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Saw this on FB. These guys have a 25% closing down sale on and they have a bunch 'o Tormek stuff

https://canadianpreparedness.com/collections/sharpening?fbclid=IwRlRTSANnl7NleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHugBxRsukMmknH2f8nL0GIm_Flogt5_FaHBTtDl7rXeJekvmA0By-uiIfCV8_aem_AKMEUwIUh3aoYGJFW2IPpw

I managed to source a 50 anniversary Tormek T8 from them about two years ago. What a great fine brand new.
Yeah, sad to see them go

Wow, surprising no input. I too have been noticing that while having to Ask older Jigs or even the new one so I'm giving off a resistance as it's gliding across I'm wondered maybe adding a little bit of oil I've been trying to get good post thanks

I found this video on a YouTuber I follow and found it really interesting. I think I will invest in one.

https://youtu.be/wBGcfj6-J7Q?si=9domZyoAHvqYgvQr

Paul, who runs that channel is amazing a fast array of information for Sharpening.
I bought the same one. He recommended and also added a separate monitor. That's larger.

Hello everyone,

let me introduce AngleJig, another way how to set your Tormek for grinding. 

Basic idea is simple -  the angle formed by the tangents between the wheel and the universal support can be used for settings USB's heights. Angle t (tau) can be measured directly with suitable angle meter or indirectly with an inclinometer. Fixed jigs (e.g. plywood triangles) can be used with an angle ruler for direct setting too, it is similar as KenJig, but probably not so fast.

According to the performed tests the accuracy of setting is high, the large distance between the measuring points is very helpful. Setting with inclinometer is very easy, quick and universal for me and requires steel bar (magnetic) with stop pin only.

All calculations will be included in the new version of TormekCalc2, the functionality is ready, I'm still considering the look of the user interface...

For more information see pictures.


jvh


Bosch GAM 220 MF accuracy ±0,1°
Inclinometer INSIZE 2170-1 accuracy ±0,1° at 0° and 90°, other values ±0,2°

[/quote

Hello everyone,

let me introduce AngleJig, another way how to set your Tormek for grinding. 

Basic idea is simple -  the angle formed by the tangents between the wheel and the universal support can be used for settings USB's heights. Angle t (tau) can be measured directly with suitable angle meter or indirectly with an inclinometer. Fixed jigs (e.g. plywood triangles) can be used with an angle ruler for direct setting too, it is similar as KenJig, but probably not so fast.

According to the performed tests the accuracy of setting is high, the large distance between the measuring points is very helpful. Setting with inclinometer is very easy, quick and universal for me and requires steel bar (magnetic) with stop pin only.

All calculations will be included in the new version of TormekCalc2, the functionality is ready, I'm still considering the look of the user interface...

For more information see pictures.


jvh


Bosch GAM 220 MF accuracy ±0,1°
Inclinometer INSIZE 2170-1 accuracy ±0,1° at 0° and 90°, other values ±0,2°

Thank you for posting.

I know this is an older post, but hopefully you see this, sir.

I am new and still learning a quick way for angle guys instead of using a Calculator an app.

Can the Bosch digital ruler simply be used once by laying it over the USB and onto the 250 wheel find ones desired Sharpening angle while using the t8?

For the risk of sounding ignorant, I've tried to double check the angle while having the knife in one of Tom Ask Jigs zeroing out a digital angle cube placing it on the blade and if I'm not mistaken, it gave me a reading of high 20s or 30s. But when I set the knife while in the jig on Tormek's 123 angle finder the readings of the angle differ.
What am I missing?
I guess I'd rather not use an app calculator, or a made up reference jig,my hope is, in the ideal world can we use an incline metre or a digital queue, simply place it on the blade to find a desired angle.
I've been reading many posts so I find I can digest while others. I am not.

I also must add that I'm using a different wet grinding machine as I do have two Tormek T8 anyway but I'm testing this machine while Sharpening above exactly the way we would with the USB above the stone, which is also a 250 MM.
So again, is it possible to use a digital cube or a digital ruler such as the Bosch while rested on the USB and the Stone to find the desired angle and if need be just lower or heighten the usb?

Maybe long-winded but hopefully, I illuminated this correctly.
PS: now if the Calculator works for some of you fine that's great. I'd rather not hear that's not complicate things or what have you because really I'm not complicated things. I'm trying to eliminate Steps if there are any by using one object or two objects or another object to even verify that I'm on the right path with the method I'm using just like an academics. Thank you, thank you thank you Phil.

Just to add my pennies worth. I think Bess scores in the range of 150 (130/140/150/160/170) indicate that the burr has not been completely removed.

Although this may be the case in some instances, but for me, there have been times that I'm finishing off with the above numbers, but still running the knife through my microscope and it clearly shows no burr is present.

But right, but I also must add like the gentleman in Australia Baz who uses a kangaroo tail as the end process. I too can definitely drop the numbers by 30 or 40 points by carefully maintaining an angle and stropping the tail up and down wow glued to a 2 inch piece of hardwood.

How did u make to white plastic cup?

Mr Zumanity. I may be missing something and my apologies if I am but does the long bolt have threads on the top end eventually in your creation?

Also, if I may add trying a variable speed 1" x 30" machine may be helpful. A machine such as a Toolker with a servo motor. Options it's nice always to have options. Then you can add on a modified angle guide apparatus to consistently set your angles.

There are many YouTube videos of such modifications to the angle guides.

If I may suggest, in my minimal experience, instead of the felt or slotted paper wheel, as your final step, try a hanging strop made from kangaroo tail.
But damn 50 or 60 on the Bess scale pack your yourself on the back. Digest it and say to yourself, damn am I good 

Interesting isn't it

Wow, isn't that rewarding. For all parties involved way to go. Besides let's not forget you've created some amazing memories that will not be forgotten for all parties.

Beautifully done

Hi Rick. Thanks for your reply.
...snip...
So maybe give more detail on your process for mainstream knives involving the rock hard felt wheel?
Describing pressure, number of passes etc?
In advance, thank you.

Sir Amwell,

I have not been ignoring you request, just had to get through some stuff to were I could think more clearly.  I'm not sure that has helped much, however, as I'm not sure how much I can say about my process that will inform much. 

I use a sequence of CBN/diamond wheels, 180 CBN, DC, DF, DE.  I start at the heel and move to the tip, mostly lifting.  I DO go back the other way often.  Pressure is light to moderate at most.  I take as many passes on the CBN as it takes to raise a burr from both sides.  Sometimes there are portions, mainly in the middle that take longer to raise a burr, but I work nearly all the length across the non-curved portion.  Once the burr has been raised, it doesn't take but a pass or two on the DC, DF and DE wheels to refine the edge.  I use black marker on EVERY edge, EVERY wheel change.  In part as this helps me know when I've ground enough with each wheel, as well as checking the burr under mangification often.  I use the Kingmas 60X hand microscope for that. 

Then it is to the SJ wheel, at the same angle as the previous wheels.  For angle setting, I use only the distance from the USB to the wheel surface, using one of CB's calculators, calipers and a rubber band stretch from the USB to the axle shaft.  Sometimes I have to remove the nut to expose enough shaft to hold the rubber band.  Again, use black marker and again only a couple passes, pressure is about the same as with the others.  All of this is done edge-leading from the rear USB, while sitting in front of the T8.

Honing is done edge-trailing on the rock hard felt wheel, using 1µ diamond paste, applied sparingly and spread out as evenly as possible.  Angle is set 1-2º higher than the grinding angle, again using the distance to the wheel, rubber band, calculator and calipers.  I think I use more pressure in this operation but only a couple passes.  Final strop on a hanging leather (kangaroo tail, from Vadim) strop.  Angle is fairly flat, so lower than honing or grinding, I believe. 

A long time ago, when I was doing BESS testing, the best I could do was around 90 BESS, but was consistently around 100-110. 

Hope this helps,

Rick

Wow Sir, what an amazing clear and concise procedure. Simply wow!

I'd like to thank you and others. You guys and gals if you're will, are teaching me beyond to what l can express. Every time I come on board and read all your posts it just leaves me in ah. No patronizing here with my post. I am just so grateful to have an outlet such as this to learn from.

Thank you thank you

What are the wheels made of?

They look suspiciously like aluminium oxide

You may be right, sir. I emailed the gentleman in Sweden and asked once I get a response. I'll post it here.

I've tried belt splitters, but it's too much of a headache to prepare them. I guess one can try Rod's, a Dremel with the right tool, but I'm not one that wants to put that time in with these kinds of processes.

Below is a gentleman online and his name is Ryan. Specifically this wheel can be run on Tormek T8 with water cooled and used for steak knives. Not for bread knives as it doesn't do the opposite and sharpening the scallops of a bread knife. Apparently it's the first of its kind whereas it's a self directing diamond plated wheel as we know most are run dry or at least the ones available that I've researched. Apparently they've been taking pre-orders.   I bought one of the Apex machines from cuttermasters.com. This company is in Canada, but they do have a US facility as well.
So due to the fact that self directing, one can put new serrations on any knife to make it look like a steak knife. Again because bread knives have scallops on the opposite side, and this is a self directing wheel this can only be utilized for steak knives.
Anyway, long story short this is all about options. I thought I'd just put this out there.

https://youtu.be/MZmHY0N8QFs?si=2MCulR7yzM4kRoye

I thought I'd edit this as I'm so prone to doing lol. This machine below is amazing with the ability to put a 2 x 42" belt over top these two diamond resin wheels.. I mentioned this unit because there's also a jig that we can utilize to drill holes to run our Tormek wheels with this machine as well. But it's mentioned within the site of the seller to run the Tormek wheels at low speeds. These diamond resin wheels are rated at 25,000 sharpens. This machine is a workhorse. I have yet to prep my Tormek wheels onto this unit. I haven't had to these resin wheels in my opinion are killer.
Talk about quick passes. Unless I have the 100 grit and right the 1000 grit.
So again, options options. I hope this is appropriate. I guess it would be because one can utilize Tormek wheels.  Unfortunately, they're not cheap. But the owner Jeff is one of the most knowledgable that I have certainly meant in the arena of night sharpening. He is the owner of these machines and his R&D is impeccable. Also one quick note he also sells many many different machines for different applications.
I think in the US it's known as Toycen.
Anyway, ladies and gentlemen, enjoy.
Ciao for now, Flippo

https://youtu.be/0xLM_3W7vuA?si=SL09nzcB4nq6eHYs

Why in the world would anyone use any wheel dry on a Tormek?

There seem to be a number of professional knife sharpeners on YouTube that do.

The only reason Paul is using no water on this Wood Turners Wonder's wheels because it voids their warranty. But there are many manufacturers out there, while I shouldn't say many there are with Metal core wheels that are CBN that Claim that can be run in water and no solution needed either. Now I know Paul has used Honright and the Tormek's solution in many of his videos as well.

Me, I have never run my CBN's dry

I recently got a grinder used to sharpen a chainsaw's saw chains.  The grinding wheels used to sharpen the cutters are thin and rounded on the edge.



The two sizes most typically used are 1/8" and 3/16" wide.  They are only 5" in diameter, so I don't think they would work on the Tormek, but possibly they would work on a different style grinder and grind them by hand.

These are available as traditional grindstones (many types), CBN, & diamond.

So to understand more clearly, please, are you using these wheels that are more so meant for chainsaws, and that can be used on let's say a Buck-tool 1750 RPM machine, to sharpen serrated knives?
And if so, naturally, one would have to get two sizes to accommodate the different widths of the scallops. Correct?
Thank you in advance, sir