Messages

Resolution:
   Using the TTS-100 to obtain a repeatable distance from wheel.
    Trial and error (black marker) to set the extension from the jig
    Check the blade is right to the jig
    For this chisel, record the distance from the jig edge.
JD.

Quote cut.
Rick

Interesting Rick. Though I've little knowledge and less interest in metal machining.
I'd not thought of outsourced 3D - though the 10 would be a bit irksome when one wanted :-)
  I'm curious about the finished item.
Tks for the response.

1. File off those (pointless?) marks atop the edge of the jig

That mark is for centering a plane blade in order to apply a symetrical curve on the iron.

John is absolutely correct. Far from being pointless, the line on the front of the SE-77 is what allows centering the plane blade for balanced cambering. Controlled cambering is what separates a cabinetmaker from an average woodworker.

Those who do not understand cambering should just ignore the line, preserving it for the day when they do understand it.

Ken

which could be an indentation rather than a protrusion?
Without that, I can use that surface to ensure the chisel is at right angles to the jig.

The 3D-printed jig I outlined works the same way your board does for setting the protrusion of the chisel beyond the SE-77 jig.   And, as Ken noted, the TTS-100 is used to set the USB distance to the stone to a standard. 

This approach handles 3 angles:  20°, 25°, & 30°.  I think those work well for the majority of chisels. 

Noted Rich: TTS-100 on order. Cost of my board? Nil. Cost of a 3D printer? No contest.
I'll report back on how well they work together.

Tweaks to the straight jig (SE77).
1. File off those (pointless?) marks atop the edge of the jig
2. Piece of ply to mark extensions for different chisels.
3. Use a square to *check* the chisel is square to the jig.
 - Combined with TTS-100, hopefully ease repeat setup.
Thanks for the suggestions.

Sigh. 3 pics taken to demonstrate - each one too big.
Shrunk to 800px. Hope the intent is clear.

Thanks, worth a try.

You are correct; the manual only shows the TTS-100 for turning gouges. That is unfortunate, as the TTS-100 has several more uses. My suggestion is based on my actual working method for more than ten years. Try it; you will find it works well. No marking is needed beyond the one initial mark, done only once. The patented two metal wheels automatically correct for wheel wear. Used this way, the angles are accurate and consistent.

I don'tknow why Tormek does not show other uses for the TTS-100.

Ken

Thanks Ken. I'm now confused... Do you mean to set the 'universal rest' as well as the projection
of the chisel in the tts-100, then use the SE-77 to hone the chisel?
  Or to use the TTS-100 to hone it?
Or just use the 'extension' part of the TTS-100 (which would be easy to make).

  Helping a neighbour. Tried to sharpen a 10" knife, max 1" depth. Bit of a curve too.
My t4 was scraping the edge of the blade by the time I got to the tip.
Not sure if this was / is possible.
  Gave up in the end and used a t-2 which worked well.

Horses for courses?

ormek TTS-100.

The TTS-100 is shown as for turning gouges?
Manual Shows this?
  Not applicable to flat chisels?

OK, I'm lazy.
I'd like to slip the chisel into the holder, SE-77 Square Edge Jig,
and know it was (near as ...) set for 25 or 30 degrees.
  Yes, it would need checking over the years, but ...
question: How to 'scratch' / mark a chisel against the jig?
Has anyone done this successfully please?

What is the difference in height, from your elbow to the base of the Tormek?
That should give an indication of the seat height vs 'bench' (stool, box, whatever) in use?
  Just a thought.