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I would like more info on the resin bonded diamond wheels.
Which supplier are they available from?

I use 5 and 6-inch Victorinox boning knives and 8 and 10-inch breaking knives which are quite a bit wider than the boning knives.
I have a setup with a block and a measuring ruler and Most knives can handle the 125 mm protrusion.
I just put the knife in the kj 45 jig and before I tighten it up I push it against the block to get a consistent 125 mm protrusion and push down on the jaws so it can't move and tighten up the screw.
I usually do anywhere from 10 to 30 knives at a time this way and its fast and repeatable.
The only issue I've had is on the thicker victory knives but it can also work on them

When I test my edges with the 8 lb fishing line like in the video by Vadim I can't see the little dent in the apex from the wire edge. Even looking at it with the kingmas scope it looks smooth.
That makes me wonder if I have properly deburred but am rounding the edge somehow in my protocol

Thanks for the replies.
This is what confusing to me. I have followed Vadims protocols to the letter for the victorinox knives.
Sharpen at 15 dps with SG250 or 400 CBN wheel
Hone on leather with tormek paste or autosol at the same angle using fvb and cal cap for 3 to 4 heavy Passes per side.
Then I use a felt wheel .65 density with 1 micron diamond spray at +2 degrees 3 passes per side which I have tried very lightly and also harder with limited success.
For finishing I use a second leather wheel with a green honing bar from Lee Valley at an exact angle for 1 pass.
Seems like it should work well but I just haven't been able to get the sub 100 bess.
I must be missing something small in my protocol but can't figure out what it is

After sharpening about 200 knives and also using them in a fast paced meat processing setting I still haven't reached or even gotten near my sharpening goals of below 100 bess. I have tried everything I have read about but I just can't reach below 140 bess on a the 15 dps knives. The edges cut really great for the first hour but then they need a lot of steeling to keep cutting well. I find i cant use the polished steel for very long because it doesnt have much of an effect on the edge. I was hoping to have better edge retention after reading Vadims research but still haven't made it there. On the plus side my edges are very consistent at the middle and tip of the knife which is very important on a boning knife and also I find it easy to sharpen with the Tormek

Thanks for the reply.
It says on the Wood turners website that the wheels are not designed for use with water unless dried off completely right away.
Are all CBN wheels like this and has anyone tried these?

Does anyone know of a good supplier for the .25 micron poly diamond spray for the leather wheel, and the 1 micron monocrystaline diamond spray for the felt wheel? they seem to not be available in alchahol based forms.
Also looking for a cbn wheel supplier in North America as my SG wheel is getting fairly small.

Can you please post a link to this video?
For some reason, I cant open this.
Thanks

Thanks for the replies, everyone.
I found a couple of kangaroo tails from my leather braiding days so I'm experimenting with stropping on the hanging leather.
I don't see much better bess results but I will keep trying to get it better.
I find it interesting on the last page of Vadim's knife deburring book where he talks about using the composite honing wheel and then the cleanup step and still reaching 85 bess.
That might be something I will try in the future just to have fewer steps.
I also bought a used second machine that has a reversible rotation which would be a really handy feature on the Tormek T8

I have a question about the felt deburring.
I use the rock hard felt wheel at .65 density from piriui polishing in China loaded with a 1 micron diamond paste which I'm not sure is penetrating into the felt. I deburr 3 passes lightly at +2 dps setting the angle with the cal cap calculator.
after high angle honing the bess score is consistently at 160 to 145 bess.
Does this mean the wire burr has not been removed properly and if thats the case what can I do to improve the process?

I'm wondering based on what Wootz talks about in his deburring book if I can get a bit of a "toothier edge" for lack of a better term by grinding at 400 grit, then do initial deburring with a 5 to 6-micron compound such as auto sol and then remove the root of the burr by using rock hard felt with 1-micron diamonds then the cleanup step with the green chromium bar.
Will this create a "toothier edge" that's still sharp or will all the steps I'm using still make the edge fine?
I'm also questioning whether I'm rounding off the apex slightly and losing a bit of sharpness by using the leather honing wheel for the whole procedure versus the rock-hard felt that I have ordered but not yet tried.
Any thoughts?

I haven't been putting any extra on for a bit which might be why it's not working as well.
Tried that this morning and it worked much better.
Thanks

I use the Tormek T8 with the standard stone graded fine and the leather honing wheel with cal cap angle calculator.
After setting the angle on the knives I remove the burr with the leather honing wheel at the exact angle. this worked well at first but now the honing wheel does not remove the burr at the exact angle or even 1 or 2 degrees higher. Any help on what the problem could be would be greatly appreciated.

What I have been trying is honing edge trailing on the Japanese water stone using the same procedure as on the leather wheel and the edge feels like it has a bit more bite. It seems to work better if I do the last couple of passes really light and I get to around 160 to 200 Bess. I have not yet used these knives all day when cutting meat so not sure how the edge will last as compared to the finer one.I have also gone from 15 dps to 18 dps for the boning knives since it seems like the edge folds over too easy on the 15dps when you are going hard at it deboning

That makes some sense even though I would have thought the finely honed etremely sharp edge would cut better.
I guess I have to figure out a way to make an edge with more "teeth" thats still lasting and durable.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated