Messages

How did u make to white plastic cup?

Mr Zumanity. I may be missing something and my apologies if I am but does the long bolt have threads on the top end eventually in your creation?

Also, if I may add trying a variable speed 1" x 30" machine may be helpful. A machine such as a Toolker with a servo motor. Options it's nice always to have options. Then you can add on a modified angle guide apparatus to consistently set your angles.

There are many YouTube videos of such modifications to the angle guides.

If I may suggest, in my minimal experience, instead of the felt or slotted paper wheel, as your final step, try a hanging strop made from kangaroo tail.
But damn 50 or 60 on the Bess scale pack your yourself on the back. Digest it and say to yourself, damn am I good 

Interesting isn't it

Wow, isn't that rewarding. For all parties involved way to go. Besides let's not forget you've created some amazing memories that will not be forgotten for all parties.

Beautifully done

Hi Rick. Thanks for your reply.
...snip...
So maybe give more detail on your process for mainstream knives involving the rock hard felt wheel?
Describing pressure, number of passes etc?
In advance, thank you.

Sir Amwell,

I have not been ignoring you request, just had to get through some stuff to were I could think more clearly.  I'm not sure that has helped much, however, as I'm not sure how much I can say about my process that will inform much. 

I use a sequence of CBN/diamond wheels, 180 CBN, DC, DF, DE.  I start at the heel and move to the tip, mostly lifting.  I DO go back the other way often.  Pressure is light to moderate at most.  I take as many passes on the CBN as it takes to raise a burr from both sides.  Sometimes there are portions, mainly in the middle that take longer to raise a burr, but I work nearly all the length across the non-curved portion.  Once the burr has been raised, it doesn't take but a pass or two on the DC, DF and DE wheels to refine the edge.  I use black marker on EVERY edge, EVERY wheel change.  In part as this helps me know when I've ground enough with each wheel, as well as checking the burr under mangification often.  I use the Kingmas 60X hand microscope for that. 

Then it is to the SJ wheel, at the same angle as the previous wheels.  For angle setting, I use only the distance from the USB to the wheel surface, using one of CB's calculators, calipers and a rubber band stretch from the USB to the axle shaft.  Sometimes I have to remove the nut to expose enough shaft to hold the rubber band.  Again, use black marker and again only a couple passes, pressure is about the same as with the others.  All of this is done edge-leading from the rear USB, while sitting in front of the T8.

Honing is done edge-trailing on the rock hard felt wheel, using 1µ diamond paste, applied sparingly and spread out as evenly as possible.  Angle is set 1-2º higher than the grinding angle, again using the distance to the wheel, rubber band, calculator and calipers.  I think I use more pressure in this operation but only a couple passes.  Final strop on a hanging leather (kangaroo tail, from Vadim) strop.  Angle is fairly flat, so lower than honing or grinding, I believe. 

A long time ago, when I was doing BESS testing, the best I could do was around 90 BESS, but was consistently around 100-110. 

Hope this helps,

Rick

Wow Sir, what an amazing clear and concise procedure. Simply wow!

I'd like to thank you and others. You guys and gals if you're will, are teaching me beyond to what l can express. Every time I come on board and read all your posts it just leaves me in ah. No patronizing here with my post. I am just so grateful to have an outlet such as this to learn from.

Thank you thank you

What are the wheels made of?

They look suspiciously like aluminium oxide

You may be right, sir. I emailed the gentleman in Sweden and asked once I get a response. I'll post it here.

I've tried belt splitters, but it's too much of a headache to prepare them. I guess one can try Rod's, a Dremel with the right tool, but I'm not one that wants to put that time in with these kinds of processes.

Below is a gentleman online and his name is Ryan. Specifically this wheel can be run on Tormek T8 with water cooled and used for steak knives. Not for bread knives as it doesn't do the opposite and sharpening the scallops of a bread knife. Apparently it's the first of its kind whereas it's a self directing diamond plated wheel as we know most are run dry or at least the ones available that I've researched. Apparently they've been taking pre-orders.   I bought one of the Apex machines from cuttermasters.com. This company is in Canada, but they do have a US facility as well.
So due to the fact that self directing, one can put new serrations on any knife to make it look like a steak knife. Again because bread knives have scallops on the opposite side, and this is a self directing wheel this can only be utilized for steak knives.
Anyway, long story short this is all about options. I thought I'd just put this out there.

https://youtu.be/MZmHY0N8QFs?si=2MCulR7yzM4kRoye

I thought I'd edit this as I'm so prone to doing lol. This machine below is amazing with the ability to put a 2 x 42" belt over top these two diamond resin wheels.. I mentioned this unit because there's also a jig that we can utilize to drill holes to run our Tormek wheels with this machine as well. But it's mentioned within the site of the seller to run the Tormek wheels at low speeds. These diamond resin wheels are rated at 25,000 sharpens. This machine is a workhorse. I have yet to prep my Tormek wheels onto this unit. I haven't had to these resin wheels in my opinion are killer.
Talk about quick passes. Unless I have the 100 grit and right the 1000 grit.
So again, options options. I hope this is appropriate. I guess it would be because one can utilize Tormek wheels.  Unfortunately, they're not cheap. But the owner Jeff is one of the most knowledgable that I have certainly meant in the arena of night sharpening. He is the owner of these machines and his R&D is impeccable. Also one quick note he also sells many many different machines for different applications.
I think in the US it's known as Toycen.
Anyway, ladies and gentlemen, enjoy.
Ciao for now, Flippo

https://youtu.be/0xLM_3W7vuA?si=SL09nzcB4nq6eHYs

Why in the world would anyone use any wheel dry on a Tormek?

There seem to be a number of professional knife sharpeners on YouTube that do.

The only reason Paul is using no water on this Wood Turners Wonder's wheels because it voids their warranty. But there are many manufacturers out there, while I shouldn't say many there are with Metal core wheels that are CBN that Claim that can be run in water and no solution needed either. Now I know Paul has used Honright and the Tormek's solution in many of his videos as well.

Me, I have never run my CBN's dry

I recently got a grinder used to sharpen a chainsaw's saw chains.  The grinding wheels used to sharpen the cutters are thin and rounded on the edge.



The two sizes most typically used are 1/8" and 3/16" wide.  They are only 5" in diameter, so I don't think they would work on the Tormek, but possibly they would work on a different style grinder and grind them by hand.

These are available as traditional grindstones (many types), CBN, & diamond.

So to understand more clearly, please, are you using these wheels that are more so meant for chainsaws, and that can be used on let's say a Buck-tool 1750 RPM machine, to sharpen serrated knives?
And if so, naturally, one would have to get two sizes to accommodate the different widths of the scallops. Correct?
Thank you in advance, sir

So until now I've been getting by on bread knife sharpening by ... not really sharpening, but by using the SchleifJunkies' "leather wheel for serrations" and the edge of a belt to strop serrations.  I was using 1 micron diamond on the wheel and PA-70 on the belt.  Worked okay, but not really satisfactory for a dull knife.

This morning I leveled it up, using 20 micron diamond on the wheel, and I'm pretty happy with the result!  I was sharpening a Mercer bread knife with roughly 1/4" serrations.  Before sharpening, it measured at around 300 BESS.

I did 3-4 passes on the bevel side at the measured edge angle (25°) and then stropped on the edge of a leather belt with PA-70.  That got my BESS reading down to 110-125g, which to me is more than acceptable for a bread knife.

Now, I don't know how it would work with a really dull knife, and it's obviously not going to restore a knife with rounded points, but that's a topic for another day.

https://schleifjunkies.de/en/product/leather-wheel-for-serrated-edge/

What do you mean by the belt?

Garrett,

I saw what I believe is the same wheel for sharpening serrated wheels on facebook. It is actually a Slipakniven product, not Tormek. I don't know anything about it, although I have had success with the few peoducts I have ordered from ẞlipakniven.com.

Yes, I saw that but he's out of stock. So is Curry's Custom Cutlery Cliff the owner his are out of stock as well. He's out of Hawaii. He has quarter inch, half inch, and 1 inch diamond wheels that are 6 inches in diameter can be run on a Buck tool 1750rpm machine.

Ken

Ken I too, would've liked to see a little more input concerning the SB.
Yesterday I tried to revive an old HSS neat clever by first using these resin bonded wheels that are 100g and 1000 grit. Then deburring on a Scotch-Brite wheel, followed by a flappy leather wheel and got nowhere to a consistent, smooth edge. This was all due I think more so in the way I had the latest knife jig in place on the Cleaver.
Anyway, let's forget about this course of action.

Then I tried CBN wheels in 160, 400 and thousand grit and eventually, this helped give me a cleaner edge, but yet not sharp enough. I mention this clever, original edge from the start was all over the place anyway. And of course, Scotch Bright wheel to remove the burr, followed by the leather wheel coded with blue compound. In the end. It gave me a better edge, but still not sharp enough. Now I wonder, with this being my first cleaver I have ever sharpened thus far and expecting under 90 on the bess scale, That may be a 160 bess marker that I had was adequate enough.

Then I remembered the SB Stone I have that seldom got used. from my understanding this SB Stone is more so used for HSS steels. So there I went first grading it with its lowest grit then of course regrading to the 1000 Which seem to have given me the best in a cleaner edge if you will.
But by that time, I was tired and left it alone with no holding thus far. I'll tackle it later today. But what I want to say is by far the SG gave me better improvements. But I also can't say that it did it on its own because I did two processes prior to the SV scenario. Anyway, what am I saying I don't know quite honestly. But I agree with you. I don't see much input, feedback, talk around the usage of the SB. That's the price of potatoes for me today from a still learning recipient of this fine community.

Thank you, Ken

this is interesting now as I was once told by a dealer that sells Tormek in Canada that the Japanese wheel and the original wheel can be run in normal tapwater. So am I understanding correctly they should be running in ACC solution as well?

Hello Baker,

thanks for your info and the link (R.I.P. Vadim)!

There would also be the possibility of ordering an "Extra Hard" (approx. 0.68 - 0.72) DM 250x30mm.

https://www.mototechnica-shop.de/Filzscheibe-

Filzpolierscheibe-Filzrad-Filzscheibe-Filzpolierscheibe-30mm-breit-sehr-hart-glatt--30-mm-breit--Durchmesser-waehlbar-Glanzpolieren-Polierfilz.html

also, that link, I can't see where one can translate it to English for starters.

phil