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Hi!

If the honing paste was dry in the tube, you'd know it because you wouldn't be able to apply it, and instead of coming out moist and even it would feel like drier crumbs.

If that's not the case, my guess would be maybe you put too much honing compound onto the wheel. In my experience, the smallest amount is enough, and by the time you're done honing your tool it should be all dark from steel residue. No traces of white left.

It was not dry out of the tube, so thats not it then.

Next time ill scrape it of again with the side of a chisel and try again. And apply a thin coating around the entire wheel when the machine is off, instead of trying to squeeze it on while the wheel is spinning.

Hello friends!

I am having some issues getting my new La-120 honing wheels up and running. I used a liberal amount of white mineral oil and then applied the honing compound. But whatever I do, the honing compound seems to only sit on top of the two wheels and dry out really quickly. So the next time I use the wheels and put my tool on the wheel, I just get white dust from the wheel, and the wheel is completely dry.

I have never had these issues on the regular honing wheel. But then I used the oil that came with my machine and a fresh tube of compound. Now I'm using the old tube of compound and the new oil. I am guessing maybe the oil won't penetrate the leather, or the honing compound might have dried out, or both.

Anyone got a suggestion for this issue? May it just be that I've used too little oil?

Sent it now to support, Thanks.

I guess if this stay this way and not get bigger i got nothing to worry about. As it spins, i don't think any of my tools will be affected. Just a bit worrying how it got there in the first place

Hey

I bought the diamond wheel a few months ago, started using it about a month ago, and have not used it much. perhaps three knives, 20 or so chisels, and some drill bits.

Today I noticed this scratch on the middle of the wheel that looks like the diamond layer has been removed. It started as two small dots, which seem to have gotten larger and into this line from just today's use. Not using much pressure, not hitting anything into the stone hard, and not doing any steep or weird angles or anything like this. I've also been moving my tools left and right as you would with the standard stone to not just grind in one place. I'm just wondering if it's normal to get scratches like this or if I should be worried. The wheel wasn't exactly cheap.

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Does your original SG-200 have the same problem now?

No, as ive used the truing tool on it with the bent bar, so i shaped the sg-200 after the bar and it is parallel to the bar, but the stone itself is not perfectly 90 degrees.

But if i used another bar that is perfectly square to true it, i would get the same issue there i would think

For what it's worth, I think that where you hold the bar when you tighten the screws can make a big difference, up to 1.5mm sometimes I reckon.
I always push down on the bar in exactly the same place every time for consistency. Trial and error will find your own individual way of replicating a  level bar every time I think.

I have been pressing down over the micro-adjustment screw/nut everytime, but i don't think that should matter when you have the entire bar loose and just resting on the stone. It looks like the entire top of the bar has a slight curve, bending where the threaded bar is welded on the top bar. Also when i unscrew it and lift it up, its almost like the two bars squeeze together and and give off resistance when lifting up the bar. Like the legs are jaming inside the holes.

But as been said here, ill just get some good pictures and send it to support and see what they have to say

Hello

Long time lurker, but first time poster.

I have had my Tormek T4 for about 2-3 years now, and I've never really had any problems before when using the standard stone that came with it. I've used the truing tool and made the stone parallel with the bar. Recently, I bought a DF200, the diamond wheel, and after that, I started having a lot of problems with chisels. None of them were square after grinding. I was going back and forth and trying to figure out what was wrong. Checking the Se-77 jig over and over with a square,checking the line on the side to see if it was in the right spot, making sure the tool was seated properly and not overtightening the screws, etc. But nothing I did really worked out. Eventually, I had to start with micro-adjustment screws to get the chisels straight.

Then it hit me. Maybe my diamond wheel isn't 100%. So I sat the bar all the way down to the stone and used a flashlight behind me to see if there was a gap, and lo and behold! There was. The bar touches the diamond wheel on the left side of the wheel (the side closest to the motor), but not on the right side; it's an almost 1mm difference. I checked the wheel with three different squares, and the wheel is more or less 100% from every angle. But the bar seems to be out of square. It's a bit hard to put the square on it as it's round, but to the best of my ability, holding it straight, there seems to be a small gap at the top of the bar and square.

Anyone else notice their bar being a bit skewed like this?
What do I do now? Is my only option to buy a new US-103 universal bar?

Alex.