this is interesting now as I was once told by a dealer that sells Tormek in Canada that the Japanese wheel and the original wheel can be run in normal tapwater. So am I understanding correctly they should be running in ACC solution as well?
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Show posts MenuQuote from: Thomas S. on February 20, 2022, 07:48:08 PMHello Baker,
thanks for your info and the link (R.I.P. Vadim)!
There would also be the possibility of ordering an "Extra Hard" (approx. 0.68 - 0.72) DM 250x30mm.
https://www.mototechnica-shop.de/Filzscheibe-
Filzpolierscheibe-Filzrad-Filzscheibe-Filzpolierscheibe-30mm-breit-sehr-hart-glatt--30-mm-breit--Durchmesser-waehlbar-Glanzpolieren-Polierfilz.html
also, that link, I can't see where one can translate it to English for starters.
phil
Quote from: Pietje on February 20, 2022, 11:08:09 AMHello!
A s I understand, Durofelt has a problem.
There is no problem with the 250 rockhardhttps://www.mototechnica-shop.de/Schnaeppchen-Fehlserie-Abweichung-einige-mm-Filzscheibe-Grat-Entfernen-Messer-und-Polieren--leichte-Massabweichung---Farbdivergenzen-rockhart-250-x-30.html
There is alsoQuotehttps://schleifjunkies.deInternational sending
So long
Pietje
Quote from: 3D Anvil on August 14, 2024, 03:05:24 PMQuote from: Columbo on August 11, 2024, 09:40:05 PMI've read somewhere on a forum that when running to CBN wheels at one time on a tarmac that the machine definitely slows down almost to a crawled rotation. As if the T8 does not have enough torque to spin to heavyweight wheels. Although there have been others who have stated, while having a diamond wheel on the left and the lesser weighted spartan plastic core wheel on the right that there was no issue with slowness of spin.This is almost certainly caused by water dripping onto the rubber drive wheel, rather than a lack of sufficient motor torque. If the drive wheel gets wet, it causes the drive shaft to slip, which seems like a torque issue if you don't understand what's happened. I use a 3D printed guard over the drive wheel to minimize the issue, but it still happens occasionally. Then it's just a matter of drying off the wheel with a rag or paper towel.
Hanns has stated to me that this will not be an issue when running to CBNs on one T8 with the extended bolt at one time.
Quote from: cbwx34 on August 06, 2024, 07:25:07 PMQuote from: JohnBb on August 06, 2024, 06:21:36 PMUS-430 is fine, but what about an US-900? With this bad boy Tormek can be used even as a sword sharpening machine
Or...
Quote from: RickKrung on July 28, 2024, 03:56:50 PMCan you measure the difference, say with a caliper or indicator? Is it consistent?
Does it happen with just the vertical USB or also with the horizontal and/or the horzizontal/MB-102 when used as an Frontal Vertical Base? If so, is the movement in the same direction, that is, is the effect on the projection distance the same?
I wonder if this movement when tightening the screws is caused by a ridge or burr (unevenness/not flat) on the end of the screws.
I suspect these screws are produces with what is called "rolling" the threads. That is, the die that forms the threads uses pressure to create the threads by rolling over the screw shaft. (In the past, thread were "cut" by using threading dies.) This rolling process pushes material off the end of the screw, leaving a bit of a divot or crater in the middle. It is typically uneven, being higher on one side or another.
This burr will often leave marks and/or burrs on the surface against which the screw tightens. It is easy to remove and make the end of the screw flat and uniform by filing or grinding. I do this sometimes when I want the end of the screw to be flat and not marr the tightened surface. This is common when set screws are tightened on shafts, making it difficult to remove the shafts. Set screws are actually produced with this "cupped" end as a means to make the grip better. Set screws are also available with flat ends so that they no not marr the surfaces.
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