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Great numbers, thanks for the website link, Ive started reading it. I know exactly how important it is to remove the burr because I havent managed to do it yet using my T8. I bought a Spiderco Endura 4 in K390 just because I read it was easy to de-burr, Ive had to grind stop down as the point of the blade was sticking out when closed due to me shapening so much, I think I aged the knife about 10 years  So ive dropped down another rabbit hole and purchased a Work Sharp Pro Elite system and now Im getting these numbers, Ive been experimenting with diamond strop compounds and I think Stroppy Stuff is great.

I also like K390 a lot. 👍



Speaking of Stroppy Stuff, he has a great video about checking, deburring and verifying with BESS at every step along the way, using a K390 Delica. You may have seen it?

It opened my eyes at the time. Not specifically Tormek related, but many of these techniques are easy and useful to incorporate. The deburring principles are universal and also applies to the Tormek.

Yes I am convinced that you still have a burr at 200 BESS.

I started to test my edges after I read Vadim's opinion about lingering burrs over 100 BESS. In my experience he was spot on.

I also like and use his very simple Rizla cigarette paper cutting test to detect a burr. In my experience, if a fresh edge (finished at 1000+ grit and stropped to remove the burr) does not cleanly slice thin Rizla paper from heel to tip, I know I still have a burr. This burr is small enough that I cannot see it under bright light or feel it. A sub-1000 grit edge or even a tiny burr does not cut Rizla paper cleanly.





I sharpened the Umnumzaan above on the Edge Pro, but the Tormek is no slouch... At the moment I feel I can get sharper edges with the diamond wheels than the SG. This was on the DE-250 diamond wheel and stropped.



I was always a "coarse/toothy edge" kinda guy, until I read this article. These incredible micrographs made me more aware of persistent burrs, and made me pay much more attention to deburring. This whole site is a gold mine of knowledge.

https://scienceofsharp.com/2024/02/03/seven-misconceptions-about-knife-burrs/

Impressive setup @MikeK !

I converted a cheap warehouse shelving workbench in my garage into a sharpening station. I lowered the benchtop to comfortably stand upright when sharpening. A wooden frame with pegs store the wheels for quick and easy access and drying. No more awkward stacking of heavy and fragile wheels with no place to unstack them. The wheel you need is always at the bottom! I keep the jig kits on the shelf below the machine. The most used jigs live in a small metal tool box.

I can confirm, T4 could be used as a dedicated deburring station with 250 mm Rockhard felt wheel. The wheel fits well without any modifications.

Nice setup! 👍

The spray can I bought was CRC This stuff https://crcindustries.com.au/crc-belt-grip-400g-3081/

Good suggestion, thank you!

I'm finding that the angle shifts half a degree or so after tightening, even when I try to apply pressure to the USB when measuring.

I noticed the same thing, due to the USB slop as mentioned. +-0.3 deg accuracy is probably a realistic expectation in my opinion. This is perfectly acceptable for my purposes, for honing ever so slightly steeper than the bevel at a fixed angle.

The KS-123 is accurate enough to detect the need to re-adjust the USB when moving between the composite and leather honing wheels. They only differ a few mm's in diameter. Not that I necessarily use that progression, but I noticed it while playing around earlier this week.

First post, and I thought I'd introduce myself. My name is Hans, and I live in a quiet little town outside Melbourne, Australia.

Nice to see another Australian here. I am south of Adelaide. Welcome to the forum.

Thank you John! I noticed quite a few Australians on the forum, more than I expected at first.

I initially discovered "Knife Grinders Australia" on Youtube, which led me down the Tormek rabbit hole. I was shocked to learn that Dr Vadim Kraichuk passed away relatively recently. He knew a lot and did not mind to share his considerable knowledge and experience.

Here's how I do it and my thoughts.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. 👍

I am curious, in your case as someone who sharpens at scale, what are you thoughts on diamond or CBN wheels? Do you get better or more consistent results on those? Do you prefer to use the SG instead?

Mine arrived today, also from Wood Tamer.

Hi there everyone!

First post, and I thought I'd introduce myself. My name is Hans, and I live in a quiet little town outside Melbourne, Australia.

I've been pretty much obsessed with pocket knives since my dad gave me my first SAK Classic at 8. MacGyver scarred me for life (in a good way), and I've carried a knife daily as an extension of my person since early adulthood.

I have a collection of pocket knives that is much larger than it should be... I love Spyderco for their offering of exotic and high carbide steels. My go-to sharpening system is (was?) an Edge Pro Apex, which I bought new about 10 years ago, and upgraded over time with diamond stones and all the other fruit.

I bought a T8 Black recently, because it was such a compelling package with the diamond wheel. I am still getting the hang of this machine, but I am getting proficient and I've been pleased with my last few reprofiling efforts.

My most recent aquisition was the newly released Knife Angle Setter KS-123, which landed on my doorstep this morning!

I am glad to have discovered such a large Tormek community here. It seems like a literal gold mine of knowledge and wisdom!





Best regards