full week before using it. I still got that glassy finish when using it for the first time.

I can't say whether or not it hones anything but I'd concur with you : There are no traces of steel indicating that it does anything, and BESS scores are unimpressive to say the least. It's probably mostly due to poor technique on my side, but I've never gotten anything useful out of that wheel, unlike with other leather wheels coated with diamond spray. So I'll sand it clean whenever I need a new honing wheel.

I have been mixing chromium oxide with mineral oil (and .25 diamond paste).  That has been working for me.  When looking through a microscope you can see the difference in the edge from the courser diamonds on the first wheel.